FCB1010 phantom power mod w/Rocktron cable

LAYGO

Experienced
This was something I've been wanting to do for awhile, but never had the time to research the necessary items needed. I figured I'd let other FCB users know what was what & how to use the Rocktron RDMH900 MIDI cable (7pin to 5pin w/the power dangle split).

The good thing about this method is that ONLY the FCB is modified. No need to make some funky MIDI, and the cable you will be making is as long or short as you want it & mega simple to make. And it's flexible with the bridge rectifiers to use the factory method of powering the FCB or phantom power or even power with the same AC wall wart used at the back of the Axe-FX.

This mod is specific to the Axe-FX though because of the 7pin side at the Axe-FX & how the power is supplied. It works great for this purpose.

Ingredients:
- FCB (duh)
- Axe-FX (duh)
- Rocktron RDMH900 MIDI cable ($18-$20)
- wall wart, 9v+ AC w/2.5mm plug (I've seen 10v AC to 6v DC), min 500mah (this I've seen consistently though) ($5-$20)
- (2) 2.5mm female power plugs (or 3 plugs if your wall wart needs modifying) ($1.20/each, green circle)
or (1) 2.5mm female tipped 6' of cable ($2.20/each, red/yellow circle) & (1) 2.5mm female tip ($1.20/each, green circle)
- (1) 2.5mm male power receptacle, panel mount ($2.50/each, blue circle)
- (2) bridge rectifier ($1.70/each)
- some wire (12" SHOULD work)
- solder gun
- hot glue gun
- patience

Pictures:
RDMH900:
115184.jpg


The different tips:
blue = 2.5mm panel mount male plug
green = 2.5mm female tip
red = 2.5mm female tip with 6' cord
l_fea8d80c46a3457a8ab7bcbb5ccad358.jpg


Here's the entire 2.5mm female tip (red) with 6' cord (yellow) (that's feet!):
l_97ae81f6a2c748be8b3496214afa56d0.jpg


Here they are all soldered up. When it's all put together, the green is plugged into the RDMH900 & taped together, the blue is mounted to the FCB, and the red plugs into it:
l_08e5e8c37ff04921bf88086fadceec57.jpg


Bridge Rectifier, you need 2 of these & hot glued down to the FCB pcb:
l_3c749093a8ba4bab853b0b456a8b8b91.jpg


I got a lot of these parts from Altex Electronics, walked in & they had everything. I only needed a 2nd trip because I didn't think of modifying my own wall wart (see below). RDMH900 came from SamAsh w/free shipping on some other purchases I made at same time (Edirol UM2EX works great w/FCB & Axe-FX!).

First & most difficult thing was figuring out how to plug the male end of the RDMH900 into the FCB. The do not make a female panel mount receptacle. There's a couple of options here as well. Cut the male end off the RDMH900, solder a female tip on it, mount a male end on the FCB. Only thing is, if you goof that, it's another $18-$20 RDMH900 cable. What I did was buy the cable that had a 90deg 2.5mm female tip & about 6 foot of wire for $2.50 (yellow & red circle). I cut the tip with about 4" on the end & solder one female tip on the other end. What you end up with is a short cable with 2 female tips, basically a male to male adapter & no modification to the RDMH900.

Another method of connecting the RDMH900 to the FCB would to be just buy the $2.50 cable (yellow & red circle) with 2.5mm on the end. Drill a small hole in the back of the FCB, solder the exposed wires right to the bridge rectifiers, tie a knot in the cord on each side of the hole in the FCB & be done. I preferred the cleaner look of the panel mount male plug vs a dangling cord. They make 2 different kind of panel mounts that I saw btw, one plastic & very much like the 1/4 jacks with the threaded part & bolt on the outside or a metal one, that the threaded part & bolt is on the inside of the FCB. Not hard, not difficult, just snug with the overhang.

Second difficulty is finding a wall wart with the right voltage/amperage *AND* has a 2.5mm plug. I found a perfect one in my house, just didn't have the right plug (12vAC, 500mah). So I ended up buying an extra tip & soldered it on there. There is also the option of walking into Guitar Center & buying a Line 6 power supply ($20) or the 1 Spot w/a Line 6 adapter ($35). Of course there is the multi-tip option, but I didn't really want to spend on any of those options just for power I wasn't ever going unplug/reuse. Altex did have a 9vAC 1000mah plug for $7.50, but it was the 2.1mm tip.

Now, you're cable is ready & the only thing left is to modify the FCB. There are already docs on using the dual bridge rectifers available on the FCB Yahoo group (not the UnO group) on how to modify it w/o a switch using dual Bridge Rectifiers (method one here & method two here). The only difference in the above listed methods is that you'll be soldering the cable from the yellow circled bundle vs trying to solder the MIDI jacks. Note, you won't need all of that bundle, I cut it down to like 12" but it could be trimmed even further.

I could've probably gotten the bridge rectifiers at Altex as well, but I didn't think about that until later. I got my bridge rectifiers at Radio Shack for $1.70 each out the door (Part # 276-1152). They are less than the size of a dime & about the size of a thick button. Also, if you buy the cable with 2.5mm tip, you have all that extra wire you can use to solder the bridge rectifiers together with.

For the unelectrically inclined, it's not really that hard to modify. Although, the dual rectifier method indicated you could use AC or DC supplying power, when I tried to use a DC adapter, it momentarily lit up the FCB & burned up my external bridge rectifier (guessing). When I :eek: switched back to the known working AC adapter I had, it wouldn't power up. When I tried powering up via the factory plug, it powered up. A $1.70 lesson on polarity check of the DC plug soldering.

The only modification left is to mount the panel mount plug. Drill a hole large enough to fit the threaded end of the panel mount plug (green circle) through. I didn't have that large of a drill bit to do it in one go, so I used my dremel to finish off sizing the hole.

I did some quick power on tests to make sure the plugs worked directly at the FCB & then via the RDMH900. Worked flawlessly the first time & I could still use the factory plug with the 3 prong cord!

Pictures of the FCB being powered on by the RDMH900 & factory plug forthcoming. I need to redo my burnt up bridge rectifier! :)

Notice the lack of the factory power plug. Underneath the tape is the female power plug (green circle from above) plugged in to the RDMH900. Plugged into the FCB itself is the end of the 6' cable (red circle from above) plugged into the panel mount power receptacle (blue circle from above):
DSCF1307.JPG


Shot of it powered on with the plug in:
DSCF1308.JPG


Shot of it powered off with the plug out:
DSCF1309.JPG
 
I would so love to do something like this but I'm just not experienced with electronic modding. :cry:

Nice work though! I hadn't seen that Rocktron cable before either.
 
Again, the FCB modding doesn't take any time at all. I think drilling the hole for the panel mount receptacle took almost as long as soldering the bridge rectifiers.

I'm far from an electronic genius, I'm just willing to dive in & get it done!

I just read & re-read & re-read the instruction on the no switch phantom power mod until I felt I understood it. Bottom line, there's only 2 modifications done to the FCB:
- clipping the yellow wires inside the FCB & soldering them to the bridge rectifiers
- drilling a hole for the panel mount

You can even do a bulk of the soldering of the bridge rectifiers before you even open the case of the FCB. Simply solder the positive to the positive & negative to the negative with about 6" of wire. I used some of the cable from the 6' piece as they were marked for positive/negative (white/black & black).

Then crack open the FCB:
- snip the yellow wires pictured in the PDF docs
- solder the wire ends from the power plug to the internal bridge rectifier
- solder the wire ends from the male panel mount to the external bridge rectifier
- solder the one wire end from the transformer to positive side of one rectifier
- solder the one wire end from the transformer to negative side of the other rectifier
- heat shrink/tape any exposed leads (make sure the heat shrink is on before soldering!)
- hot glue the rectifiers to the FCB pcb

That's all there is to it. Since both wires are yellow, it doesn't matter which gets soldered where for positive or negative or which side of the internal rectifier the other leads get soldered to. It's really that simple & nearly fool proof.

I would advise sticking to AC wall wart though. I'm not sure how the DC will work as again I'm not that electrically inclined.
 
I'm sure you're aware of this, but DMV Electronics offers a great FCB1010 phantom power kit that's very easy to install. No drilling. Clip two wires, stick circuit board to chassis, solder 4 more wires...you're done.

http://www.dmvelectronics.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=&idproduct=1#details

I happen to already have a 7-pin to 5-pin converter cable that Axxess Electronics made up for me years ago so i can still use the power receptacle on the Axe. But I also bought one of the "injection" MIDI cables from DMV as a back up.
You can still use the AC cable too if you want.

The system works great...so far.
 
joegold said:
I'm sure you're aware of this, but DMV Electronics offers a great FCB1010 phantom power kit that's very easy to install. No drilling. Clip two wires, stick circuit board to chassis, solder 4 more wires...you're done.

http://www.dmvelectronics.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=&idproduct=1#details

I happen to already have a 7-pin to 5-pin converter cable that Axxess Electronics made up for me years ago so i can still use the power receptacle on the Axe. But I also bought one of the "injection" MIDI cables from DMV as a back up.
You can still use the AC cable too if you want.

The system works great...so far.

I was very aware but I didn't feel like spending the $35 when I could get $9 or in parts to do the mod + the cable.
 
I did my own mod. Took the powersupply out of the FCB and built it into a box. I put a 5-pin DIN Midi bus and the Euro power bus from the FCB into the lid, wired about 8" of midi cable and the same of power cable through holes in the lid, wired the FCB to get the power from the unused midi pins. Velcro'd it to the back of the rackbag. Power comes from the ordinary Euro powercable into the box, connected to a cable that feeds the FCB supply and going out through 8"cable with a Euro plug into the Axe-FX. Midi has a cable coming from the Axe's midi-out to the bus in the box, power on the outer pins. Ordinary 5-wire Midi cable feeds the FCB!

Also put a bus on the FCB so I can connect a wallwart, just in case.

