Floyd Rose Tuning / Temperature change expectations

Sully0556 said:
If the locking nut base plate is loose and/or moving it will change the length between the nut and the bridge changing your intonation. I may not have been clear in my first post, I was thinking the nut lock not the trem lock. I've had the nut screws loosen up over time allowing the nut to move while tuning which both screws up your tuning and you intonation.
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It still doesn't affect the intonation because the nut only moves away when you press down the bar BUT the slightest displacement sends you out of tune.
 
Playing mainly outdoor shows, that's why I made a telecaster at warmoth nearly 20 years ago. I sacrificed the tremolo and I'm lucky I just love huge neck, I choose their fatback profile (huge) and it's really stable. I can have shows that are 35° the afternoon and 18 at night lol.

Last year I decided to play my 2004 Deluxe 50th Anniversary and even with a fixed bridge the neck is too thin to not get in trouble with temperatures
 
I ran a quick test and here's some data ;) . Measured the tuning of the guitar indoors (at 75F - the lower row). Put the guitar outside for about a half hour (in the shade) - where it was 10 degrees warmer ambient temp than inside. Didn't play the guitar, or move the trem - just moved it from inside to outside. So there's definitely a loss of many cents of tuning with increased temp/humidity (although it's not a humid day). I imagine the difference may grow if it was a wider temperature change.

Just as a recap, my issue is I'll acclimate the guitar at the venue for an hour+ prior to the gig, and have it tuned up to start the show. A few songs into the gig, I'll check the tuning and it will be flat be this much or more.

Axis Tuning With Temperature.png
 
I'd give that guitar a once-over, looking for anything that might not be completely tight. Or maybe a knife edge is out of round.
 
A neck moving due to temperature is massively effected but the type of truss rod, whether it has carbon reinforcement and the orientation of the grain . Just how thin it is is below those considerations.
 
Joshua_L said:
I said it just above, the neck is an important part of this. How thin is your neck?
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It's a Music Man Axis. They are not overly thin I don't feel. They're narrow necks (as far as nut width goes), with an asymmetrical C shape.

Andy Eagle said:
A neck moving due to temperature is massively effected but the type of truss rod, whether it has carbon reinforcement and the orientation of the grain . Just how thin it is is below those considerations.
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I'll get a photo of the neck grain. No carbon reinforcement on those models I don't believe.

So it doesn't seem like these are fixes I could do much about...
 
My guitars go flat in hotter weather and sharp in cold weather. It only takes a few minutes for them to acclimate. I have a Steinberger GS neck on one of them, which has no truss rod, and it does the same exact thing as the others. I’ve played in 100°+ and as low as 15°F. Yep, you read that right. They have always stabilized in minutes with no further issues throughout the gig unless the temps rise or drop dramatically. I have Floyds on everyone of them.
 
darkknight91 said:
My guitars go flat in hotter weather and sharp in cold weather. It only takes a few minutes for them to acclimate. I have a Steinberger GS neck on one of them, which has no truss rod, and it does the same exact thing as the others. I’ve played in 100°+ and as low as 15°F. Yep, you read that right. They have always stabilized in minutes with no further issues throughout the gig unless the temps rise or drop dramatically. I have Floyds on everyone of them.
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REALLY? carbon is almost inert at any room temperature. I have a GS and it never moves.
 
Andy Eagle said:
There is your answer a vintage single rod that braces wood against metal (acts like a thermostat ) and the most flexible orientation of grain ,totally flat with the fingerboard . There is nothing you can do about it.
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I appreciate your info @Andy Eagle. I guess I'll look for another one. So (typically) within a model's units, are the necks likely to all be cut the same way, or could each be different and you just have to investigate each one?
 
CodePoet said:
I appreciate your info @Andy Eagle. I guess I'll look for another one. So (typically) within a model's units, are the necks likely to all be cut the same way, or could each be different and you just have to investigate each one?
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Some companies chose quarter sawn as part of the spec but mostly it is random.
 
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