5150 Presence Knob

Do You Want the 5150 Presence Control to be Authentic?

  • Yes

    Votes: 160 36.6%
  • No

    Votes: 277 63.4%

  • Total voters
    437
Why recreate the problems?I am baffled by this. The amps exist. If you want them and their problems go get them.
I want to move onward and upward with a new, better platform.

I've used 5150's for YEARS and I never thought it was a "problem" to create great tones to be honest. I don't think it has been either in the thousands of albums in which it has been used.
 
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Towards 20mA for sure for me. I remember some comparison tests and 18mA even sounds killer. Some came out the factory even lower (like 14mA or so), not sure I’ve ever heard of a 5150 being close to 30mA without being serviced and having the resistor either swapped for another value or modded for a bias adjustment pot. 25mA is probably as high as I’d go but it’s all personal preference and dependent on the valves/voltages etc. My preference would be 18-20mA (knowing what bias values correspond to that would be awesome to know if possible!)
I think the hotter bias mod was made famous by Bob at Eurotubes but most of the metal guys are probably had it cold a lot of the modern high gainers they bias cold
A to tighten
B cause current tube production is terrible
I think 24-25 Ma would be an in the middle compromise
 
I think the hotter bias mod was made famous by Bob at Eurotubes but most of the metal guys are probably had it cold a lot of the modern high gainers they bias cold
A to tighten
B cause current tube production is terrible
I think 24-25 Ma would be an in the middle compromise
I think higher gain tones generally sound better with a cooler bias, and obviously 5150’s have a ton of gain. but 5150’s just particularly have their distinctive and recognisable tone with that really really cold bias. IMO it’s just part of the sound we recognise.

Seen it time and time again when people add a choke, upgrade the transformers, add a bias pot and bias warm and then it sounds mushy, undefined and loses the 5150 magic.

This is most true for the first 2 amps, they just sound more aggressive and tight, and the bite has extra bite on it.

I have less strong opinions on the Fender/EVH 5150’s bias. In the UK so many people are unwittingly running them too hot because they need the wires changed on the power transformer for 240V (all Fender stuff arrives in europe set for 220V, they use seperate taps for 220V and 240V). When set up properly for 240V they sound and behave much nicer
 
First…. You make excellent IR’s that I use in most of my presets. Respect. 👍

But, besides the tapers on the Fractal compared to the actual amp… is the amp sim ‘not’ authentic to the actual amp being modeled?
Plus, there’s drift and sometimes different pots (and whatever else) manufactures use in the same model amp.
ex: Cliff models his great JCM 800… but, so and so also has a 800, same year and everything, no mods… and plays the same guitar (pickups included) yet, when matching settings… they sound different.
Then there’s the mighty cabinet that enters the equation, and if it’s a recorded sound .. mic, mic placement, engineering, post processing … blah blah blah lol

Sorry for playing Captain Obvious… you already know all this sh!t 😄

Also, many of us have never played the real amp before (could be for various reasons) but now we have the option to try / use them… get a sound we like that works for us.
I like Mesa Mark series amp tones, but never owned one. I was a Marshall guy for years. So to me, coming from where I was they’re counter intuitive and annoying to dial in.., so you look into it, and if you land on ‘it’ and get that ‘proper’ sound… it’s a great amp.
Certainly nobody here has actually played all the amps modeled in the Fractal.

While I understand the want for the ‘authentic’ idea, isn’t ‘ideal’ used throughout the rest of the controls in the Fractal… effects included?

I mentioned it here earlier, but I’ll say it again in different words…

Electric guitarists, more than any other instrument, listen to much with their eyes IMO. Option paralysis doesn’t help. Yet we play the most expressive and versatile instrument in the world.
Thanks for the kind words about my IRs. :) It's true that two identical amps will probably sound a little different due to component drift, but they should be in the same ballpark when set similarly. My '77 50w JMP sounds nearly identical to the Brit 800 2204 model with the knobs in the same place; and only needs minor tweaks to get them indistinguishable. The same can be said for my Soldano. Mirror the real amp settings on the Fractal and you're 90-95% there on a lot of models.

For the 5150, if I have my real amp's presence at 7.5 and set the Fractal's presence to 7.5, there's a major difference in tone that makes the model sound broken. If you're familiar with the amp, you'd say the model isn't accurate after inputting your usual settings. A player would need to be an avid reader on this forum to know that the presence taper isn't authentic on some models.

Making it authentic across the board means that players who KNOW the real amps will find familiarity quicker; and people copying their favorite player's amp settings from a picture they saw will likely translate better.

Someone mentioned making the FAS 6160 the "idealized" 5150. That sounds like a great idea! Keep normal amp models fully authentic and the FAS versions can be idealized.
 
lighter skills GIF


I Prefer accurate/authentic if given the choice.
 
