Is the Matrix GT1000FX still the best Solid State guitar power amp in 2023?

DanielePanza

Inspired
Hi all,

I've come to the conclusion that I very much prefer the FM3 through a power amp and a guitar cab for stage volume. It feels better, and it makes me play better.

At the moment I'm running it through the 6L6 power section of my 5150III into a Zilla 2x12, and it sounds absolutely glorious with high gain amp models that mainly use Pre Amp distortion (I'm keeping the Power Amp modeling OFF), but amps that rely on Power Amp distortion (like an AC30 or a Plexi, etc) only sound good with the Power Amp modeling turned ON, which means I'm running tube power section modeling into a non linear tube power section.

Therefore, I'm considering buying a Solid State power amp in order to deliver FAS' amazing modeling through a cab in the most transparent way.

My questions are:
  • In 2023, is the Matrix GT1000FX still the undefeated king, and is it worth the inflated price tag on the used market, given it's out of stock indefinitely?
  • What are the differences between the UK made Matrix and the US made Matrix Elements versions? I'm in the US, and I see both popping up on Reverb.
  • My Zilla cab is running 2 Celestion Neo Creambacks, totaling 120 watts at 16ohms. Is it the GT1000 too powerful, or am I safe to run it at a reasonable volume, perhaps using one of the stereo outputs rather than mono bridged?
Thank you!
 
I can't answer whether or not it is the best amp or what the differences are between the US / UK models are, but I can answer the third one. So long as you don't turn the volume up too high it will be no problem to run the GT1000FX into a 120W cab. If you're only running one cabinet you may actually want to consider running the amp in bridge mono mode since it only puts out 150W per channel at 16 Ohms in stereo mode. With a solid state amp you want to have a lot of head room to ensure that transient peaks don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid state power amp can blow your speakers in short order. The general rule that I've seen when running a solid state power amplifier is to use one that can put out 2 x the rated power of the cabinets you intend to run. In this case, you'd want the amp to be capable of putting out at least 240W into 16 Ohms. This ensures that you will reach ear splitting volume well before you risk clipping the power amplifier.

Edit: see my post later in this thread. I no longer believe that it is necessary to use an amp with 2x the power of the rated speaker power.
 
Last edited:
I can't answer whether or not it is the best amp or what the differences are between the US / UK models are, but I can answer the third one. So long as you don't turn the volume up too high it will be no problem to run the GT1000FX into a 120W cab. If you're only running one cabinet you may actually want to consider running the amp in bridge mono mode since it only puts out 150W per channel at 16 Ohms in stereo mode. With a solid state amp you want to have a lot of head room to ensure that transient peaks don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid state power amp can blow your speakers in short order. The general rule that I've seen when running a solid state power amplifier is to use one that can put out 2 x the rated power of the cabinets you intend to run. In this case, you'd want the amp to be capable of putting out at least 240W into 16 Ohms. This ensures that you will reach ear splitting volume well before you risk clipping the power amplifier.

Thank you, that's really helpful!
 
Hi all,

I've come to the conclusion that I very much prefer the FM3 through a power amp and a guitar cab for stage volume. It feels better, and it makes me play better.

At the moment I'm running it through the 6L6 power section of my 5150III into a Zilla 2x12, and it sounds absolutely glorious with high gain amp models that mainly use Pre Amp distortion (I'm keeping the Power Amp modeling OFF), but amps that rely on Power Amp distortion (like an AC30 or a Plexi, etc) only sound good with the Power Amp modeling turned ON, which means I'm running tube power section modeling into a non linear tube power section.

Therefore, I'm considering buying a Solid State power amp in order to deliver FAS' amazing modeling through a cab in the most transparent way.

My questions are:
  • In 2023, is the Matrix GT1000FX still the undefeated king, and is it worth the inflated price tag on the used market, given it's out of stock indefinitely?
  • What are the differences between the UK made Matrix and the US made Matrix Elements versions? I'm in the US, and I see both popping up on Reverb.
  • My Zilla cab is running 2 Celestion Neo Creambacks, totaling 120 watts at 16ohms. Is it the GT1000 too powerful, or am I safe to run it at a reasonable volume, perhaps using one of the stereo outputs rather than mono bridged?
Thank you!
I think they are still the ones to buy price wise and build quality wise. I've just bought a 2nd hand one over here the UK to use with a Victory vertical 2x12 that has V30's in it. I wanted a Fryette LXII but there's none available over here at the moment. I might end up buying one at a later date.

From what I've been told there is no difference between the UK or US models, the older models were made of a steel chassis which have grey output knobs. The newer ones have an aluminium chassis and have black output knobs. Apart from that the boards are all the same as I've seen from other forum posts.

