Anyone still using a tube amp?

I was also wondering about the output transformer upgrade they offer. For 4, 8 and 16 ohm speakers. I am not knowledgeable enough to know if this is needed.
As to the tubes and speakers, I hear you for sure on that. For tubes I would likely leave them as is initially. But the speaker is another issue. I know vintage custom deluxe amps had Jensen, at least I think so. Newer ones have Eminence. But Weber speakers are also good choices. Either the

12A125-A, or 12A125-B

Not sure which of the two are "better". The "A" is more vintage spec, the "B" is more moderm spec. At least I think that is correct.
Typically, for this size of a guitar amp, you'd only "need" an 8-ohm tap. However, if you intend to add add'l speaker boxes, or use either 4- or 16-ohm speakers, you'd need that tap. Most often gtr apeakers for a single driver cab like a deluxe would likely use 8-ohm taps. This is entirely dependent on what ohm speaker you intend to use.

The 12A125-A is typically considered the one to use for a Deluxe, presuming you're looking for a more "vintage tone". Either are good speakers, but I prefer the "-A". I was not looking for a "modern" tone, as much as a "vintage" tone.

Most folks that are building, or buying, 5E3's, which are based on a late-50's amp design, are looking for a vintage spec amp, but that can entirely be up to what you want, if you're spec'ing out an amp to be built. Roll it like you wnat it :).
 
Typically, for this size of a guitar amp, you'd only "need" an 8-ohm tap. However, if you intend to add add'l speaker boxes, or use either 4- or 16-ohm speakers, you'd need that tap. Most often gtr apeakers for a single driver cab like a deluxe would likely use 8-ohm taps. This is entirely dependent on what ohm speaker you intend to use.

The 12A125-A is typically considered the one to use for a Deluxe, presuming you're looking for a more "vintage tone". Either are good speakers, but I prefer the "-A". I was not looking for a "modern" tone, as much as a "vintage" tone.

Most folks that are building, or buying, 5E3's, which are based on a late-50's amp design, are looking for a vintage spec amp, but that can entirely be up to what you want, if you're spec'ing out an amp to be built. Roll it like you wnat it :).
Several years ago I built a 5e3 kit from Trinity Amps out of Canada. I believe you can still get the kit from them. All top shelf components and their VRM module (voltage regulating) is the best thing since sliced bread IMO. I purchased a combo cab from Mojotone and went with a Weber Alnico speaker initially (12A125 I think). The amp sounded glorious (and still does- this one will be inherited by my children). Then, I discovered the Tweed Deluxe Speed Shop and purchased one of Rondo’s speakers (also made by Weber, but only available thru his website), and that speaker will be in this amp until I die. You can see/hear that speaker here: https://www.tweeddeluxe.com/speakers_a12q_alnico.cfm.
 
I was also wondering about the output transformer upgrade they offer. For 4, 8 and 16 ohm speakers. I am not knowledgeable enough to know if this is needed.
As to the tubes and speakers, I hear you for sure on that. For tubes I would likely leave them as is initially. But the speaker is another issue. I know vintage custom deluxe amps had Jensen, at least I think so. Newer ones have Eminence. But Weber speakers are also good choices. Either the

12A125-A, or 12A125-B

Not sure which of the two are "better". The "A" is more vintage spec, the "B" is more moderm spec. At least I think that is correct.
It gives you the taps to have multiple impedance jacks 4, 8, and 16 Ohms.

Being a geek dork, I would have to have the multi tap with the 3 impedance jacks.
 
Typically, for this size of a guitar amp, you'd only "need" an 8-ohm tap. However, if you intend to add add'l speaker boxes, or use either 4- or 16-ohm speakers, you'd need that tap. Most often gtr apeakers for a single driver cab like a deluxe would likely use 8-ohm taps. This is entirely dependent on what ohm speaker you intend to use.

The 12A125-A is typically considered the one to use for a Deluxe, presuming you're looking for a more "vintage tone". Either are good speakers, but I prefer the "-A". I was not looking for a "modern" tone, as much as a "vintage" tone.

Most folks that are building, or buying, 5E3's, which are based on a late-50's amp design, are looking for a vintage spec amp, but that can entirely be up to what you want, if you're spec'ing out an amp to be built. Roll it like you wnat it :).
I agree the A is more vintage for sure. Not knowing enough yet, but listening to clips of both on the Weber site, the 12a125-B (or is it S?) spoke to me a bit more. But that is strange as I generally prefer a more vintage, twangy tele tone. I will research further on this.
 
Several years ago I built a 5e3 kit from Trinity Amps out of Canada. I believe you can still get the kit from them. All top shelf components and their VRM module (voltage regulating) is the best thing since sliced bread IMO. I purchased a combo cab from Mojotone and went with a Weber Alnico speaker initially (12A125 I think). The amp sounded glorious (and still does- this one will be inherited by my children). Then, I discovered the Tweed Deluxe Speed Shop and purchased one of Rondo’s speakers (also made by Weber, but only available thru his website), and that speaker will be in this amp until I die. You can see/hear that speaker here: https://www.tweeddeluxe.com/speakers_a12q_alnico.cfm.
I will look into that speaker. Taking a quick look it looks and sounds interesting. Thanks for letting me know about it. And like api4u said above, I am definitely into trying out different tubes and speakers. You can never have too many speaker choices.
 
It gives you the taps to have multiple impedance jacks 4, 8, and 16 Ohms.

