Anyone remove rubber feet and end rubber to mount to board?

[gdgross]

Yep. just got a 1' x 2' piece of plywood, drilled the holes, countersunk from the bottom, and screwed right in. Hard mounted my volume pedal too. ;-)

I love how solid it feels. Will get some pics when it's final. I still need to figure out where I'm gonna hard mount my tap tempo switch and put a jack for an expression pedal.

edit - forgot to mention that I routed out some of the wood underneath the '9 to allow airflow and cable routing.

 

[The Muzicianist]

Yup. The factory screws aren't all that long (want to say, ½"?) so you may not need the longer lengths unless the Gator G-TOUR requires it. The simple solution is to remove the rubber feet and measure the screws. That way, you won't end up buying something that won't fit, or may need extra depth between the Gator board and the FC-12/EV-1s.

Wow, $118 for screwz and washerz to fully replace all factory onez. All stainless and black-oxide from McMaster...

 

[bleujazz3]

Wow, $118 for screwz and washerz to fully replace all factory onez. All stainless and black-oxide from McMaster...

You only need 4 on the bottom of each corner for FAS products. An FC-12 and 2 EV-1s is 12 screws and washers. Amazon is the better choice, & McMasters is only taking (read: ripping you off) your money. (FTR, I tried navigating the McMaster's website. Yikes.)

 

[The Muzicianist]

You only need 4 on the bottom of each corner for FAS products. An FC-12 and 2 EV-1s is 12 screws and washers. Amazon is the better choice, & McMasters is only taking (read: ripping you off) your money. (FTR, I tried navigating the McMaster's website. Yikes.)

When searching Amazon I couldn't find M6/40 at 25mm & 30mm in length. Additionally I have two rigz so double the hardware iz required.

 

[bleujazz3]

When searching Amazon I couldn't find M6/40 at 25mm & 30mm in length. Additionally I have two rigz so double the hardware iz required.

The reason you can't find them nowadays is because amazon has modified their search engine. Try a search for M6/40 in Tools & Home Improvement. I trust you can find them.

Here's what came up when I searched from my previous order...

Click Here

You could try the Monsterbolts Store on amazon as well..

Monsterbolts

EDIT: I've just posted a question on the Monsterbolts page about availability of fully-threaded M6/40 1-¼" hex socket screws. Hopefully, we'll hear back in a day of so. The longest M6/40 screw I could find was a ⅞" one. You may need to try to countersink your board to allow for this length.

 

[The Muzicianist]

The reason you can't find them in metric is because the lengths are measured in inches. Try a search for M6/40 and modify your search. I trust you can find them.

This iz what I just found on Amazon.

 

[bleujazz3]

This iz what I just found on Amazon.

Try this search page instead, for Monsterbolts or view my previous post and the 'Click Here':

Monsterbolts

EDIT: The screws I purchased don't say M6/40. They're #6/40 ⅜'s". Try this or #6/40 ⅞"instead. Will need to confirm with my home improvement store where I purchased the M6/40s if these are the actual compatible ones or not.

 

[unix-guy]

So far only @bleujazz3 has reported using these #6/40 screws.

Search for "M3.5-.60".

To mount on a Temple Audio board you would need the 16mm screws. The Temple board with a washer is maybe 1mm thick.

Note that this is WITH the feet staying on.

 

[bleujazz3]

So far only @bleujazz3 has reported using these #6/40 screws.

Search for "M3.5-.60".

To mount on a Temple Audio board you would need the 16mm screws. The Temple board with a washer is maybe 1mm thick.

Note that this is WITH the feet staying on.

It's entirely possible that M3.5-.60 16mm are the metric screw equivalents that will work.

When I located the M6/40 ⅜" and paired them up with the factory screws (the home improvement store had a plate on the wall that was filled with threaded holes for the sole purpose of matching screws folks brought in, but did not know the thread or size of the screws offhand.) this helped me figure out what size and thread count to look for...otherwise without a guide to locate the correct screw, I'd just need to keep guessing...

If @unix-guy has already matched the size and thread count as well as the length, I see no reason why you couldn't use an M3.5-.60 16mm screw. Just remember that the screws are supposed to be paired with washers, and you'll need the washers as well, otherwise the screw head will not seat securely and hold the FM9 in place on the board.

I like the idea of keeping the rubber feet on the FM9, if the 16mm are long enough to securely hold the FM9 on the board. I might actually take @unix-guy up on this idea and see if the 16mm will allow me to fasten both FM9 & EV-1 (yes?) with rubber feet on the board.

