Anyone using Floyd Rose titanium insert blocks?

S

SweetPete

Inspired
So I bought some and my high-E and B strings keep slipping out, and believe me the block is screwed in tighter than I normally do (30+ years of Floyd usage). The blocks are shiny and smooth, and I even took some sand paper to the string-side of the block but no luck - E and B keep slipping. Went back to the original blocks and no slippage problem.

Anyone else experience this?
 
I don't know what the "EVH®-Branded Floyd Rose® Locking Tremolo with EVH® D-Tuna®" actually means in terms of which specific FR model is used, but what you're describing is a well-known problem with the Floyd Rose Special trems, and it's a problem with the saddle metal, and cannot be fixed with new insert blocks.

Here's an example of an old special I had, before I swore them off for good:

IMG_1653 Large.jpeg

You can see the metal of the saddles themselves deforming. Not much you can do other than replace the saddles. Luckily the Original and 1000 series saddles are both drop in replacements and are made of much better material (hardened steel as opposed to zinc).
 
The FRT1000 EVH is usually fine with the stock blocks. Titanium is not suitable for Floyd Rose parts and I get nothing but trouble with it (too soft) the hardened steel is far better . Blocks however usually work ok so I would check the block fits properly flat against the clamping surface first. Sometimes original blocks crack or deform but a quality steel one is still best .
 
Great info, thanks guys! I found this from a Reverb listing: "This EVH branded Floyd Rose Special in Black Nickel maintains the design and features of an Original Floyd Rose, while utilizing zinc alloy saddles in place of steel and a zinc alloy sustain block in place of brass."

Looks like I'll have to replace the saddles with original/1000 hardened steel ones.
 
Interested in this as I'm closing in on replacing my licenced FR guitar with one that has an FR1000 (from what I've been able to read, the EVHs are a rebranded 1000). I've never had saddle block issues with the licenced FR so a little concerned about buying into some.

Anyway - question: Do you guys think this issue can result from over tightening the strings at the saddle? How tight do you normally bolt them in?
 
sprint said:
Interested in this as I'm closing in on replacing my licenced FR guitar with one that has an FR1000 (from what I've been able to read, the EVHs are a rebranded 1000). I've never had saddle block issues with the licenced FR so a little concerned about buying into some.

Anyway - question: Do you guys think this issue can result from over tightening the strings at the saddle? How tight do you normally bolt them in?
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That would make sense! but the type of metals used will still make the difference! Hardened steel will last longer than anything else. When I was using Floyds I always went with firm hand tight and not trying to reef them down to the point of breaking the screw.
 
So was just playing and the G string came loose (that's what she said ;). Turns out I have a new set of 1000 saddles in my tool draw. I replaced the E/B/G saddles with the 1000's, tried tuning up, and now all 3 strings will not stay locked. Tried both "normal" tight and very tight when locking them down - didn't matter. Just ordered some new titanium blocks from Amazon - same kind I bought before a few years ago (bought current ones elsewhere) and are woking fine in an older Jackson Soloist I have. If the new ones don't work, will just send them back and call it quits on this endeavor.
 
SweetPete said:
So was just playing and the G string came loose (that's what she said ;). Turns out I have a new set of 1000 saddles in my tool draw. I replaced the E/B/G saddles with the 1000's, tried tuning up, and now all 3 strings will not stay locked. Tried both "normal" tight and very tight when locking them down - didn't matter. Just ordered some new titanium blocks from Amazon - same kind I bought before a few years ago (bought current ones elsewhere) and are woking fine in an older Jackson Soloist I have. If the new ones don't work, will just send them back and call it quits on this endeavor.
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I wonder if string type/brand plays some role in this (ie: are there some string coatings that can make slippage more likely with the unwound strings).
 
