Let's see those FM3 rigs!

Chad Beattie said:
Finally done. 1/8 ABS plastic on underside to better fill the space between FM3 / EV-2 and board. Feet don’t touch so could have used thinner material. This process uses twice as much dual lock but it’s not moving! I probably could have stuck the plastic to the FM3 / EV-2 some other way and saved on dual lock. Oh well.

Next, mounted two switches directly to board. That was fun. The NUX is solid. Drilled out the holes and then also had to use a grinder to remove metal support from the back side. Then hit with flat black paint. Provides a lot more clearance and feet won’t accidentally hit buttons when using the pedal.
Click to expand...
Very clever incorporating the switches into the pedalboard like you did.
 
Chad Beattie said:
Finally done. 1/8 ABS plastic on underside to better fill the space between FM3 / EV-2 and board. Feet don’t touch so could have used thinner material. This process uses twice as much dual lock but it’s not moving! I probably could have stuck the plastic to the FM3 / EV-2 some other way and saved on dual lock. Oh well.

Next, mounted two switches directly to board. That was fun. The NUX is solid. Drilled out the holes and then also had to use a grinder to remove metal support from the back side. Then hit with flat black paint. Provides a lot more clearance and feet won’t accidentally hit buttons when using the pedal.

View attachment 67114View attachment 67115View attachment 67116View attachment 67117View attachment 67118View attachment 67119
Click to expand...
Nicely done!
 
Chad Beattie said:
Finally done. 1/8 ABS plastic on underside to better fill the space between FM3 / EV-2 and board. Feet don’t touch so could have used thinner material. This process uses twice as much dual lock but it’s not moving! I probably could have stuck the plastic to the FM3 / EV-2 some other way and saved on dual lock. Oh well.

Next, mounted two switches directly to board. That was fun. The NUX is solid. Drilled out the holes and then also had to use a grinder to remove metal support from the back side. Then hit with flat black paint. Provides a lot more clearance and feet won’t accidentally hit buttons when using the pedal.

View attachment 67114View attachment 67115View attachment 67116View attachment 67117View attachment 67118View attachment 67119
Click to expand...
Thinking of incorporating the switches in a panel cut for the upper level like previously shown. Think the panel will be strong enough to support stepping on?
 
marshall2553 said:
Has anyone managed to squeeze an FM3, EV2 and a Shure GLXD16 receiver onto a Temple Audio Duo 17? I made a cardboard template using the board’s dimensions and it looks like they would just barely fit. It would be great if didn’t have to step up to the 24, which would be way bigger than I need.
Click to expand...
To answer my own question, yes this is possible with a little creativity. Here's the board I just put together: FM3, EV2, Shure GLXD16 and a Pedal Power 2+ on a Temple Audio Duo 17.



 
Chad Beattie said:
Finally done. 1/8 ABS plastic on underside to better fill the space between FM3 / EV-2 and board. Feet don’t touch so could have used thinner material. This process uses twice as much dual lock but it’s not moving! I probably could have stuck the plastic to the FM3 / EV-2 some other way and saved on dual lock. Oh well.

Next, mounted two switches directly to board. That was fun. The NUX is solid. Drilled out the holes and then also had to use a grinder to remove metal support from the back side. Then hit with flat black paint. Provides a lot more clearance and feet won’t accidentally hit buttons when using the pedal.

View attachment 67114View attachment 67115View attachment 67116View attachment 67117View attachment 67118View attachment 67119
Click to expand...
Looks great man!
 
marshall2553 said:
To answer my own question, yes this is possible with a little creativity. Here's the board I just put together: FM3, EV2, Shure GLXD16 and a Pedal Power 2+ on a Temple Audio Duo 17.



Click to expand...

How did you get power cord on the outside coming from to voodoo lab underneath thought that little hole?
 
andihausi said:
looks great! How did you mount it on the pedaltrain, with velcro?
Click to expand...
I used Dual-Lock as it's way stronger. There's just a little piece on all four rubber feet. It's pretty sturdy, I can pick the board up by the FM-3 handles, but you can feel it starting to pull loose. I may take the sides off and put it directly on the FM-3, havent got that far, yet. Trying to decide if I want to try to squeeze a Morningstar controller on there or just get a FC-6 and move up to a Pedaltrain Classic 2 I have laying around. Really want to keep it small, though.

Does anyone know how much (if any) taking the sides off reduces the total width? The Morningstar is going to be really tight as it sits now.
 
jaime136 said:
Trying to decide if I want to try to squeeze a Morningstar controller on there or just get a FC-6 and move up to a Pedaltrain Classic 2 I have laying around. Really want to keep it small, though.
Click to expand...

I‘M in a similar situation. Torn between wanting add items to really ‘kitchen sink’ this thing, or keep it small. I’ve been wrestling with it for a while now, and I think that I’m going to simply go with it the way Fractal designed it and stay modular. If I get an FC-6, I’m going to simply set them on stage with an ev-2 and connect them up. No board. They are built really tough, and would hold up well imo. Also, then I have the option to only bring the FM3 for small gigs/jams & recording without disconnecting it from a board. It’s a struggle. Because I love building boards lol
 
jaime136 said:
I used Dual-Lock as it's way stronger. There's just a little piece on all four rubber feet. It's pretty sturdy, I can pick the board up by the FM-3 handles, but you can feel it starting to pull loose. I may take the sides off and put it directly on the FM-3, havent got that far, yet. Trying to decide if I want to try to squeeze a Morningstar controller on there or just get a FC-6 and move up to a Pedaltrain Classic 2 I have laying around. Really want to keep it small, though.

Does anyone know how much (if any) taking the sides off reduces the total width? The Morningstar is going to be really tight as it sits now.
Click to expand...
Realize that you have to maintain enough room underneath for air flow. There is an air intake at the bottom that you do not want to block.
 
bdrepko said:
Realize that you have to maintain enough room underneath for air flow. There is an air intake at the bottom that you do not want to block.
Click to expand...
Yep, gonna double up the dual lock so it's 4 pieces tall. That should be high enough - it doesn't compress as much as velcro does.
 
Just finished (I hope) this build with 4 stand in switches, wireless guitar, wireless ears, all held in place with Velcro so when I don't need wireless I can grab what I do need. So far I've only programed 2 of the switches (4 functions) Not sure yet what else I'll need or want. Bet I find something though :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0254.jpg
    IMG_0254.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 369
  • IMG_0264.jpg
    IMG_0264.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 412
  • IMG_0275.jpg
    IMG_0275.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 405
marshall2553 said:
I used a Dremel to open the hole up enough to pull the smaller end through.
Click to expand...
You could also cut the power cord to length, and replace the male plug end with a two dollar replacement from Home Depot or Lowe’s. That way you don’t have that bundle of cable wrapped up underneath the pedalboard.
 
PaulZ said:
You could also cut the power cord to length, and replace the male plug end with a two dollar replacement from Home Depot or Lowe’s. That way you don’t have that bundle of cable wrapped up underneath the pedalboard.
Click to expand...
I have a short power cord I’m going to put in there to clean things up, just haven’t gotten to it yet.

I think I’m actually going to pull the Pedal Power out, mount the power supply for the wireless in its place and just run a “Y” power cord to it and the FM3. The Pedal Power is overkill.
 
Last edited:
PaulZ said:
You could also cut the power cord to length, and replace the male plug end with a two dollar replacement from Home Depot or Lowe’s. That way you don’t have that bundle of cable wrapped up underneath the pedalboard.
Click to expand...
That’s what I’ve been wanting to do, but I couldn’t find that male connector anywhere. You sure Home Depot has them?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom