NGD: Schecter Sun Valley Super Shredder Exotic

I've hesitated because i am so close. The tuning issues are slight, I can slightly put pressure with my body and change tuning, it's slight. my other 2 - S guitars don't respond that way. Neck is tight, trem level, springs good.
I've made more adjustments to lower the posts and have the neck more curved that has helped, maybe even solved.
But without locking the smaller allen bolt, i can wobble the trem bolts ( no tension), don't appear to wobble when locked .The other 2 guitars don't have the small lock bolt and they don't wobble.
The Gotoh stud is an M8 metric thread. Forget the titanium anything on a Floyd . Get an M8 bolt and see if it fits in your body studs if it does your are good to go. Also adding relief to your neck will rase the action and that it why your notes seem better. You should measure that action that you like, reset the truss rod to the correct relief and then adjust the action back to the measurement you took earlier. Excess relief will cause issues in the high register .It will be what you think is fret level problems bending. It is seriously unlikely that a new Ibanez has fret level issues when the geometry is correct.
Finally some pieces of wood bend more easily which is what you describe with the pitch change.
 
Sii amigo’s , there were unlevel frets absolutely, whether from factory, delivery from USA to CR in a soft gig bag, n cardboard box, a Fri afternoon batch, humidity or the different woods. Frets were messed, not horribly, but needed levelling.
Sii also, I don’t adjust the 2 studs under tension now, but did initially. Tuning stability seems good now that I have been able to lower the studs. I have another guitar set perfect to refer to, so I knew where to end up. Also I did change to 10-46, but I’ve done that on 3 other guitars, adjusting spring tension and slight neck adjustment. This one was very finicky. But I learned a ton in doing so. Gracias 🙏
 
What are your tuning issues? That is a budget trem but I can always get it to work 100%. The best post available is the locking Gotoh one that is standard on the 1996 and the slightly different cut version for the Edge and Edge pro also Gotoh. Titanium is a totally unsuitable metal for this application .
I've made soooo many parts for fighter jets out of titanium. @Andy Eagle is right. Titanium is a tough (not hard) and light weight metal but it cannot be case hardened. High carbon steel can. I always laugh when I see companies use it as a marketing gimmick. There is absolutely no benefit using this material unless it involves weight reduction or corrosion/ heat resistance.
 
You won't like unstringing it. Sometimes wraps can get stuck in the tuner and then you need wire cutters and pliers. On balance I think it is a bad idea. I think that if you do this often resigning a Floyd is no issue and hardly any more time than anything else. In fact easier than quite a few bridges I could name. I would not recommend much in this video.
 
I've made soooo many parts for fighter jets out of titanium. @Andy Eagle is right. Titanium is a tough (not hard) and light weight metal but it cannot be case hardened. High carbon steel can. I always laugh when I see companies use it as a marketing gimmick. There is absolutely no benefit using this material unless it involves weight reduction or corrosion/ heat resistance.
Hurray, somebody who really knows about metals and their uses. I blame the Robocop film with the titanium armour. That would work almost as well as the FU upgrades. :tearsofjoy:
 
Hurray, somebody who really knows about metals and their uses. I blame the Robocop film with the titanium armour. That would work almost as well as the FU upgrades. :tearsofjoy:
The only titanium armour I'm aware of is used in the A10 warthog. The pilot actually sits in what they call a titanium bathtub to shield from ground fire since it's a close support aircraft. Another interesting fact about titanium is the dust from grinding/polishing is flammable and burns white hot. Not as volatile as magnesium mind you but a titanium fire is absolutely no joke. But it is used in parts for thrust reversers and ductwork for jet turbines so I'm guessing its only the dust and ultra thin stuff that burns. I'm not sure.
 
Last edited:
You won't like unstringing it. Sometimes wraps can get stuck in the tuner and then you need wire cutters and pliers. On balance I think it is a bad idea. I think that if you do this often resigning a Floyd is no issue and hardly any more time than anything else. In fact easier than quite a few bridges I could name. I would not recommend much in this video.

Thanks for the warning about the wraps. I have restrung but didn't experience that problem. I'm always looking for anything to make restringing faster, having been spoiled by the Speedloader system. :)
 
I bought this a week ago, and it's really everything I was looking for in a Super Strat (not in order):

  • Fender-Style Non-Angled Headstock
  • Straight String Pull at the Nut
  • A Floating Locking Trem that actually returns to Zero
  • Good Sustain
  • A Lack of Dead or Wolf Notes
  • Good Tone
  • Stainless Steel Frets
  • Cool Pickups
  • Some semblance of Strat quack

The neck is something I find just shockingly comfortable: it's a tad thicker than my other guitar (Washburn Trevor Rabin), and I love it. I once played a Fender Strat from the 80s with a Kahler (found in a New Mexico pawn shop), and it had the thickest neck I've ever played, this monstrous thing with almost a right angle at the fingerboard, very D-shaped. I have big hands and assumed it would be uncomfortable, but five minutes later I realized it was the most comfortable neck I had ever felt. Anyway, this Schecter neck is not anywhere near that thick (and it's a C-shape), but I do just love the feel of it. I'm finding that all along the neck it just lends itself to much easier play. The fingerboard has a nice 12" - 16" compound radius.