16 ohms will give you 150 watts each channel. I hope that helps!

Screenshot 2023-04-20 at 15.56.43.png
 
I love my Powerstage 700 and know of a couple touring acts that use Duncan for stage volume (one of who is extremely picky about tone).

Also, are you using a 50 or 100w EVH? I use my 5153 50w head to power a 4x12 sometimes and find that I prefer power amp modeling ON almost all the time. And that's at upwards of 100db. Granted it's slightly unintuitive but the 5153 50w head's loop is not tube-buffered and seems to work a little better with the Fractal stuff than other FX loops I've tried.
 
I think they are still the ones to buy price wise and build quality wise. I've just bought a 2nd hand one over here the UK to use with a Victory vertical 2x12 that has V30's in it. I wanted a Fryette LXII but there's none available over here at the moment. I might end up buying one at a later date.

From what I've been told there is no difference between the UK or US models, the older models were made of a steel chassis which have grey output knobs. The newer ones have an aluminium chassis and have black output knobs. Apart from that the boards are all the same as I've seen from other forum posts.

16 ohms will give you 150 watts each channel. I hope that helps!

View attachment 120096
Thank you, really helpful!!!
 
I love my Powerstage 700 and know of a couple touring acts that use Duncan for stage volume (one of who is extremely picky about tone).

Also, are you using a 50 or 100w EVH? I use my 5153 50w head to power a 4x12 sometimes and find that I prefer power amp modeling ON almost all the time. And that's at upwards of 100db. Granted it's slightly unintuitive but the 5153 50w head's loop is not tube-buffered and seems to work a little better with the Fractal stuff than other FX loops I've tried.

The PS 700 is indeed the other option I was looking at. Can you bypass the EQ on it, like on the PS200?

I use the 50w one. It honestly sounds incredible with high gain models with the Power Amp off. I do however keep the power amp modeling ON with amps that rely on power amp distortion, like a Vox or a Plexi. In that case, I flatten the impedance curve on the FM3, because the amp going into the cab is going to have its own curve.
 
Hi all,

In 2023, is the Matrix GT1000FX still the undefeated king, and is it worth the inflated price tag on the used market, given it's out of stock indefinitely?
What on gods green earth ever made you think the Matrix was the undefeated king? It's not.

While I have and use the very amp you speak of, I certainly don't hold it in nearly as high esteem that you evidently do.

Undefeated king? Hardly! There are several other power amps out there that meet or exceed the GT1000X. But with prices spiraling upward these days the old maxim remains "you get what you pay for"(and unfortunately a lot of the time not even then).

I've had my GT1000X for several years now and I'm not knocking it, but as far as that undefeated king crap goes.........that's just nonsense.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ole
I can't answer whether or not it is the best amp or what the differences are between the US / UK models are, but I can answer the third one. So long as you don't turn the volume up too high it will be no problem to run the GT1000FX into a 120W cab. If you're only running one cabinet you may actually want to consider running the amp in bridge mono mode since it only puts out 150W per channel at 16 Ohms in stereo mode. With a solid state amp you want to have a lot of head room to ensure that transient peaks don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid state power amp can blow your speakers in short order. The general rule that I've seen when running a solid state power amplifier is to use one that can put out 2 x the rated power of the cabinets you intend to run. In this case, you'd want the amp to be capable of putting out at least 240W into 16 Ohms. This ensures that you will reach ear splitting volume well before you risk clipping the power amplifier.
Hello, I read with great interest your exchanges on this subject even if I do not have this amp.
I'm surprised by this statement: "transient spikes don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid-state power amp can blow your speakers out in a short time."

I have the impression that many of us spend our time sending square signals to our favorite HP, it could easily be likened to power amp clipping, right?

Besides, what is the operating class of this Matrix amp?
 
What on gods green earth ever made you think the Matrix was the undefeated king? It's not.

While I have and use the very amp you speak of, I certainly don't hold it in nearly as high esteem that you evidently do.

Undefeated king? Hardly! There are several other power amps out there that meet or exceed the GT1000X. But with prices spiraling upward these days the old maxim remains "you get what you pay for"(and unfortunately a lot of the time not even then).

I've had my GT1000X for several years now and I'm not knocking it, but as far as that undefeated king crap goes.........that's just nonsense.

It was definitely the most recommended option for a while, and it's in Axe FX rigs of a lot of pros. I guess it's good enough for Metallica but not good enough for you, lol

Anyway, if you actually read my post, I was asking if today, in 2023, there are better options that surpassed what used to be regarded as the industry standard. You said there are plenty of better ones, but didn't actually mention any?
 
