Anyone using Floyd Rose titanium insert blocks?

I have the titanium blocks in 3 or 4 of my guitars. The only reason I use them is I was getting horrible corrosion on the non-fine tuner Floyds and had a hard time changing strings because the blocks were stuck in the saddle. That said, I’ve had one of them where the string would slip out and have no idea why. I just put the original block back in and no problems. I’d like to find someone who makes them in stainless steel. I have Floyds from the 80’s and the newer ones don’t seem up to snuff. Btw, I only use Originals. Not any of the other sub models.
 
rcm78 said:
I use them on my PC-1. They last longer. The original black ones crack. A trade off is the string retention screws can mushroom in the titanium block so SS screws should be used.
Click to expand...
Weird. I own more than 20 guitars with Floyd Rose bridges and have owned many others. I've never experienced that issue in 30+ years of using them... I get mine nice and tight, but sounds like you must be really torquing them?
 
I've had one set of blocks crack, and that was a second-hand Floyd on a guitar that wasn't really well cared for. Since replacing them with brand new blocks direct from Floyd Rose I haven't had a single issue.
 
unix-guy said:
Weird. I own more than 20 guitars with Floyd Rose bridges and have owned many others. I've never experienced that issue in 30+ years of using them... I get mine nice and tight, but sounds like you must be really torquing them?
Click to expand...
I did when I was younger and didn’t know better or have the internet as a resource. I’m also down to two Floyds so the Titanium blocks and SS screws are nice to have items.
I did crack them back in the day. Trying to find replacements was impossible until I walked into 48th Street Custom. That place was awesome!
 
Titanium parts are not better and in some cases not up to the job at all. Even the $2k Ti floyd is pretty thin sounding and has trouble holding the plain strings.
IMG_1222.jpeg
This one was nothing but a PITA and sounded poor as well.
 
Andy Eagle said:
Titanium parts are not better and in some cases not up to the job at all. Even the $2k Ti floyd is pretty thin sounding and has trouble holding the plain strings.
View attachment 122950
This one was nothing but a PITA and sounded poor as well.
Click to expand...
Always wondered about the titanium saddles and bridge. Way to expensive to take a shot in the dark on...
 
Andy Eagle said:
Knife edges in titanium is also a complete joke, they can't keep an edge. This whole idea is based on somebody going Wooo Titanium without any actual knowledge of materials engineering . It sounds bad and it's barley functional.
Click to expand...
what are your thoughts on Korean FR 1000 "pro" vs "original style (used in stock guitars)" vs 1500? Same thing except for the stainless screws and push in bar?
 
Last edited:
I've found the 1000 series to be very high quality, at least when compared to the Specials, I'm curious as to Andy's take as well. Apparently they're made to the same spec as the German ones, but they're not identical. The base plate is stamped and bent on the 1000 series, instead of milled on the Originals. The fine tuners are also slightly different dimension.

I can't place my finger on exactly why, but every 1000 series I've had felt stiffer than an equivalently set up Original. I much prefer the feel and response of the Originals and replace all my 1000 series with OFRs, but that's a personal preference thing. I know many players and luthiers whose opinions I respect that fully endorse the 1000 series.

From what I understand, the Floyd Rose 1000 is equivalent to a stock Original, whereas the 1500 is the one with the stainless parts and push-in bar (another "upgrade" I can't stand lol).
 
Andy Eagle said:
Knife edges in titanium is also a complete joke, they can't keep an edge. This whole idea is based on somebody going Wooo Titanium without any actual knowledge of materials engineering . It sounds bad and it's barley functional.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

Titanium often provides weight advantage and sometimes heat/temp advantage over steel (great for battlebots); but hardened steel is amazing and inexpensive. A proper stainless would work as well. (Knife-maker here)

You don’t see many blades made out of titanium. Scales yes, but not edged blades.
 
sprint said:
what are your thoughts on Korean FR 1000 "pro" vs "original style (used in stock guitars)" vs 1500? Same thing except for the stainless screws and push in bar?
Click to expand...
The "pro" has low profile tuners and is a different trem with two versions one Korean and the USA made original. Stainless bolts and a push in arm is a small improvement. I actually like the regular arm if you find one with no play.
 
rossipedia said:
I've found the 1000 series to be very high quality, at least when compared to the Specials, I'm curious as to Andy's take as well. Apparently they're made to the same spec as the German ones, but they're not identical. The base plate is stamped and bent on the 1000 series, instead of milled on the Originals. The fine tuners are also slightly different dimension.

