Brrrrrrrr!!

If there were really truth in advertising, the Minnesota bureau of tourism's slogan for this state would be 'Don't come here. It's bullshit. It's stupid cold and it absolutely sucks ass in the winter.'

They always refer to Minnesotans as 'hearty people'. I just think that's code for fat and too dim to move somewhere that isn't a frozen shitball for 5 months of the year.
My brother lives in MN. He texted me earlier today that their furnace is offline today; they'll have a service tech check it out. Hopefully, a small repair, like the optical eye needs cleaning, or something less costly. Brother tells me #not1strodeo and don't worry; they've got gas fireplace and good insulation meanwhile.
 
Best wishes to you people that are stuck in these super cold and stormy conditions, and hopefully a happy holiday as best as you can!
 
15 hours without power now. Not fun.
Make sure you turn off all the fuses and leave only the furnace and the fridge on
start the generator on the driveway, run a cable from it under the garage door and plug it into an outlet.
;)
 
The office and media section had the most checks. I’ll deal without a dishwasher, but not a modem and laptop/computer.🙄
I still have a land-line for emergency purposes...or so I thought!

When we had the four day power outage in May, I plugged the old keypad style phone in the jack and had dial-tone. I plugged the router into the outlet in the truck and had Wi-Fi. All was good for a couple days, then the phone line went dead as did the DSL service. I was driving by the telco switch box (CO-Central Office) where the fibre terminates (Fibre to the neighbourhood), up the road and there was a Bell tech. there. I asked him why the land-line went dead and he said because the remote CO's are backed up by batteries that only last 2-3 days. Didn't even dawn on me that it wouldn't be like the old days, when everyone's landline went to a CO, which was an actual building or underground bunker, that had diesel generators to supply back-up power.
 
8000 running Watts or startup?

The Generlink MA23-S would be perfect. It has a max. running wattage of 8500 W and built-in surge protection. It will easily handle a fridge, some lights and AC or furnace. A gas furnace only needs power for the blower. Same for a power vented hot water tank. That's the model I'm going to get. I need to power my well pump as well. There's a 40 Amp version that has a 10,000 W max., but the electrician said the extra cost is not worth a gain of only 1500 W.

With the Generlink, you can turn on and off breakers as needed, as long as the total load doesn't exceed the 8500 W or the running wattage of the generator. With a dedicated generator, you need to pre-select the circuits you want and wire them into a pony panel and install a transfer switch. They also cost 4x+ the cost of a Generlink/generator combination.

View attachment 113196

Use this tool to determine running and startup Wattage requirements.

https://www.championpowerequipment.com/generator-selector/power-needs/?primary-use=Home Essentials

Check your local electrical codes to see if they are permitted and you also need to float the neutral on the generator.

https://www.electricgeneratorsdirec...ipping-a-Generator-With-a-Bonded-Neutral.html
6500 running watts

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-6...EEB8NmfxrUg8UZINhXt9hjSgihnQHekHT__PwX2dJJ0SY
 
Make sure you turn off all the fuses and leave only the furnace and the fridge on
start the generator on the driveway, run a cable from it under the garage door and plug it into an outlet.
;)

I know you included the winky face, but ya, don't do that! Not only is it dangerous and illegal, if you burn the house down, good luck getting the insurance company to pay up! :)
 
I know you included the winky face, but ya, don't do that! Not only is it dangerous and illegal, if you burn the house down, good luck getting the insurance company to pay up! :)
I have a buddy burned down half his house with a portable generator used too close to the house. Took a few years of back and forth but it ended up the best thing that happened to that house with the renovations done once it was all hammered out.
 
If you already have it, go with the Generlink MA23-S. You can always get a bigger generator if needed. The whole idea is to power essentials, like fridges, freezers, heat/AC, well, etc. We lost over $400 in food!
yea that definitely looks like a solution, in addition to some kind of fixed structure I can run the generator from in the rain and weather. Its so damn cold out if the power went out today I'd just put all the food out on the deck!
 
