How are you attaching your FM9 to your pedal board?

Retired519 said:
Did you have to cut a larger hole in the board, so the IEC power cable would fit through from the underside?
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DaveO said:
Yes, if you look closely you can see here,
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The alternative is to cut/solder/shrink wrap a 3-prong AC>IEC 3' power cable. If your soldering skills are adequate, you could try this yourself, or ask someone with experience.

You can see where the incoming Temple Audio Micro Mains switch cable connects to the Furman. Just beneath that is the FM9's power cable that connects to one of the Furman's 120VAC outlets. The FM9 power cable was the one that required the cut/solder/shrink wrap. You can see where we added some electrical tape because the shrink wrap we tried working with melted thru with our heat gun.

Comparatively easy project because the 3 interior wires are color-coded. The difficult part is choosing to solder/shrink wrap, or use crimpers and shrink wrap crimper tubes to join the cut wires together.

The crimper tubes are more difficult to hold manually, because you need to keep one end of the power cable through the Temple Audio access hole, and the remaining cable above the upended board. We chose not to soldier/shrink wrap because it might have posed a drip problem with our work. You could theoretically tip the board on its front edge and steady it upright while you solder or use crimpers.

The goal is to maintain the integrity and looks of the board. Widening an access hole via drilling/sanding is possible, but doesn't look as good.

DWtG3Y4.jpg


Here's a close up:

YVwwl37.jpg
 
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bleujazz3 said:
The alternative is to cut/solder/shrink wrap a 3-prong AC>IEC 3' power cable. If your soldering skills are adequate, you could try this yourself, or ask someone with experience.

You can see where the incoming Temple Audio Micro Mains switch cable connects to the Furman. Just beneath that is the FM9's power cable that connects to one of the Furman's 120VAC outlets.

DWtG3Y4.jpg
Click to expand...
Hi @bleujazz3, hope your doing well sir, since you replied to my post I'll reply back,
The reason I cut a hole is so I would never need to worry and can replace any cord going forward, frankly Temple should have designed at least one pass through for a plug, but what ever, cant expect a Canadian to be able to understand the needs of an American.. for anyone pondering how to cut it, its easy, for me I just used my cordless drill and put a dermal die grinder on it and cut a square out were the largest opening already was there. then put some black Flex-Tape to cover the sharp cuts. Walla now you can easily change the plug and add additional cords to pass as well...
 
DaveO said:
Hi @bleujazz3, hope your doing well sir, since you replied to my post I'll reply back,
The reason I cut a hole is so I would never need to worry and can replace any cord going forward, frankly Temple should have designed at least one pass through for a plug, but what ever, cant expect a Canadian to be able to understand the needs of an American.. for anyone pondering how to cut it, its easy, for me I just used my cordless drill and put a dermal die grinder on it and cut a square out were the largest opening already was there. then put some black Flex-Tape to cover the sharp cuts. Walla now you can easily change the plug and add additional cords to pass as well...
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Your point is well-taken. On my previous Temple Audio Duo 34 board, I did exactly what you did with a Fornstner bit, rasp and metal sandpaper to reduce the sharp edges. A Dremel would be ideal and would take the difficulty out of the entire drill process...

It's unfortunate that an IEC power cable does not fit thru an access hole, which requires some creative workaround thinking on the owner's part.

I agree that widening an access hole would work, IMHO, it just reveals the scope of Canadian design. I'm not faulting it, but just thought to offer an alternative in case @Retired519's electrical wiring skills were better than his drilling ones.

I just thought that owning a Temple Audio board is quite a remarkable thing, so my feeling is that maintaining its integrity might be important to some.

Yet, I'm curious. Do you happen to have an image of the underside of your Temple Audio board? Was wondering what your power connections were, and to what...EDIT: Ah, I see it, image 97041 from a previous post...good to see someone else using an AC215A...
 
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bleujazz3 said:
Your point is well-taken. On my previous Temple Audio Duo 34 board, I did exactly what you did with a Fornstner bit, rasp and metal sandpaper to reduce the sharp edges. A Dremel would be ideal and would take the difficulty out of the entire drill process...

It's unfortunate that an IEC power cable does not fit thru an access hole, which requires some creative workaround thinking on owner's parts.

I agree that widening an access hole would work, IMHO, it just reveals the scope of Canadian design. I'm not faulting it, but just thought to offer an alternative in case @Retired519's electrical wiring skills were better than his drilling ones.

I just thought that owning a Temple Audio board is quite a remarkable thing, so my feeling is that maintaining its integrity might be important to some.

Yet, I'm curious. Do you happen to have an image of the underside of your Temple Audio board? Was wondering what your power connections were, and to what...EDIT: Ah, I see it, image 97041 from a previous post...good to see someone else using an AC215A...
Click to expand...
So yeah, I really wish those wacky Canadians at TA who I have the utmost respect for btw would make a board using transparent aluminum, it'd be cool stuff and blow away everyone in the dust...
 
DaveO said:
So yeah, I really wish those wacky Canadians at TA who I have the utmost respect for btw would make a board using transparent aluminum, it'd be cool stuff and blow away everyone in the dust...
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Heh, that's where physical metal structure might be rough to duplicate...yet, the creative mind in me suggests substantial sheets of plexiglass, rather than the "transparent aluminum," much like the FM9's protective covers, might solve your transparency concerns.

You might use a combination of plexiglass top and aluminum sides, with predrilled screw holes for easier assembly.
 
bleujazz3 said:
Heh, that's where physical metal structure might be rough to duplicate...yet, the creative mind in me suggests substantial sheets of plexiglass, rather than the "transparent aluminum," much like the FM9's protective covers, might solve your transparency concerns.

You might use a combination of plexiglass top and aluminum sides, with predrilled screw holes for easier assembly.
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transparent aluminum please :rolleyes:
 
rcm78 said:
I used Dual Lock. Hasn't moved and I'm knocking it around every weekend.
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This plus Temple Audio adhesive mounting plates was considered. Realized that the rubber feet would likely need to be removed because of the non-level surface that would be created with these plates.

Is the Dual Lock applied on rubber feet directly, or did you attach the FM9 without the feet?
 
bleujazz3 said:
This plus Temple Audio adhesive mounting plates was considered. Realized that the rubber feet would likely need to be removed because of the non-level surface that would be created with these plates.

Is the Dual Lock applied on rubber feet directly, or did you attach the FM9 without the feet?
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Does the FM9 have feet? I can't remember. If it does, I took them off along with the rubber side panels so it sits flat on the board. The Dual lock is thick enough to allow the fan to work.
 
rcm78 said:
Does the FM9 have feet? I can't remember. If it does, I took them off along with the rubber side panels so it sits flat on the board. The Dual lock is thick enough to allow the fan to work.
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The rubber side panels that are attached via screws are generally considered "rubber feet."
 
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