Lead boost - anyone use a drive for this?

tysonlt

Power User
I haven't used my lead scene in a while. Depending whether I'm on clean, crunch, or heavy, it just sounds too different to whatever song we're playing. Lately I've been using a control switch to turn input boost on and enable a +3dB null filter block (with that 'plus' getting more plussed as the night goes on!)

I'm thinking of using another drive block to kick in lead, so it can have 4 channels to match the scenes. Does anyone else have any good strategies?
 
Does anyone else have any good strategies?
I use a Control Switch as well but have a couple more parameters than the Input Boost and dB increase attached. I use the Saturation parameter - On(Ideal) - to add more gain - and turn the Bright Switch off. I also use the Level in the Cab block for the +3 dB boost.

I used to attach the CS to some of the Amp block parameters like Gain and Level, but have run into situations where these needed adjusting for different guitars or when leveling with other presets. Using this method leaves all gain and level controls in the Amp block accessible for adjusting.

In some presets I will use a Drive block, Bypass modifier attached to the Control Switch, if I need more of an EQ tweak to the tone.
 
I use a Control Switch as well but have a couple more parameters than the Input Boost and dB increase attached. I use the Saturation parameter - On(Ideal) - to add more gain - and turn the Bright Switch off. I also use the Level in the Cab block for the +3 dB boost.

I used to attach the CS to some of the Amp block parameters like Gain and Level, but have run into situations where these needed adjusting for different guitars or when leveling with other presets. Using this method leaves all gain and level controls in the Amp block accessible for adjusting.

In some presets I will use a Drive block, Bypass modifier attached to the Control Switch, if I need more of an EQ tweak to the tone.
I never thought of using saturation, and would never have thought of turning the bright switch off - is that to prevent ear-piercing highs?

That sounds pretty comprehensive! I will keep using the CS strategy, as you've said there are so many options to tweak. I would keep it to only switches so that as you say you can still tweak the gain.

Cheers!
 
I like to switch in a drive with the gain set low on a heavy rhythm tone. It sounds like the rhythm tone but with more breakup and sustain. It’s not so abrupt and fits right in. The Heartpedal 11, the new Klon, FET preamp or boost with HV Tube clipping. I like the new Griddle cake too. I was playing around with the Horizon precision drive tonight and I’m liking it.
 
Throw on a micro amp (the one in the drive block) out front for more of everything. Works well irl too.
 
Fiddle around with the input trim, try the saturation switch, boost frequencies in on the pre EQ page in the amp block and, and this may sound silly, try different tonestacks. Some are way more aggressive sounding than others.
 
Great ideas, love the idea of a micro amp! Already dialled in for tonight with 3db filter + amp boost (like before), but I’ll definitely try some of these suggestions next gig - thanks for the input everyone
 
I never thought of using saturation, and would never have thought of turning the bright switch off - is that to prevent ear-piercing highs?

That sounds pretty comprehensive! I will keep using the CS strategy, as you've said there are so many options to tweak. I would keep it to only switches so that as you say you can still tweak the gain.

Cheers!
I typically use the lowest value bright cap setting possible in order to take the 'blanket' off of the tone, so it doesn't really get ear piercing with the boost. Turning the bright switch off shifts the guitars voice a bit back to the midrange for me so the lead tone sounds thicker with the added volume.
 
Nice, I’ll try that. Just got back from a #betagig and used my existing strategy of +3db and boost. I think it was shimmer on about 3. It was a touch piercing but it cut through just fine! I wasn’t really super happy with my sound, was in a rush when I made the preset … it was somehow brittle and too “forward”, I wish there was a standard set of terms for guitar experiences 😆 I might start another thread about that, I have that issue a fair bit but I don’t fully know how to describe it. I’ll post a preset tomorrow.
 
The two ways I've really liked (either alone or both) are a TS in front of the amp (same way I did it with a physical amp) and a neutral/flat boost of a few dB via basically any method that works (CS to turn up the amp, cab, or output level; un-bypass a null filter block; etc.).

I like having both available because they obviously sound different. A TS or Klon works really well for this because they both take off a significant amount of low end (which "eats up" a lot of your headroom) and have enough headroom to boost enough. Depending on how they're set, when you turn it on, you get some headroom back (from driving less bass), which essentially reduces the amp saturation, then boosts into the amp (and adds its own) so the sound doesn't really clean up...and you typically get a level boost from the amp. It kind of "focuses" the saturation you're getting more in the midrange and makes it louder.

The other way I like doing it is turning the amp up louder (more gain) than I need/want it and having my "full on" tone set up for the guitar volume on ~9. If you don't use a treble bleed, that last little bit on the volume pot takes off a significant but not huge amount of high end, and this happens at least a bit even with the tone control(s) down. So, when I need it, there's a small saturation and brightness boost right there on the knob.

Right now, I'm just using the TS and setting my amps hot, as I find those more valuable overall. But, that's also because I'm waiting on some Loopi TRS dual switches to ship from the other side of the world (figured I'd try them before a MIDI/FC controller because they're cheaper and wouldn't require me to buy a new pedalboard).
 
I sometimes have a control switch to turn on a drive block, bypass reverb blocks (I normally run two) and turn on a delay block works great. For some amps I find the volume boost of the drive block can be difficult to juggle, but I normally prefer that over the amp boost feature - because I can add a bit of pedal drive too.

So many ways to do it!

Another thing I've done which is fun, is I have a footswitch which toggles channels on a multiplexor (you could do the same with a control switch toggling bypass) and I run two amp blocks in each scene, one is the normal sound and one is a complimentary sound - maybe more gain, slightly louder, less bass etc. then you just toggle these on one footswitch as you see fit
 
Interesting topic. For a long time, I've basically used Drives in front of an amp, but "wrong." And I suspect I'm not getting out of them what I could if I could figure out a better way to do it.

I have Filter 1 set up to be my Global overall volume boost, so across all presets that use it, I can adjust only that one level and control the amount of volume increase used for leads. This is placed late in the signal chain, after the cab and effects. That makes it really easy to adapt the amount of lead boost to different bands and situations, but still not drive the sound tech nuts.

But that means that the overall input level to that Filter block has to be controlled, too. IOW, with or without the Drive block engaged, the signal out of the Amp block ought to be at the same level perceptually. That usually means turning the level on the Drive block down, meaning that it isn't really boosting the input on an amp that still has some headroom. Which is often the point.

I haven't really figured out a graceful way to have my cake and eat it, too.
 
I haven't used my lead scene in a while. Depending whether I'm on clean, crunch, or heavy, it just sounds too different to whatever song we're playing. Lately I've been using a control switch to turn input boost on and enable a +3dB null filter block (with that 'plus' getting more plussed as the night goes on!)

I'm thinking of using another drive block to kick in lead, so it can have 4 channels to match the scenes. Does anyone else have any good strategies?
+12db Input Boost, and +2.5 db in the output block for my Lead Scene... ( gain whore... ). ;-)
 
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