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Why nobody's complaining about the Brit 2203 Presence range?
0-9 has LESS range in dB than 9-10, yet nobody's asking for an ideal presence pot for the Brit 2203.

I declare this poll a complete bullshit, the vast majority of voters side with Fractal by default and actually couldn't care less either way.

2203 Presence:
2203.png
 
I don’t think anyone who uses a 5150 thinks the presence pot is broken either, everyone knows it’s weird and doesn’t do much for most of the taper, but I don’t think I’ve heard of anyone changing the presence pot as a mod. Everyone puts it around 8 and calls it a day (although with most load boxes people tend to set them a little higher).

It’s part of the amps design, for better or worse it is what it is and contributed to the amp becoming iconic (literally too…)
 
In trying to look at this completely objectively and never having owned or played through the actual amp before… I’d side with the “authentic” crowd for a couple reasons.

It will meet the expectations of people who are familiar with the actual amp.

For those like me, I have no frame of reference otherwise. I tend to try max and min in most settings to figure them out and would probably realize I liked the presence cranked in this amp and wouldn’t really care that it seems higher than most other amps - because that’s how this amp sounds good to me.
 
I think higher gain tones generally sound better with a cooler bias, and obviously 5150’s have a ton of gain. but 5150’s just particularly have their distinctive and recognisable tone with that really really cold bias. IMO it’s just part of the sound we recognise.

Seen it time and time again when people add a choke, upgrade the transformers, add a bias pot and bias warm and then it sounds mushy, undefined and loses the 5150 magic.

This is most true for the first 2 amps, they just sound more aggressive and tight, and the bite has extra bite on it.

I have less strong opinions on the Fender/EVH 5150’s bias. In the UK so many people are unwittingly running them too hot because they need the wires changed on the power transformer for 240V (all Fender stuff arrives in europe set for 220V, they use seperate taps for 220V and 240V). When set up properly for 240V they sound and behave much nicer
Yep I agree the coveted Block Letter that many regard as the best of Peaveys 5150 some of thier signature tone came from the cold bias
I know KSR does this too
 
Authentic because, as others have stated, that is the way the reference amp is and keeps more in line with Fractals modeling ethos. And while there are exceptions to that, such as the Mark series graphic EQ sliders
Actually my referece to Mark GEQ above was the opposite - Its the one taper I think really needs to be authentic given its visilbility / popularity - the rest can be ideal for me since I've not owned any physical tube amps represented in Axfx (so I don't know the authentic tapers anyway).
 
Authentic. Because if you name a model after a real world amp, less informed people will assume the controls are authentically modeled. And most people are less informed. I feel like idealizing them is kinda nudging (barely) into the FAS Models' thing.

With all that said, I'll be fine with either.
 
Why nobody's complaining about the Brit 2203 Presence range?
0-9 has LESS range in dB than 9-10, yet nobody's asking for an ideal presence pot for the Brit 2203.

I declare this poll a complete bullshit, the vast majority of voters side with Fractal by default and actually couldn't care less either way.

2203 Presence:
View attachment 130816

Because no one in the entire history of the universe has ever played a Marshall with the presence set to any value other than 10?
 
Towards 20mA for sure for me. I remember some comparison tests and 18mA even sounds killer. Some came out the factory even lower (like 14mA or so), not sure I’ve ever heard of a 5150 being close to 30mA without being serviced and having the resistor either swapped for another value or modded for a bias adjustment pot. 25mA is probably as high as I’d go but it’s all personal preference and dependent on the valves/voltages etc. My preference would be 18-20mA (knowing what bias values correspond to that would be awesome to know if possible!)
Rev. D of the schematic which was Jan. 15 2013 specs 30mA per tube. This was changed to 27.5 mA per tube somewhere between then and Dec. 11 2015. There apparently haven't been any changes to that spec since. So in the past 10 years every amp shipped has been at least 27.5 mA.
 
The presence knob has been incredibly annoying on all the hardware units I've owned in my life (5150 BL, 5150 Sig, 6505, 6505+). As you said, it's practically useless up until you hit the 7-8 range. Gimme a smoother response any day of the week.
 
Actually my referece to Mark GEQ above was the opposite - Its the one taper I think really needs to be authentic given its visilbility / popularity - the rest can be ideal for me since I've not owned any physical tube amps represented in Axfx (so I don't know the authentic tapers anyway).
Hi sprint, I actually hadn't read your post when I was referencing other users, however upon reading it, I do you think you raise some good points. It was actually just about my perceived ethos of Fractal when it comes to modeling. When I was talking about the Mark GEQ, I was just stating that they are idealized. Perhaps I could've written more clearly. Anyhow, I do agree, really interesting stuff.
 
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