Being a geek dork, I would have to have the multi tap with the 3 impedance jacks.
The 4,8,16 output transformer is out of stock at the moment. I might look into swapping it in when it is in stock.
 
I will look into that speaker. Taking a quick look it looks and sounds interesting. Thanks for letting me know about it. And like api4u said above, I am definitely into trying out different tubes and speakers. You can never have too many speaker choices.
Another tip- in the 5e3, tube choice is critical, especially in position 1 and the power tubes. You’ll want a high quality, preferably NOS USA made12ay7 in spot #1, and the same for the power tubes. I use these: https://www.kcanostubes.com/content/nos-rca-6v6gt-vt-107a-blackplate.

I have purchased many times from Mike (KCA tubes) and have had great experience. But look around on eBay also.

If you choose to build a tweed deluxe, regardless of where you get the parts, checkout Rob Robinette’s site here: https://robrobinette.com/5e3_Modifications.htm. I have applied several of these mods to different builds (I have built several 5e3’s) and especially like the switched negative feedback mod.

And one last thing- most quality OT’s can handle a one step mismatch with no problem. Meaning, an 8 ohm tap will run a 16 or 4 ohm load, but a 16 ohm will only run an 8 but not a 4. This has been my experience and YRMV. There are impendence matchers if you’re a stickler for accuracy like here: https://www.tedweber.com/z-matcher/.
 
Another tip- in the 5e3, tube choice is critical, especially in position 1 and the power tubes. You’ll want a high quality, preferably NOS USA made12ay7 in spot #1, and the same for the power tubes. I use these: https://www.kcanostubes.com/content/nos-rca-6v6gt-vt-107a-blackplate.

I have purchased many times from Mike (KCA tubes) and have had great experience. But look around on eBay also.

If you choose to build a tweed deluxe, regardless of where you get the parts, checkout Rob Robinette’s site here: https://robrobinette.com/5e3_Modifications.htm. I have applied several of these mods to different builds (I have built several 5e3’s) and especially like the switched negative feedback mod.

And one last thing- most quality OT’s can handle a one step mismatch with no problem. Meaning, an 8 ohm tap will run a 16 or 4 ohm load, but a 16 ohm will only run an 8 but not a 4. This has been my experience and YRMV. There are impendence matchers if you’re a stickler for accuracy like here: https://www.tedweber.com/z-matcher/.
Thanks for that info. I will look into all three sites. Maybe even swap out the v1 and v3 tubes on the Blues Jr. that I bought during the pandemic, which overall I am unhappy with. Perhaps a tube swap on that might help, and be a good start for buying off of KCA.
 
My FM3 rig with a pair of modified/upgraded Headrush FRFR 108 mk2 speakers is amazing, plus I really love playing in stereo.

But I still use a tube amp for small rooms/gigs and small jams... I have a weird little tube rig that sounds huge, though only 18 watts. It's easy to drag around and setup and is super fun to play... The head is a Panama Fuego Hot Rod (18w, EL84) through a JBL MR812 cab loaded with a EVM 12L BlackLabel. One Hotone Ampero Mini in the efx loop and a pair of M-Vave Chocolate BT midi switchers each with an expression pedal (1 for Vol Ped and the other for Wah).

Panama.png
 
It is hard to believe but people using real tube amps do exist. And they don’t use them the proper way (examining to make models), but you know, play them! 🤯

And I know it because VP4 exists.
 
It is hard to believe but people using real tube amps do exist. And they don’t use them the proper way (examining to make models), but you know, play them! 🤯

And I know it because VP4 exists.
I still use mine And love them. With or without pedals clean or not. I have not modeled them and decided since I have them why would I. I have axe fx for amps I don’t have and I have tube amps because I just like them.
 
Last edited:
I still have a Brunetti Singleman 15w which i play mostly at home.
In the future i would like to have a sort of Dumble ODS clone
 
I have a few nice amps and I just bought a Supro Saturn Reverb so we’ll see how that one sounds. 😃

I mean I am all in on modelers and have been from way back, but there are times when an amp and pedals is the correct setup for the job. But when I can walk in with the little digital rig in a box and plug in and play it’s all good.
 
H&K was sold to Thomann "store". The things change.
Everything changes (except the fact that we will always pay tax to shite governments) 😬
I got my H&K about 12 years ago before the whole Thomann thing really took off. I changed the stock tubes for JJs and it has never let me down. A very versatile amp. Clearly not as versatile as Fractal of course.
 
Just saw this. Fractal kind of changes all previous mentations, but yes I like tubes. Had a Seymour Duncan 100W Convertible for 40 some years with a Celestion speaker, and I cleaned it up, replaced some tubes, matched of course, and gave it to my daughter's fiance. It has died and we are restoring it; talking to Seymour Duncan as they have all the major parts, and it is a part of history. Jeff Beck's and Eddie Van Halen's 'Signature' choice, right when Seymour decided to make only pick ups. RIP both of you Guitar God's.

Now it's a Mesa Boogie California Tweed, 12" Eminence speaker,and the Fractal Ultra in Front of it. III is on my Christmas List! But it is amazing.
Driving either one of the amps in a vintage Fender 2X12 with Celestion speakers, the sounds and tones that can be configured are just close to infinite.

The Fractal systems driving powered speakers in stereo on the list. Laney's look good.

A switcher to switch the Fractal to everything is also on the menu Any recipes?
 
My Triamp Mark 3 is pre-Thomann as well. It's a killer 6 channel amp with the switchable output tubes per channel!
 
Back
Top Bottom