 

[unix-guy]

It's entirely possible that M3.5-.60 16mm are the metric screw equivalents that will work.

When I located the M6/40 ⅜" and paired them up with the factory screws (the home improvement store had a plate on the wall that was filled with threaded holes for the sole purpose of matching screws folks brought in, but did not know the thread or size of the screws offhand.) this helped me figure out what size and thread count to look for...otherwise without a guide to locate the correct screw, I'd just need to keep guessing...

If @unix-guy has already matched the size and thread count as well as the length, I see no reason why you couldn't use an M3.5-.60 16mm screw. Just remember that the screws are supposed to be paired with washers, and you'll need the washers as well, otherwise the screw head will not seat securely and hold the FM9 in place on the board.

I like the idea of keeping the rubber feet on the FM9, if the 16mm are long enough to securely hold the FM9 on the board. I might actually take @unix0guy up on this idea and see if the 16mm will allow me to fasten both FM9 & EV-1 (yes?) with rubber feet on the board.

Yeah... Somebody else did the hard work. I just took the info and ran with it.

And I'm sure you're probably right, these screws are equivalents between metric and imperial.

 

[bleujazz3]

Yeah... Somebody else did the hard work. I just took the info and ran with it.

And I'm sure you're probably right, these screws are equivalents between metric and imperial.

Yup, remind me to doff my Wellies before entering the house again...seems like I don't want to clean the floor more than once today...anyway, I found an alternate direction to take with the M6/40 screws...some M3.5-.60's are on order and will allow me to keep the "rubber feet" (the Wellies reference) so the FM9 can stay secure on a raised platform while the Temple board sits evenly.

My only concern is, my Studio Slips gigbag was ordered with an extra ¾ to 1" height to allow for extra space.

Will adding the rubber feet back to the FM9 increase the height of the board significantly? If so, it may be necessary to return to utilizing the FM9 sans the rubber feet. Will measure the thickness of the feet pads tomorrow to obtain a better estimate.

 

[The Muzicianist]

Yup, remind me to doff my Wellies before entering the house again...seems like I don't want to clean the floor more than once today...anyway, I found an alternate direction to take with the M6/40 screws...some M3.5-.60's are on order and will allow me to keep the "rubber feet" (the Wellies reference) so the FM9 can stay secure on a raised platform while the Temple board sits evenly.

My only concern is, my Studio Slips gigbag was ordered with an extra ¾ to 1" height to allow for extra space.

Will adding the rubber feet back to the FM9 increase the height of the board significantly? If so, it may be necessary to return to utilizing the FM9 sans the rubber feet. Will measure the thickness of the feet pads tomorrow to obtain a better estimate.

So I received my M6/40z and they aren't the correct size. After another measurement they are likely #6/40. I will need to confirm this but figured I'd put it out there that theze are likely standard and should be noted.

 

[Sixstring]

McMasters is only taking (read: ripping you off) your money. (FTR, I tried navigating the McMaster's website. Yikes.)

Using McMaster carr is not for the faint of heart! My previous job I dealt with then quite a bit. They do have a lot of things that are otherwise hard to sorse, screws are not one of them. Granger is another that is really proud of wat they sell when it comes to price.

 

[Sixstring]

I tried the heavy duty velcro to end cap rubber pieces but they don't stick as well as they would to the metal as well as having a flat surface to mount would be nice.
Anyone take those rubber end caps off to mount o a pedal board? And the rubber feet -shallow screw needed (like Ax8) or same one work?

Di you come up with a solution to mount your board?

 

[bleujazz3]

So I received my M6/40z and they aren't the correct size. After another measurement they are likely #6/40. I will need to confirm this but figured I'd put it out there that theze are likely standard and should be noted.

My friend, I'm not sure what to tell you...the hardware store had them listed as M6/40s. Apparently, M6/40s are available only up unto ⅞" lengths, which may be the reason the numbers didn't match up when you tried ordering.

I'm gonna step back and let @unix-guy guide you by suggesting to keep the rubber feet on, and choose M3.5-0.60 16mm screws. I've got several sets of the 16mms arriving in the next day or so, and will report once I've tried re-assembling my board with the 16mm screws.

Because the M6/40 screws didn't work for you, and I trust @unix-guy's advice, I'd be more than happy to make up for your loss and send you how many 16mm screws you might need. I think I can spare about a dozen of 'em if this will set us straight.