The PS 700 is indeed the other option I was looking at. Can you bypass the EQ on it, like on the PS200?

I use the 50w one. It honestly sounds incredible with high gain models with the Power Amp off. I do however keep the power amp modeling ON with amps that rely on power amp distortion, like a Vox or a Plexi. In that case, I flatten the impedance curve on the FM3, because the amp going into the cab is going to have its own curve.
I don't know if the EQ on the 700 is technically bypassed when the knobs are in the middle but the knobs do have center detents so you know when they're at "0".
 
Not sure if king is the right word but at one point in time (and even now), there were really not many choices in the market for what I understand to be a good stand alone modeller amplification choice that complies to factors like:
  • Sollid State (no real power tubes to skew the modelling design that already emulates them).
  • Stereo.
  • Rackable.
  • Portable (1U).
  • Lightweight.
  • Super hi headroom with no chance of clipping at desired target volumes.
  • No coloration / flat as possible.
  • No added tone stacks in the path to possibly skew the modelling accuracy.
  • ability to drive many different cab options - 4/8/16Ohm X 2.
  • No added "pre" circuits in the path - just power amp.
  • Designed with modellers in mind (maybe this is just marketing speak, but maybe not).
I've owned 3 1U power amps: Rocktron Velocity, ART SLA, Matrix GT1000FX. While they all could sound a bit ... "stiff", the Matrix I currently have sounds great to my ear - maybe because of the Class AB design that I gather enables a "looser feel", but maybe also because Fractal's modelling has evolved since I changed
over to Matrix years ago. Logically though, I feel like a modeller power amp should not need to be designed with "give" in it since the modelling should provide that (in this sense Class AB might be a bit of a bandaid for a any modelling / patch setting issues). Anyway - no perfect solution I guess - I'm sticking with my Matrix till it breaks as chasing subtle
power amp differences can be an expensive rabbit hole (mine currently drives 2 FR Cabs, or (via switch), 2 112 V30 cabs)..
 
Hello, I read with great interest your exchanges on this subject even if I do not have this amp.
I'm surprised by this statement: "transient spikes don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid-state power amp can blow your speakers out in a short time."

I have the impression that many of us spend our time sending square signals to our favorite HP, it could easily be likened to power amp clipping, right?

Besides, what is the operating class of this Matrix amp?
The Matrix amps are class AB designs.

I'm not entirely certain I understand what you're asking (I don't know what "HP" means).

You are correct that any distorted guitar tone is a clipped signal, but that is not the same as clipping the power amplifier at the end of the chain. The goal of a power amplifier in this application is to cleanly reproduce the input signal (with clipping or not). If you exceeded the clean power range of the power amplifier then you are going to send what is essentially a DC current into the speakers. Much of this current will be dissipated as heat and can destroy the voice coils.
 
The Matrix amps are class AB designs.

I'm not entirely certain I understand what you're asking (I don't know what "HP" means).

You are correct that any distorted guitar tone is a clipped signal, but that is not the same as clipping the power amplifier at the end of the chain. The goal of a power amplifier in this application is to cleanly reproduce the input signal (with clipping or not). If you exceeded the clean power range of the power amplifier then you are going to send what is essentially a DC current into the speakers. Much of this current will be dissipated as heat and can destroy the voice coils.
HP = Haut Parleur => LoudSpeaker in French
Thanks for the explanation
 
Would you care to elaborate? I am not an expert on this matter. This is what I have read online from multiple sources. I am always open to learning from someone with a solid grasp on the topic at hand.

Edit: Here is one of the sources I consulted.

https://www.focal.com/en/focal-teach/why-do-voice-coils-burn-out
"Amplifier not very powerful or under-scaled

A common and unfortunately dangerous situation. As a precautionary measure or unfamiliarity with reality, many users choose an amplifier which is too weak. At high regime it will clip and distort or fail to send "square signals" or, through power supply destabilisation, it will supply direct current to the loudspeaker, which will be fatal for it. During clipping, a 40 Watt amplifier can reach 100 or 120 Watts distorted over 1 millisecond. This problem is often encountered on 40 or 50 Watt amplifiers from bottom of the range manufacturing or to prevent listening at high level. In this other case, the device may lead to the destruction of the treble speakers. If the power gap is large (amplifier less than 30 Watts for an 80 Watt loudspeaker for example), the bass power supply will become difficult and may damage the loudspeaker."
 
Last edited:
Your sending a bad square wave that will let the smoke out of the voicecoils. Bye bye tweeters.

Watch that big transducer slam into the limit of its physics.

