Expression Pedal Not Callibrating Correctly

jawshua said:
View attachment 116034


That’s how the wires looked with the initial problem. I switched the wires on the outer terminals of the pot and that is when it worked in reverse. Can you recommend which wires I should swap?
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Go back to your original configuration. Then swap the tip and ring connections.

And yeah, that resistor serves no purpose.
 
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Rex said:
Go,back to your original configuration. Then swap the tip and ring connections.

And yeah, that resistor serves no purpose.
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That did not do it. It made it worse, making it almost act like an on off. But it had the same result of hitting 0 long before heel down
 
So I have literally tried EVERY combination. All 6 of them. The problem still remains the same, so I’m definitely leaning towards the pot being over 100k for the resistance.
 
I’m starting to suspect that’s not actually a linear pot in there.
 
So I checked the pot on a multimeter and it read 100.8 so I assume that’s the problem. It seemed to read close to 50 on the meter when I turned it half way, so I do not believe it not being linear is the issue. However, the pot does have some more room to turn even though it was reading full already. So maybe it’s just a bad/junk pot.


I ordered a 10k pot hopefully that one will work better.
 
Crybaby pedals can't spin the pot the full 300 degrees of it's travel. You may need to rotate the pot shaft relative to the rack gear to get it to spin further in one direction or the other. Loosen the screw that holds the folded over tension piece that pushes on the back side of the flat rack gear to have enough room to spin the pinion gear. Push the flat rack gear back away from the round pinion gear a little and spin the gear one or two teeth further in one direction and see if that helps. If it makes it worse, try adjusting the other way instead. If you go too far in either direction the pedal mechanism will bind when the pot hits its mechanical rotation limit.
 
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mr_fender said:
Crybaby pedals don't spin the pot the full 300 degrees of it's travel. It's closer to half of that. You may need to rotate the pot shaft relative to the rack gear to get it to spin further in one direction or the other. Dunlop pots have modified tapers to compensate for this. Push the flat rack gear back away from the round pinion gear until you can spin the gear one or two teeth in each direction and see if either of those helps.
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I’ve already tried playing with the position of the gear. Regardless of how I do it, it either reaches 0 before heel down or 10 before toe down. That’s why I mentioned how I noticed the gear keeps spinning even though my meter reaches the full 100k. Again, I truly think pointing me into the direction of a bad pot. I ordered a Dunlop 10k pot so hopefully it is like you mentioned that Dunlop compensates for it.
 
jawshua said:
I would definitely try this, but I do not have any. Only the 1k, but I have a strong feeling it’s the pot itself
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You could try the 1k in parallel, it would bring the total ohms to under 100k. I don't believe being .8 over 100k would cause your issue though, at least not the extreme you're describing. More likely a bad pot or cable.
 
When I measured the pot, I know the manual says it reads 10k-100k, I thought there’s no way that much over would make such a big problem. So I’m really praying this new pot does the trick. It’s stressing me out for such a seemingly easy project.
 
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