 

[Prince]

If anyone needs some M3.5x0.6mm 16mm long screws, I recently purchased 100 from McMaster-Carr. If you want like 8 screws, just paypal/venmo me like $2 and I can ship it out to you.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3292

 

[Greg Ferguson]

The simple solution is to remove the rubber feet and measure the screws.

The simple solution is to remove one screw and measure it. There’s no reason to remove them all or the bumper.

 

[Greg Ferguson]

It's entirely possible that M3.5-.60 16mm are the metric screw equivalents that will work.

And I'm sure you're probably right, these screws are equivalents between metric and imperial.

They’re the same size, just converted to metric.

To experiment I got some of these:

Amazon product ASIN B07BYW6BVQ along with the appropriate washers.

I removed the screws from the bumpers only, leaving the bumpers attached. The hole spacing on the Temple Audio Duo 24 boards is correct to fit the FM9 or FC12, and I’d assume would work with the larger boards too. I didn’t check the FM3 or FC6. You can center the FM9 on the board by counting in six holes from either end looking at the board from the bottom.

Start with two opposite corners and get the screws started, then do the two remaining screws, then tighten them. The fit is exact and takes a little while to get things lined up. Once all four screws are started you can tighten them a little, wiggle the unit, tighten some more, and repeat until everything is snug. It wouldn’t hurt to put a drop of nail polish or blue Loktite on the screw heads to keep them from loosing. Do NOT use red Loktite.

---

Here's a photo of the bottom of the board. I didn't get it centered left-right when I attached the unit. I was lazy and didn't count right… er… I was out of town when that happened.

Zoom into the first photo and you can count the holes between the corners to more easily figure out where the screws will sit. By doing that you can more easily visualize the layout once you get everything screwed down.

Getting the screws through the board and centered in the bumper holes, while maintaining their perpendicular orientation to the chassis was… "fun". I started them with my fingers so that if I got them cross-threaded it wouldn't be with enough force to strip the threads in the chassis. Eventually I got them all in place, then slowly tightened them with a hex wrench until they were all firmly seated. That's when I realized the FM9 wasn't centered so I said "f*ckit" in spite of my OCD tendencies. I can show progress.

 

[bleujazz3]

They’re the same size, just converted to metric.

To experiment I got some of these:

Amazon product ASIN B07BYW6BVQ along with the appropriate washers.

I removed the screws from the bumpers only, leaving the bumpers attached. The hole spacing on the Temple Audio Duo 24 boards is correct to fit the FM9 or FC12, and I’d assume would work with the larger boards too. I didn’t check the FM3 or FC6. You can center the FM9 on the board by counting in six holes from either end.

Start with two opposite corners and get the screws started, then do the two remaining screws, then tighten them. The fit is exact and takes a little while to get things lined up. Once all four screws are started you can tighten them a little, wiggle the unit, tighten some more, and repeat until everything is snug. It wouldn’t hurt to put a drop of nail polish or blue Loktite on the screw heads to keep them from loosing. Do NOT use red Loktite.

THANK you for this updated information.

I think if I can find the #6/40 16mm or possibly ⅞", attaching the rubber feet might hold firm. On amazon, the longest length #6/40 screw available is the ⅞".

Meanwhile, I've got some M3.5-.6 16 mm arriving this weekend. And I tried checking with my local hardware store to see if they had these in stock to get a head start on how the 16mm might work. Nada.

So it might be well worth my effort to revisit my home improvement store north of me. If they have either the M3.5-.6 16 mm, or #6-40 x ⅞", that might work for attaching the FM9 to my TA board with the rubber feet still on.

One question Greg, though. Did you put thin #6 washers between the board and screw head?

 

[Greg Ferguson]

THANK you for this updated information.

I think if I can find the #6/40 16mm or possibly ⅞", attaching the rubber feet might hold firm. […]

Might hold firm? How is the screw connecting to the chassis going to change holding ability if the bumper is in place? It’s the same connection either way.

[…] Did you put thin #6 washers between the board and screw head?

Yes. The head is too close to the size of the perforations in the Temple Audio board to trust. I’d prefer a bit wider washers but these should work.

With the Temple Audio boards, I suspect it’s not even necessary to buy different screws if the bumpers are removed. Without the bumpers the factory screws should reach through the board and into the chassis with enough extra length to accommodate a regular thickness washer. I didn’t try that, it’s something I thought about after the fact.