Ask me how I know …

Cat Smoke GIF
 
Hello, I read with great interest your exchanges on this subject even if I do not have this amp.
I'm surprised by this statement: "transient spikes don't clip the amp's output. Clipping a solid-state power amp can blow your speakers out in a short time."

I have the impression that many of us spend our time sending square signals to our favorite HP, it could easily be likened to power amp clipping, right?

Besides, what is the operating class of this Matrix amp?

@DanielePanza

I did some additional reading on this topic and it appears that my previous explanation was incorrect and should be disregarded. This article was an informative read. This is my updated understanding. I recognize that this understanding is still surface level and I welcome input from anyone who can offer an informed perspective to correct me where I get things wrong.

Clipping a power amp does not cause direct current (DC) to be fed to the outputs. Apparently, this is a widely parroted myth. An amplifier will only produce a DC output signal if the amplifier's circuitry has become damaged. Running an amp under conditions where it is constantly clipping may eventually lead to damage to the amp circuitry, but that is not usually the case for transiently clipped signals. It is true that DC from a damaged power amplifier will likely destroy a speaker, but that is not the most common reason why a clipped amplifier signal will destroy a speaker.

Amplifiers are rated for their maximum power output with preproduction of either a sine wave or full range input signal at a arbitrarily specified cutoff threshold of a certain percentage of total harmonic distortion. For example, one of the amps that I own is rated for an output power of 700W, 0.03% THD at 8 Ohms per channel with a 20Hz - 20 kHz input signal and 800W, 1% THD into 8 Ohms per channel with a 1 kHz sine wave input signal. Those ratings would be considered the maximum clean power of the amp into 8 Ohms per channel. If an amplifier is driven beyond the rated clean power level, the THD and the total output power both increase beyond the clean power ratings. An amp driven to square wave clipping can exceed the rated clean output power by several multiples. If this level of power output goes beyond the power handling capacity of the connected speaker it can overheat the voice coil(s) and cause speaker failure. It is the large amount of extra signal power that causes the speaker to fail and not the clipped nature of the signal.

This explains why it is fine to cleanly reproduce a distorted guitar sound. So long as the total output power of the signal does not exceed the rated capacity of the speaker it will be fine no mater how much distortion is contained within the input signal.

The author of the article makes the argument that using an amp with lots of excess headroom above the rated power handling capacity of a speaker is a poor choice because too much power is what kills speakers. The mismatch caused by using a high power amplifier with a lower power rated speaker makes it easy to destroy your speakers if you don't know what you're doing. It is undoubtedly true that a high powered amplifier turned up so that it puts out more clean RMS power than the rated capacity of the connected speakers will destroy those speakers. Most speakers can handle transient spikes of power that go beyond their rated RMS power handling capacity so long as the RMS power of the signal is still within the rated power handling capacity. The advantage of using a high power rated amplifier is that you avoid any risk of clipping when large transient spikes in power occur.

I previously stated that it is perfectly fine to use a high powered amplifier with a lower power rated speaker so long as you gain stage the signal appropriately. Nothing I have read so far has lead me to discount that assertion. So long as you turn up the amplifier's input gain incrementally it is quite likely that you will reach sound pressure levels that are unbearable well before you reach a power level that will destroy your speakers. This assumes that the cabinet you are using can put out high sound pressure levels. If you connect a GT800FX to a 1W rated speaker I would expect you to destroy the speaker before it gets to bar band performance volume levels.

My previous recommendation to use an amp with at least 2x the power rating of your speakers was based on the understanding that a clipped amp can easily kill a speaker. As I just discussed, that is only partially correct. The logic was that more clean power = less chance of clipping = less risk to destroy your speakers. My evolving understanding of this subject leads me to conclude that while this recommendation may be fine it is also not necessary. Pairing a speaker with an amplifier of the same rating can in fact be fine (e. g. a 100W amplifier with a 100W speaker) because the amplifier should have sufficient clean power to drive the speaker to appropriate volume levels. However, you don't want to drive that setup beyond the clipping point of the amp because that is a recipe to destroy the speakers. It is also fine to run a lower powered amp (e.g. a 50W amp into a 75W speaker) so long as you don't drive the amp into clipping (again, you risk destroying the speakers if the amp clips too much here). If my understanding is correct, it is always fine to run a low powered amp into a high power handling speaker cabinet (e.g. a 10W power amp into a 100W speaker cab) even with tons of clipping because the speakers can handle the extra RMS power. This is why you can clip the power section on a 100W tube guitar amp into a 300W guitar cab all day with no problems but you might blow your speakers if you do the same using a single 100W rated cab.

The bottom line is that too much power into a speaker is the issue. There happen to be several ways to achieve that undesirable outcome and using an under powered amplifier is only one of those ways.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom