Let's see those FM9 rigs!

bleujazz3 said:
Just a heads-up...

If you choose right-angle low profile XLRs, you'll sacrifice some of your other potential connections (because the right > XLRS eat up back panel real estate). I just use straight low profile XLRs and use TS or TRS connectors for output 3 (floor monitor) and outputs 2 (XLR) for FOH.

I've tried setting up my FM9 numerous ways, and the straight low profile XLRs worked best.
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Helpful thanks! I've seen some with the low profile angled ones, but they may have been the soldered ones that you can rotate. Do you have a specific rec on 2 or 3 foot low straight profile XLR's?
 
DoctorAK said:
Helpful thanks! I've seen some with the low profile angled ones, but they may have been the soldered ones that you can rotate. Do you have a specific rec on 2 or 3 foot low straight profile XLR's?
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I presume that you are connecting to side XLR ports that accept TRS plugs?

Use these to connect TRS plugs with external XLR outputs:

Amazon product ASIN B084T7N156
Use these low profile XLR > TRS cable to connect to the module, or just use the provided cables included with the module.

Amazon product ASIN B06X9MRG4R
 
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DoctorAK said:
Amazon product ASIN B00KCGD74S
Anyone with opinions on Seismic? Like the idea of these, not too low profile though. If I'm on an Temple Duo 34, I don't want the cables sticking too far back towards the end of the board.

Amazon product ASIN B00534NRVW
These look good too and are angled, and maybe wouldn't cramp each other too much?
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As was said, I've tried the right angle low profiles and they block other important connection points. When you modify each of the angles (you physically need to disassemble the right angle jack, turn it in place, and then try to reassemble). It's quite a chore.

The alternative is to use straight angle low profiles mentioned in post #902, or the cables/plugs provided with your Temple Audio module. If you're using ¼" TRS outputs instead of a Temple module, at your Duo ? side, try this:

Amazon product ASIN B07VRFYX8Q
 
bleujazz3 said:
As was said, I've tried the right angle low profiles and they block other important connection points. When you modify each of the angles (you physically need to disassemble the right angle jack, turn it in place, and then try to reassemble). It's quite a chore.

The alternative is to use straight angle low profiles mentioned in post #902, or the cables/plugs provided with your Temple Audio module. If you're using ¼" TRS outputs instead of a Temple module, at your Duo ? side, try this:

Amazon product ASIN B07VRFYX8Q
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Sorry, should have been clearer. Mentioned in another post that I didn't get those Temple pass-thru Modules that come with XLR to TRS cables. I got the 4x 1/4 inch module for instrument and TRS OUT3, and for XLR OUT1 and OUT2 I'm going XLR to neutrik XLR connectors on the Mini Punch Plate modules. I'm going to drill some larger holes in the back of the Temple board to accomodate the XLRs rather than solder my own.

I hear you on the right angle. When I get home I may try some straight XLR's I have around and see how much they stick out the back towards the edge of the board. I have some right angle TS so can maybe even simulate the angled to see if my set of connections will accomodate the right angle.
 
DoctorAK said:
Sorry, should have been clearer. Mentioned in another post that I didn't get those Temple pass-thru Modules that come with XLR to TRS cables. I got the 4x 1/4 inch module for instrument and TRS OUT3, and for XLR OUT1 and OUT2 I'm going XLR to neutrik XLR connectors on the Mini Punch Plate modules. I'm going to drill some larger holes in the back of the Temple board to accomodate the XLRs rather than solder my own.

I hear you on the right angle. When I get home I may try some straight XLR's I have around and see how much they stick out the back towards the edge of the board. I have some right angle TS so can maybe even simulate the angled to see if my set of connections will accomodate the right angle.
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I tried finding XLR to Neutrik XLR on amazon, but could locate only diddly. I did see some Neutrik XLR with 3-point solder posts, but that wasn't what I'd hoped to find.

Could you post a link to the amazon page that contains the XLR > Neutrik XLR?

A simple drill press and fine grit metal file & metal sandpaper to smooth out the edges should make the job easier.

I did the same thing with my IEC power cable on the upper surface next to the FM9's IEC power connection. Connected that to a Furman AC215-A Power Conditioner/Surge Protector underneath, and connected a Temple Audio IEC Power Mini Module to that. The Furman remains switched on at all times, the Temple Audio IEC determines when the Furman is on or not.

Several pieces of electrical tape around the drilled spot edges to prevent cable damage, and that's it...

FTR, the straight angle XLRs is the safest bet, simply because the right angle ones block important ¼" jacks (Output 3, for example). Trust me on this; I've tried numerous way to make the right angles work...unless you find high-profile right angles (which defeats the purpose), it's best to just plug straight in with straight XLRs. The Monoprice ones posted earlier should do the job well.
 
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sick pickle said:
Trio 28 is perfect width for me, but look at all that wasted space :(
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Slide the FM9 back a skosh and add external switches in front of it....
IMG_20220630_212649.jpg
 
unix-guy said:
I've had surprisingly good results from Seismic Audio XLR and TRS cables.
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I ordered the Seismic right angle ones to try. I know I was told to avoid right angles, but I had to give it a shot...if the angling doesn't work for my setup I'll try their colored 3ft ones. Too good a deal to pass up, especially through their website direct with a coupon code.
 
bleujazz3 said:
I tried finding XLR to Neutrik XLR on amazon, but could locate only diddly. I did see some Neutrik XLR with 3-point solder posts, but that wasn't what I'd hoped to find.

Could you post a link to the amazon page that contains the XLR > Neutrik XLR?

A simple drill press and fine grit metal file & metal sandpaper to smooth out the edges should make the job easier.

I did the same thing with my IEC power cable on the upper surface next to the FM9's IEC power connection. Connected that to a Furman AC215-A Power Conditioner/Surge Protector underneath, and connected a Temple Audio IEC Power Mini Module to that. The Furman remains switched on at all times, the Temple Audio IEC determines when the Furman is on or not.

Several pieces of electrical tape around the drilled spot edges to prevent cable damage, and that's it...

FTR, the straight angle XLRs is the safest bet, simply because the right angle ones block important ¼" jacks (Output 3, for example). Trust me on this; I've tried numerous way to make the right angles work...unless you find high-profile right angles (which defeats the purpose), it's best to just plug straight in with straight XLRs. The Monoprice ones posted earlier should do the job well.
Click to expand...
I bought 4 of these to put on the mini module punched plates:

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NA3MDF--neutrik-na3mdf
 
Tremonti said:
So sneaky. I like it. What are the buttons and sliders programmed to do?
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Left to right:
Sliders 1 and 2 do delay-only wetness and Fletcher-Munson compensation.

Purple switches are momentary and latching CC switches, most often both assigned to Rotary speed.

Next 3 are in the 3 pedal jacks from the FM9, and do momentary Delay Runaway, and usually Amp #2 Channel Toggles A/B and C/B.

Last 2 do momentary Modulation Accent (usually a panning, triggered flange) and Tap Tempo.
 
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