I have a buddy burned down half his house with a portable generator used too close to the house. Took a few years of back and forth but it ended up the best thing that happened to that house with the renovations done once it was all hammered out.
When I had the electrical inspector at the house in October, closing out my basement permit for the basement renos I did, I told him I was thinking of putting the generator in one of these, under the meter, so I wouldn't have to wheel it out when needed. It would also protect it from rain, snow, etc. I was going to add vents on the end so the generator had air circulation and to vent the exhaust. He looked at me, smiled and said...'it's exactly what I did!'.

1671907796887.png
 
When I had the electrical inspector at the house in October, closing out my basement permit for the basement renos I did, I told him I was thinking of putting the generator in one of these, under the meter, so I wouldn't have to wheel it out when needed. It would also protect it from rain, snow, etc. I was going to add vents on the end so the generator had air circulation and to vent the exhaust. He looked at me, smiled and said...'it's exactly what I did!'.

View attachment 113199
it looks great and seems like a good idea, but if THAT caches fire, isn't it a little close to the house??
 
yea that definitely looks like a solution, in addition to some kind of fixed structure I can run the generator from in the rain and weather. Its so damn cold out if the power went out today I'd just put all the food out on the deck!

We have a fireplace, so in the winter, like you said, mother nature provides the cooling for food. We're on a well, so we filled the tubs with water, so we would have flushing water. Of course, you can only do that when you have advanced warning.
 
Last edited:
it looks great and seems like a good idea, but if THAT caches fire, isn't it a little close to the house??
It's rare, but like you said, you've seen it happen. One option would be to line the inside with cement board or Rockwool, which would also deaden the sound. You could also put it on locking casters, so you could easily move it away from the house when in use. Of course, the simplest option is to just store the generator and bring it out when needed. By the time you turn off all the breakers, hook-up the generator and get it up and running, would only be 10 minutes or so before you start turning on breakers.

Nice thing about the Generlink, it will sense when the grid is back online and will not connect to the grid until you shut down the generator and disconnect it.
 
It's rare, but like you said, you've seen it happen. One option would be to line the inside with cement board or Rockwool, which would also deaden the sound. You could also put it on locking casters, so you could easily move it away from the house when in use. Of course, the simplest option is to just store the generator and bring it out when needed. By the time you turn off all the breakers, hook-up the generator and get it up and running, would only be 10 minutes or so before start turning on breakers.

Nice thing about the Generlink, it will sense when the grid is back online and will not connect to the grid until you shut down the generator and disconnect it.
Im surprised it passed code being so close to the house but then again, if they don't know its purpose its just a garbage shed. I've seen the permanent expensive whole house generators right up against the house and always wondered how that passes inspection.

This Generlink is definitely happening next year once we move.
 
If you already have it, go with the Generlink MA23-S. You can always get a bigger generator if needed. The whole idea is to power essentials, like fridges, freezers, heat/AC, well, etc. We lost over $400 in food!
What's the rough cost of that Generlink?
What's the installation cost?
 
What's the rough cost of that Generlink?
What's the installation cost?

The non-surge protected 30 Amp. version, w/ 20 ft. cable, is $1,800 CDN, plus 13% tax, installed. That includes coordinating with the utility (Hydro One) to come and cut the meter tag, remove the meter base, install the Generlink, reinstall the base, a new tag and inspection.

The surge protected 30 Amp. version, w/ 20 ft. cable, is $1,950 CDN, plus 13% tax, installed (plus all the other things I mentioned).

I asked the electrician if I would get a discount if a buddy of mine got one too and he knocked a $100 off for each of us.

The non-surge protected version on it's own, w/ 20 ft. cable, is about $1,500 CDN, plus 13% tax.

The inspector told me it's faster and cheaper to have a license electrician do it. In Ontario, homeowners can do their own electrical work, but I would need to pull another permit and coordinate everything with the utility.
 
Back
Top Bottom