Denoising strat - shameless request for recommendations

But how does it work with positions 2 and 4?
They have a diagram to wire it up, but, in English: the 4p5t switch simply connects the pickup black wires directly to ground rather than through the dummy coil and lets the RWRP pickup do its thing. It also flips the phase of the dummy coil to cancel hum on the RWRP middle when selected....
 
But how does it work with positions 2 and 4?
Here is the diagram. The downside of using a commonly-available 4p5t as shown is you lose the tone pot switching, so since there is a common shared tone cap, all the lows get coupled between the two tone pots. That's the reason for me getting a 4p5t super switch and a regular 5-way switch, and swapping the second wafer onto the regular 5-way switch. The part of the circuit that switches the dummy coil operates on just two sections of the switch, so they can go on the "super" wafer contacts, and the standard 5-way part can be directly copied from the stock wiring, which switches the wire to the tone controls, giving (in mine) a bridge tone control and a neck/middle tone control (and both are active when the bridge+middle combo is selected). I really like that arrangement, as you can usually leave the neck/middle one dimed or nearly so, and then tweak the bridge one until the icepick softens....
 
@tysonlt,

It's interesting that you ask this question. Earlier this evening, I'd seen a release of NAMM announcing the Pacifica Pro and Standard series, and wondered about the pickups.

I recalled that Fender once made noiseless pickups, so I did a little research...turns out the Lace Sensor was the first attempt at noiseless. The Lace Sensor runs off of battery onboard guitar power, and introduction of a power source into a guitar would mean I'd have active pickups. Not the most desirable option.

Digging a little further, I learned about Fender American Strat Ultra guitars, with recent 2023 models sporting the recent Gen 5 Vintage Noiseless pickup set. These are priced slightly higher than the Professional series, but it's likely that the Ultra holds up slightly better in a variety of venues and conditions.

You can find used Fender American Standard Ultra SSS guitars on Reverb and elsewhere for $1400 upwards.
 
Here is the diagram. The downside of using a commonly-available 4p5t as shown is you lose the tone pot switching, so since there is a common shared tone cap, all the lows get coupled between the two tone pots. That's the reason for me getting a 4p5t super switch and a regular 5-way switch, and swapping the second wafer onto the regular 5-way switch. The part of the circuit that switches the dummy coil operates on just two sections of the switch, so they can go on the "super" wafer contacts, and the standard 5-way part can be directly copied from the stock wiring, which switches the wire to the tone controls, giving (in mine) a bridge tone control and a neck/middle tone control (and both are active when the bridge+middle combo is selected). I really like that arrangement, as you can usually leave the neck/middle one dimed or nearly so, and then tweak the bridge one until the icepick softens....
lonestar_strat.gif
This was an interesting one for tone controls .
 
The vintera has that push button which complicates the wiring, but already has that tone control wiring. I can’t believe they originally had no tone control for the bridge!
 
The vintera has that push button which complicates the wiring, but already has that tone control wiring. I can’t believe they originally had no tone control for the bridge!
The best mods on a strat are the Eric Johnson tone mod (one tone for neck/middle and one for bridge) and the Dave Gilmour (switch to add the neck pick up to the selection). The best in fact the ONLY push pull worth buying is the CTS. These mods are both invisible if you use the push pull and both well worth doing . They also don't interfere with the standard function, loose or compromise anything.
 
The best mods on a strat are the Eric Johnson tone mod (one tone for neck/middle and one for bridge) and the Dave Gilmour (switch to add the neck pick up to the selection). The best in fact the ONLY push pull worth buying is the CTS. These mods are both invisible if you use the push pull and both well worth doing . They also don't interfere with the standard function, loose or compromise anything.
I so wish there was a quality push-PUSH control, since I hate the ergonomics of push-pull knobs.
But, as I hear it, there's no such animal.
 
Well then.
Other option you don't speak well of it's the FreeWay.
These things work but they don't have anything like the durability. Also is the function you would be adding worth the added complication and potential failure at probably a very bad moment. The DG and EJ mods don't really change the basic functions and do doing worthwhile things to the table. For instance the four push pull LP wiring with series parallel and phase on everything is just garbage because most of the additional functions are significantly worse that the core sounds and what you could do with the vol and tone. In 99% of cases the best and most useful options are stock on the instrument.
 
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A couple of push-push options:

https://warmoth.com/pp500 - I installed one of these on a friends guitar build and it worked great.

https://www.mojotone.com/Mojotone-5...YHeHGrkeakOiffBj7p1uTUeSCZvJpGdxoCdgIQAvD_BwE
The spindles come out of those pretty easily and the pot and switch part are very low grade. It works great until it doesn't . If the knobs is remotely tight on these when you try to take one off the whole centre comes out with it. They are both the same BTW. utter crap.
 
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