Anyone want to phantom power mod my FCB1010? UK

P

philclcc

Member
Hi,
I really want a phantom powered FCB1010, the idea of one midi cable is brilliant, however I don't understand wires or electronics and can't solder for toffee...

Anybody interested in doing this for me in the UK? I'll pay obviously...
 
philclcc said:
Hi,
I really want a phantom powered FCB1010, the idea of one midi cable is brilliant, however I don't understand wires or electronics and can't solder for toffee...

Anybody interested in doing this for me in the UK? I'll pay obviously...
Click to expand...

Any decent electronics shop will do it, www. delatronics.co.uk is my main man. they are the
independent Roland repair agents for EU. very nice guy to deal with.I have sent him several
units deemed un-fixable by the makers and he did it no sweat. :)
 
voes said:
FYI: here you find some info how to do that (last item): http://voes.be/fcb1010/howto.htm
Click to expand...

I recently upgraded to a Gordius LG2, so I have no need for my combination power/midi cable for the FCB 1010 that I bought from Mike at Rocket. Unfortunately I am in the states, but I travel to the EU quite often. Let me know if you are interested and I will email you the details.
 
George Jetson said:
voes said:
FYI: here you find some info how to do that (last item): http://voes.be/fcb1010/howto.htm
Click to expand...

I recently upgraded to a Gordius LG2, so I have no need for my combination power/midi cable for the FCB 1010 that I bought from Mike at Rocket. Unfortunately I am in the states, but I travel to the EU quite often. Let me know if you are interested and I will email you the details.
Click to expand...

Hi George,
I'm interested, what type of cable is it and does it still require nodding the floorboard?
How much would you like for it?

Cheers
Phil
 
I can't solder for crap either. I'd show you pics of my soldering, but I didn't take any.

BUT, doing the phantom power mod isn't that hard at all. SERIOUSLY.

If you're worried about soldering stuff, practice on something that doesn't matter. The EASIEST thing is soldering two wires together and that's all you're doing. If you want, buy some extra bridge rectifiers, practice soldering a wire to one of the pins. The rectifiers are like $2. Each one has 4 legs. You need 2, buy 3, and burn away at each leg on the spare.

It's really hard to mess it up. I was intimidated as well, but I just jumped in with both feet & went for it. It worked. Haven't had a problem since. I thought I had a problem, but it works now, and it has since.

How do you get to Carnegie Hall? PRACTICE!
How do you get good at guitar? PRACTICE!
How do you get your FCB phantom powered? PRACTICE SOLDERING!
 
Yeah. That and some putty. To stick the parts onto while soldering. I have a small clamp, but something sticky will work too.
Just very useful when you're holding an iron with one hand, solder in the other and you're trying not to push the part over the edge of the table.
 
I am only somewhat familiar with this mod, but I know soldering really well. You can twist the wires onto the rectifier and then solder them - this will work wire to wire also. I prefer to twist the wires such that they appear to be continuous, solder them and use heat shrink to insulate. The the wire will end up looking like a continuous unit with a piece of heat shrink on it. For soldering - first use a decent soldering iron made for electronic soldering. You can get by with a radio shack unit in a pinch. For a small project like this it should suffice. Once the soldering iron heats up, melt some solder onto it - there should not be a huge blb of solder on it but there should be some solder on it. The extra little bit of solder helps disperse the heat to what ever you are soldering. With the wires twisted and secured in some way that you can use one hand for the iron and the other for the solder - place the soldering iron tip to the wire to be soldered - not just the tip of the iron, place it in such a way that the heat from it transfers to the wire. At the same time apply solder to the junction formed by the iron tip and the wire. The solder will flow over the entire area. It is ok to "re-flow' the solder if it appears that it did not cover the area adequately. This should be a fairly quick process although there is no need to get into too big of a hurry. The "time" issue has to due with over heating the wire and thus melting the wiring insulation (which should be stripped back anyway) and over heating a semi conductor (ie the rectifier chip) this particular ic is not hugely prone to being damaged by heat - just be concious of this things - practice a bit and you should be fine. The final solder joint should be shiny and smooth. If it is dull and/or rough the solder needs to be reflowed. Dull and/or rough is indicative of a cold solder joint - not good. Use electronic solder - obtainable at radio shack - no need to get super fancy with silver and all that; of course its fine if you do - just plain old electronic solder will work good and last a long time. Practice a bit and you should be fine. Hope you find this suggestions helpful - I'll probably being doing this mod very soon myself.
 
At lunch, I'm gonna go buy the supplies to phantom power another FCB1010. I will take pictures/video. This mod is really easy.

I swear it took longer to drill the hole in the back of the FCB for the power receptacle.
 
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