I can't place my finger on exactly why, but every 1000 series I've had felt stiffer than an equivalently set up Original. I much prefer the feel and response of the Originals and replace all my 1000 series with OFRs, but that's a personal preference thing. I know many players and luthiers whose opinions I respect that fully endorse the 1000 series.

From what I understand, the Floyd Rose 1000 is equivalent to a stock Original, whereas the 1500 is the one with the stainless parts and push-in bar (another "upgrade" I can't stand lol).
Click to expand...
The German OFR has a drop forged baseplate and CNC milled saddles. The Korean has cast saddles and a bent flat stock baseplate. The brass in the block is different also. The Korean one (both versions) are very good but usually need some better bolts and an arm mech that feels better.
I can make a FRT 1000 feel exactly the same and work just as well but you need to swap the arm mech for a German one and fit a German block if the one you have is zinc. Bolts is wise too.
 
Quick update - problem solved. After upgrading the zinc saddles with FR1000 saddles AND installing KTS titanium blocks, no more string slippage problems. Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this topic!
 
Last edited:
I've encountered a similar issue with Floyd Rose's titanium blocks. The hardness and smoothness of titanium can sometimes cause thinner strings to slip.

Here's what worked for me:

Ensure the string is properly seated in the block before tightening.
Press the string into the saddle as you tighten.
Make sure the string end is cleanly cut, with no bends or burrs.

If the issue persists, consider going back to the original blocks or trying a different brand. Titanium blocks may not suit everyone.
 
MelissaAve said:
I've encountered a similar issue with Floyd Rose's titanium blocks. The hardness and smoothness of titanium can sometimes cause thinner strings to slip.

Here's what worked for me:

Ensure the string is properly seated in the block before tightening.
Press the string into the saddle as you tighten.
Make sure the string end is cleanly cut, with no bends or burrs.

If the issue persists, consider going back to the original blocks or trying a different brand. Titanium blocks may not suit everyone.
Click to expand...
Its not whether is suits different people more that it is not suitable for this application. A stainless steel block would be best.
 
Andy Eagle said:
Its not whether is suits different people more that it is not suitable for this application. A stainless steel block would be best.
Click to expand...
There’s a lot of snake oil in this stuff. FU-Tone is some of the worst. He even says his titanium is better than Floyd’s titanium. Just goofy. The only reason I’m using the titanium on a few of my guitars was because of corrosion. I’m not getting it on all of them though so there must a difference in some of the blocks I’ve received in my bridges. The non-fine tune bridges are the worst. I only found stainless on Amazon but I have no idea if they’re any account. I may buy them and see. They’re only $12 or $13 For 30 pieces. Out of 4 guitars I’ve installed titanium only one string has slipped out and it was an unwound G and that happened day one. I’ve been using them for maybe a year or two so I don’t know how long they’ll last. My oldest Floyd is from ‘86 and still has all the original parts with no issues.
 
Andy Eagle said:
Why?
Click to expand...
I was at the Frankfurt Music Trade Show many, many years ago, where I met Hirasho Masuda. CEO of KTS TITANIUM.
We talked a lot about his titanium stuff and he gave me some samples.
Insert blocks, the big block for the Floyd and two set of saddles for Goto style tremolos.

I didn't believe it would make a tonal difference. But it does, and it makes a huge difference. I am very convinced of it.
These parts have now been in use for about 12 years.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom