greiswig
Power User
It's not, or at least not without substantial mods to the panel. But yeah, anything is possible. For now I'll just put up with reading upside down and navigating backwards.It’s probably doable. I haven’t opened mine to see.
It's not, or at least not without substantial mods to the panel. But yeah, anything is possible. For now I'll just put up with reading upside down and navigating backwards.It’s probably doable. I haven’t opened mine to see.
That’s a symptom of setting the EQ at too low of a volume.boomy in the lows and harsh on the highs.
When tweaking tone at low volume levels, a player often turns up treble and bass. This is what the "Loudness" switch on older home stereo systems did.
When the volume is turned up, those high and low frequencies get harsh and boomy. That guitar sound then competes with cymbals, and will lose. Also, the guitar competes with the bass guitar, and will lose.
That’s a symptom of setting the EQ at too low of a volume.
See Fletcher-Munson or more information:
That won't really be an option as the amp is secured to the bottom of the cabinet to the plate plus the speaker basket would possibly interfere with the amp as well.It’s probably doable. I haven’t opened mine to see.
Are you still happy with the EV's? I'm currently researching cabinets/monitors to use with my new FM9 for home/rehearsals/gigs. I'm coming from the tube amp world, so I'm trying to get something that would be similar. I realize you're never going to get 100% guitar cab thump and feel. A few years ago, I tried going the L6 Helix route. I tried a Headrush monitor and a Laney LFR 112 active cab. I was never happy with either. Maybe I just didn't give myself enough time to really dial them in. Something about the weird high frequency sound when the tweeter is separate from the main speaker. I see the EV is using a different coaxial speaker, which supposedly helps with this issue.My one remaining gripe with these speakers is part of the compromise EV had to make to create such a light cabinet. There is definitely a reason that many cabinets are made with 18-ply birch plywood, which is bloody heavy. I'm sure the panels on these PXM's is a fraction of that thickness, and probably MDF.
Anyway, there is some noticeable panel resonance that occurs, even at moderate volumes. I think the bottom is the primary culprit, since you can knock on it and hear a ring right around the area that I hear a boxiness in the response of the cabinet that is not present on my studio monitors...400Hz or so. There are also two side panels that rang pretty well when you struck them, too.
I quick trip to Home Despot to get some 3/8" dowel rod, and I fixed that issue.
View attachment 92759
Basically, I used a trick I've used on subwoofer cabinets I used to make, creating some scaffolding inside the speaker to counterbrace opposing panels and break up resonances...or at least push them higher in frequency and force a lot less amplitude.
I also added a little more batting in one corner. I'm very pleased with the results. I used to have to notch a bit at that 400Hz area, and now it sounds great without it. It seems to have a bit more oomph in the lows and low mids, too, but that could be imagination. In any case, it was a pretty easy modification with excellent results.
I'm quite happy with them. Do they sound the same as my studio monitors or my guitar cabinets? No. Do they work well and are they loud enough? Definitely.Are you still happy with the EV's? I'm currently researching cabinets/monitors to use with my new FM9 for home/rehearsals/gigs. I'm coming from the tube amp world, so I'm trying to get something that would be similar. I realize you're never going to get 100% guitar cab thump and feel. A few years ago, I tried going the L6 Helix route. I tried a Headrush monitor and a Laney LFR 112 active cab. I was never happy with either. Maybe I just didn't give myself enough time to really dial them in. Something about the weird high frequency sound when the tweeter is separate from the main speaker. I see the EV is using a different coaxial speaker, which supposedly helps with this issue.
Have you tried the Red Sound MF.10? I'm curious how they compare.I'm quite happy with them. Do they sound the same as my studio monitors or my guitar cabinets? No. Do they work well and are they loud enough? Definitely.
No, I haven't. I have Yamaha DXR10s, I've had Atomic CLR's (Neo and non neo), and an RCF 12" coaxial. I prefer the EV, but you are still best off trying it yourself.Have you tried the Red Sound MF.10? I'm curious how they compare.
My only problem is that I can't try them. I have no dealers nearby. I'd have to buy before trying.No, I haven't. I have Yamaha DXR10s, I've had Atomic CLR's (Neo and non neo), and an RCF 12" coaxial. I prefer the EV, but you are still best off trying it yourself.
The MF is pretty popularMy only problem is that I can't try them. I have no dealers nearby. I'd have to buy before trying.
I don’t think you can go wrong either way to be honest the reviews are good and pretty even for bothI just went ahead and ordered the EV. Fingers crossed it works out.
You wont regret it!I just went ahead and ordered the EV. Fingers crossed it works out.
How did you secure the dowel rod?My one remaining gripe with these speakers is part of the compromise EV had to make to create such a light cabinet. There is definitely a reason that many cabinets are made with 18-ply birch plywood, which is bloody heavy. I'm sure the panels on these PXM's is a fraction of that thickness, and probably MDF.
Anyway, there is some noticeable panel resonance that occurs, even at moderate volumes. I think the bottom is the primary culprit, since you can knock on it and hear a ring right around the area that I hear a boxiness in the response of the cabinet that is not present on my studio monitors...400Hz or so. There are also two side panels that rang pretty well when you struck them, too.
I quick trip to Home Despot to get some 3/8" dowel rod, and I fixed that issue.
View attachment 92759
Basically, I used a trick I've used on subwoofer cabinets I used to make, creating some scaffolding inside the speaker to counterbrace opposing panels and break up resonances...or at least push them higher in frequency and force a lot less amplitude.
I also added a little more batting in one corner. I'm very pleased with the results. I used to have to notch a bit at that 400Hz area, and now it sounds great without it. It seems to have a bit more oomph in the lows and low mids, too, but that could be imagination. In any case, it was a pretty easy modification with excellent results.
I'm not @greiswig, but from the pic it looks like there's some silicone at the ends and where they cross.How did you secure the dowel rod?
@unix-guy for the win. I wanted something that was easily reversible. It has held up fine, though. Basic concept is to cross-brace asymmetrically so you are not accidentally coupling modes or nodes. Easiest way to think about it is to avoid where you would try for harmonics on a string. So not dead center, not 1/3, etc.Probably hot glue...
hopefully that link works.What is the issue that I'm listening for? I just got my EV and few days ago, so I'm wondering if it has this Distortion issue.