SweetPete said:
So was just playing and the G string came loose (that's what she said ;). Turns out I have a new set of 1000 saddles in my tool draw. I replaced the E/B/G saddles with the 1000's, tried tuning up, and now all 3 strings will not stay locked. Tried both "normal" tight and very tight when locking them down - didn't matter. Just ordered some new titanium blocks from Amazon - same kind I bought before a few years ago (bought current ones elsewhere) and are woking fine in an older Jackson Soloist I have. If the new ones don't work, will just send them back and call it quits on this endeavor.
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Just curious - what benefit do you feel the titanium blocks are going to provide?
 
I am fairly certain that the Wolfgang Special's Floyd Rose is an EVH-branded FR1000 made in Korea. The Wolfgang Standard uses EVH-branded FR Specials, however. If the blocks that came with the guitar are not slipping, I would keep those in.

I have about 15~ Fender Wolfgang Specials for reference, but most are amalgamations of parts.
 
Unix-Guy, honestly - it just for looks. I like the look of the titanium against black. I think Floyd Rose sells a "hot-rod" Floyd that's setup the same way (except with stainless steel?). Plus my Special is gloss black, so IMHO it looks so cool ;) Plus, I'm endlessly tinkering with my guitars. My wife says I have 3 guitar "hobbies" - playing, collecting, tinkering ;)
 
Researching the made in Korea FR 1000 models wrt guitars I've been looking into - there's a bunch of different ones and not obvious to see the differences (I've not yet found any reference to differences in the blocks):
  • FR1000 Pro ($337Cdn) - Costs more but the FR Website doesn't really elaborate on differences between "pro" and "original style" below.
  • FR1000 Special ($142Cdn)- The website mentions "zync alloy instead of steel" which suggests the Pro and "original style" are steel. Lots of bad reviews on this one - best to avoid it seems.
  • FR1000 (original style) - only available to guitar manufacturers except for the equivalent burnt chrome model ($283Cdn), and I suspect the one with the EVH branding on Wolfgang specials (w D-Tuna Added), and also the one on the lefty guitar I'm currently looking at purchasing (Kramer Baretta Vintage). The FR1500 is also only available to manufacturers and appears on higher end guitars - mostly the same as the 1000 though except for stainless steel screws and push in bar.
Other than negative comments on the 1000 special, I've seen a few posts from people changing out a "1000 Pro" or "original style" to a made in Germany "orginal" ($314Cdn - Not sure whey this is cheaper than Pro) but no revelations of those being multiples better in terms of basic performance or of the Korean made ones having string slippage issues.
 
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sprint said:
Interested in this as I'm closing in on replacing my licenced FR guitar with one that has an FR1000 (from what I've been able to read, the EVHs are a rebranded 1000). I've never had saddle block issues with the licenced FR so a little concerned about buying into some.

Anyway - question: Do you guys think this issue can result from over tightening the strings at the saddle? How tight do you normally bolt them in?
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Yes, absolutely. You really don’t need to crank down on Floyd bolts, any of em. So many people think that “more tighter = better” and go all Hulk on the Allen wrenches. That’s just gonna cause problems.

I usually turn the bolts until I feel it start to grip, and then just give it a quick form twist to set the bolt. If that’s not enough to hold the string in place, then there’s something else wrong with the bridge (usually).
 
rossipedia said:
Yes, absolutely. You really don’t need to crank down on Floyd bolts, any of em. So many people think that “more tighter = better” and go all Hulk on the Allen wrenches. That’s just gonna cause problems.

I usually turn the bolts until I feel it start to grip, and then just give it a quick form twist to set the bolt. If that’s not enough to hold the string in place, then there’s something else wrong with the bridge (usually).
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You do need them to be pretty tight and Floyd told me that lock nuts should be squeaky tight. I have had people using the hex hider to tighten the nut and it isn't enough .
 
Maybe my definition of tight is different lol. If you find yourself stripping the hex wrench that's probably too tight
 
unix-guy said:
Just curious - what benefit do you feel the titanium blocks are going to provide?
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I use them on my PC-1. They last longer. The original black ones crack. A trade off is the string retention screws can mushroom in the titanium block so SS screws should be used.
 
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