FM9 Case?

I got this case today - multicomp pro version...

With the two EV2's at the very bottom of the case, I am not sure this is going to work. I feel like there is too much pressure put on the FM9 when fully latched. I did not hear any clicks, but it you really need to put a bit of work into locking it - you can tell there is quite a bit of pressure needed - maybe too much.

Photos:

Pedals in the middle, as low as they can go in the case. The bottom feet touch the plastic. Two other inserts for cabling.

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FM9 Sitting on top with the small divider foam between. Note, the other foam portion is not pictured here as it is curing with PlastiDip at the moment!

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Even with the lid half closed, its already making serious contact with the joystick. You still have to completely close it, and lock it. I fear it may put too much pressure on the joystick for extended periods of time.

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If you want to take this approach (with pedals on bottom), then I think the only way to solve for this is to put a thinner piece of foam in the top shell cover portion so that its not as thick and doesn't put as much pressure down from the top.
 
sick pickle said:
I got this case today - multicomp pro version...

With the two EV2's at the very bottom of the case, I am not sure this is going to work. I feel like there is too much pressure put on the FM9 when fully latched. I did not hear any clicks, but it you really need to put a bit of work into locking it - you can tell there is quite a bit of pressure needed - maybe too much.

Photos:

Pedals in the middle, as low as they can go in the case. The bottom feet touch the plastic. Two other inserts for cabling.

View attachment 116237

FM9 Sitting on top with the small divider foam between. Note, the other foam portion is not pictured here as it is curing with PlastiDip at the moment!

View attachment 116238

Even with the lid half closed, its already making serious contact with the joystick. You still have to completely close it, and lock it. I fear it may put too much pressure on the joystick for extended periods of time.

View attachment 116239
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How thick is the top / bottom foam? Maybe replace with something thinner?
 
That's why I put my EV2 parallel at the slope of FM9 to give it a bit more room when it pushed up. If I had two, I would put the other one on the left side in the same position.

With your setup, you could take a blade and cut the lid foam a bit thinner on the backside rather than buy new foam. It really just needs enough pressure to keep it from sliding. The top foam isn't crazy firm, so I really doubt it will hurt any buttons as is, but it might give you peace of mind.

Here is a quick photoshop mock-up of my setup where I added an extra EV2 for reference and the original for good measure.

IMG_5958SHopped.jpg


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Rad402 said:
That's why I put my EV2 parallel at the slope of FM9 to give it a bit more room when it pushed up.
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That's big brain. I wish I had thought of that. I watched your video and you said in hindsight, you would have put them in the middle, so I just gravitated towards that hahaha. I think the only solution is to make the top foam thinner to accommodate. I am just a bit OCD and cannot think of how to cut it super cleanly.
 
sick pickle said:
That's big brain. I wish I had thought of that. I watched your video and you said in hindsight, you would have put them in the middle, so I just gravitated towards that hahaha. I think the only solution is to make the top foam thinner to accommodate. I am just a bit OCD and cannot think of how to cut it super cleanly.
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Oh, sorry. I meant middle by the handle side. Whoops!

Another solution if you're worried about the big middle button, you could cut down a few of the points coming down from the lid where it touches the knob. Less cutting, but not as clean looking.
 
sick pickle said:
What did you remove from the lid piece? I cut out a spot for the joystick too. But did you make the whole lid piece thinner?
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I only did a cut out for the joystick. I think whats helping my FM9 fit better is not using the thin piece of foam and also cutting out spots for the rubber ends of the FM9 so the rest of the unit sits flush against the bottom foam. The lid closes with very little pressure and no clicks from the joystick or other buttons.
 
With the seahorse/pelican hard case approach with foam inserts, do you think there'd be space to put a pedaltrain nano with pedals on there in the bottom (along with EV2 and some cables) with the FM9 on top?
Just wondering if I can get all my cabling, my board with wireless/poweramp, expression and FM9 all in the same case
 
Ben Pinkus said:
With the seahorse/pelican hard case approach with foam inserts, do you think there'd be space to put a pedaltrain nano with pedals on there in the bottom (along with EV2 and some cables) with the FM9 on top?
Just wondering if I can get all my cabling, my board with wireless/poweramp, expression and FM9 all in the same case
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Doubt it. With pedals on it, it's actually pretty high. But if you measure it, I'm sure one of us can double check for you.
 
iaresee said:
Doubt it. With pedals on it, it's actually pretty high. But if you measure it, I'm sure one of us can double check for you.
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Yeah my power amp (PS170) is pretty tall when mounted on the board, so may not be feasible. I'll likely be getting one of those style cases regardless just the inner configuration/how to cut the foam may differ
 
My brother-in-law bought a Plano 51" rifle case to convert into a mobile pod-cast setup, but he never followed thru with it, so he gave it to me. Nice case with wheels on the end so transport will be a breeze (but the FM9 and 2 EV1's are HEAVY! LOL).
 

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GuitarEC said:
My brother-in-law bought a Plano 51" rifle case to convert into a mobile pod-cast setup, but he never followed thru with it, so he gave it to me. Nice case with wheels on the end so transport will be a breeze (but the FM9 and 2 EV1's are HEAVY! LOL).
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To reduce the weight on the end handle when pulling the case, move the FM9 to the end closest to the wheels, keeping the pedals in the middle. The FM9 will be subjected to more vibration because it will be closer to the wheels but the padding should help. I’d probably keep about 3” of the pick-and-pluck foam between the FM9 and the end of the case for shock absorption.

If you want it balanced when lifting it by the center handle and don’t mind a little more weight when pulling it, put the FM9 in the middle, with the pedals crosswise at either end. That will reduce vibration and shock to the FM9 when pulling it too, and the pedals shouldn’t really care.

And I’d be tempted to pull a single row of the foam along the edge closest to the middle handle to create a long trough for the cables instead of a big square. It should help keep the foam from breaking apart over time.

That’s based on levers and vectors and years of packing stuff for the military, NASA and such ya know.
 
Greg Ferguson said:
To reduce the weight on the end handle when pulling the case, move the FM9 to the end closest to the wheels, keeping the pedals in the middle. The FM9 will be subjected to more vibration because it will be closer to the wheels but the padding should help. I’d probably keep about 3” of the pick-and-pluck foam between the FM9 and the end of the case for shock absorption.

If you want it balanced when lifting it by the center handle and don’t mind a little more weight when pulling it, put the FM9 in the middle, with the pedals crosswise at either end. That will reduce vibration and shock to the FM9 when pulling it too, and the pedals shouldn’t really care.

And I’d be tempted to pull a single row of the foam along the edge closest to the middle handle to create a long trough for the cables instead of a big square. It should help keep the foam from breaking apart over time.

That’s based on levers and vectors and years of packing stuff for the military, NASA and such ya know.
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That's about what I did, although I did do a large square for the cables, but only because I'm packing a 20' power cord, TRS cables for the pedals, 2 pair of 1/4 TRS to XLR (1 pair male, 1 female), and my guitar cable.
 
Fractalite said:
Not sure if it's been mentioned here, but the cleanest way I have found to cut foam for cases is the good old electric carving knife that your Grandmother might bust out on Thanksgiving. Really works like a charm.
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Would love to have her back here to do it again. Wonderful person and she cooked an excellent turkey. And yes: electric knife is very accurate with this foam.

I got my FM9 Turbo, recently. Consumed with it. Don’t tour so don’t need a hard shell. I ordered the custom Studio Slips case, today. Been buying from them for almost two decades. Excellent quality and customer service.
 
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