BTW the FCB only draws 300ma, so most wallwarts can power it.
 
joegold said:
I'm sure you're aware of this, but DMV Electronics offers a great FCB1010 phantom power kit that's very easy to install. No drilling. Clip two wires, stick circuit board to chassis, solder 4 more wires...you're done.

http://www.dmvelectronics.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=&idproduct=1#details

I happen to already have a 7-pin to 5-pin converter cable that Axxess Electronics made up for me years ago so i can still use the power receptacle on the Axe. But I also bought one of the "injection" MIDI cables from DMV as a back up.
You can still use the AC cable too if you want.

The system works great...so far.

I did the DMV mod for $35 and for me it was better than a homegrown solution. Why? Because there's no modification made to the FCB1010, no drilling, etc. And you can still use the AC power cable -- which will autoswitch to that cable and disconnect the MIDI power. Also, the solution I use has the MIDI adapter cable and power supply reside at the Axe-FX, and can use any 5-pin MIDI cable. This is a very clean solution to me.

At least to me, saving $20 is not a big deal if the solution is more professional. Now, if the mod cost a lot more (say $50), then we are getting to 1/3 the price of the FCB1010, and I would say it would not be worth it. I bought the FCB1010 blemished for $99, and there was not a mark on it! So spending a bit more (Uno + DMV mod) was not a big deal. :)
 
Great deal. Bought mine used for €90,- ($130) and it is DAMAGED! A big worn patch in the finish between the 5 and the down switch, some rust in there and lots of scratches. Not much action in used FCBs around here. New they're around €150,-.

I needed something quick and figured it would do for a while. It works. Whenever I will work up the courage and the need is great enough I'll saw it in two and have the pedals and the buttons seperate for easier transport. All the wires can be brought down to 8 and run through a network cable. I'd have to get me a band to play in first.

Can't attach a picture of my mod, "board attachment quota has been reached". I wanted something I could velcro in the back of my rack without needing a big powerblock. No space in the back to keep that secure.
 
alchemist said:
joegold said:
I'm sure you're aware of this, but DMV Electronics offers a great FCB1010 phantom power kit that's very easy to install. No drilling. Clip two wires, stick circuit board to chassis, solder 4 more wires...you're done.

http://www.dmvelectronics.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=&idproduct=1#details

I happen to already have a 7-pin to 5-pin converter cable that Axxess Electronics made up for me years ago so i can still use the power receptacle on the Axe. But I also bought one of the "injection" MIDI cables from DMV as a back up.
You can still use the AC cable too if you want.

The system works great...so far.

I did the DMV mod for $35 and for me it was better than a homegrown solution. Why? Because there's no modification made to the FCB1010, no drilling, etc. And you can still use the AC power cable -- which will autoswitch to that cable and disconnect the MIDI power. Also, the solution I use has the MIDI adapter cable and power supply reside at the Axe-FX, and can use any 5-pin MIDI cable. This is a very clean solution to me.

At least to me, saving $20 is not a big deal if the solution is more professional. Now, if the mod cost a lot more (say $50), then we are getting to 1/3 the price of the FCB1010, and I would say it would not be worth it. I bought the FCB1010 blemished for $99, and there was not a mark on it! So spending a bit more (Uno + DMV mod) was not a big deal. :)

I reread the instructions to the DMV kit. Bottom line is . . . you need a brick & you need the adapter cable to work. The good thing . . . it works for ANY device to phantom power the FCB.

My solution is perfect for the AxeFX. Now, all I would need to do to make it work for any device is get their adapter cable with my Rocktron cable. Now I have a power pigtail on each end of the cable & can phantom power and I do not need to worry about polarity of how the cable is wired. The only thing I'd be worried about is if the device end of their adapter can handle a 7pin plug.

Either solution works, mine's cheaper, wasn't hard, and can be as flexible as their solution.

Kit (base cost) +$35
Did you buy their insertion cable? +$15
Did you buy their brick? +$12

Total: $62.

Mine:
$17.00 (1) cable
$3.60 (3) tips (you'd need 3 max, min 1 @ $1.20/ea)
$2.50 (1) mount
$3.40 (2) bridge rectifiers ($1.70/ea)
$12.00 (1) brick (or free if you have one already)

Total: $38.50

You can probably find a cheaper brick (I used DMV price). Guitar Center usually has a box of power supplies. $3-$5.

My cost was $25 to mod my FCB.
 
Great mod..


now to find out what "bridge rectifier" is in dutch :D

Edit: Great..FYI, it's "bruggelijkrichter" :D

Question: Does the powersupply have to be AC or would DC work aswell?
 
great mod! plan on doing this for my guitar player. my question tho is:

is it possible to eliminate the whole bridge rectifier system if i plan on only using the new 'phantom power' plug, and never needing to use the original? from what i understand, the rectifier is only there to send equal power to both plugs, yes?
 
I phantom my fcb through the 5 pin midi cable out on fcb used a single pole double throw switch to switch between phantom or power cord no rectifiers, but had to add switch. works good for me. my 9 volt power is connected to a little midi adapter cord that I cut and soildered together. plugged in to the same power conditioner as the axe and my pitch black.
 
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