Speaking of the fingerboard, I just love the inlays. My favorite inlays have always been that offset style, where you have a dot between the low E and A strings, and this is a play off of that idea, except, in a really cool twist, they made the dots bigger, turned them into outlines, and, in the most unusual part, inlayed them with aluminum! In person it's just very striking. Additionally, there are Luminlay side markers. I'm a big fan of ebony, and this has an ebony fingerboard, attached to the wenge neck. Now this is a huge thing too: the neck has a texture to it but is still so smooth and comfortable, with no finish I can feel. It just feels like wonderfully polished wood, for lack of a better term. I don't know anything about wenge, but at least it feels incredible, and the tone and sustain of the instrument is superb.

The guitar came with 9 - 46s, but I like 10 - 46s, so I did a proper setup and switched to my preferred gauge right away. I lowered the action lower than I would want it just to test the fretwork, and it was just great, no problems at all. Then I raised it to the action I like, low enough not to fight the guitar, but high enough still to have the tone I like. To do my initial testing I released the trem spring tension and put business cards on the side of the sustain block away from the neck to level the trem baseplate. I then measured the height of the trem posts and figured out how many 64ths of an inch I'd want to move up or down, having also measured the action of the low and high E strings in 64ths. Then I loosened the spring claw screws, removed the bridge entirely (with the strings still on), and adjusted the trem post heights, also applying Big Bends Nut Sauce to the divots where the knife edges rest. I reattached the trem, set it up with loosened claw springs and the business cards, tuned and stretched the strings until stable, then removed the business cards and just adjusted the spring screws until the guitar was in tune again. I found rearranging the springs somewhat helped with achieving a good balance of tension between the treble and bass sides of the spring claw. I find during the spring tension process I like to do a ton of dives, pull ups, and regular string bends to test constantly that I'm returning to zero; taking time with this part yields so much return.

To the tone, I really like the in house pickups. I had to write Schecter for the wiring (which I've attached), because position 2 (counting bridge as position 1) was a little ambiguous to me. Position 2 is heavenly, just pure quack. It's a wiring position I wouldn't have thought to prioritize, the outer coil of the neck with the inner of the bridge, but I just completely love it. It has a .022 cap on the tone, which is nice and gives a good range. I'd go lower, but I don't want to mess with it any time soon. The pots themselves feel really solid and comfortable; I have no idea what they used, but they do feel high quality.

I'm finding tones so damn easily to dial in once I got this axe. I had this silly assumption that Floyds always suck tone and sustain no matter what, but I did so many tests when I found this thing at the store, including sustaining every note on every string. I really don't perceive anything missing at all, and I'm kicking myself for my assumption.

I initially had a problem in which dives would return to zero but pull ups returned a little sharp. I subscribe to the Haze Guitars newsletter and wrote Gerry, who was really nice and recommended checking the nut for movement. Right away I saw that at the factory they had started to strip the two mounting screws for the nut (it's a top mount). I then very very carefully tried to tighten them further, which I found I was able to do, and that solved the sharp return for bar pull ups. I'm sure they were using a drill to drive the screws in at the factory, saw the stripping starting, then just left it rather than going the rest of the way or doing what they should have done, grabbing a new set of screws!

Anyway, I'm in heaven with this thing, and I can't believe it has stainless steel frets at this price point. I would expect all sorts of problems, but the only one I found was fixed a turn of the screw. Here's my dream guitar on my balcony:

View attachment 83517

Buddha approved!! :)

Congrats, that's a sharp guitar.
 
Thanks for the warning about the wraps. I have restrung but didn't experience that problem. I'm always looking for anything to make restringing faster, having been spoiled by the Speedloader system. :)
It only happens some times and with some brands of strings but it's a PITA when it does.
 
It only happens some times and with some brands of strings but it's a PITA when it does.

That totally makes sense. I was shocked that although he blocks the trem for restringing, he doesn't keep it blocked for the rest of the setup! That did make me more skeptical of his other ideas. For a Floyd setup from scratch, I loosen the spring claw, put business cards in the back until the baseplate is parallel to the body, string it up with the desired gauge, stretch the strings, lock the nut, remove the business cards, then adjust the spring claw until the guitar is in tune. I'll check 4ths and 5ths then to ensure the balance is as good as possible for diving and pulling up. I cannot stand the idea of tuning and retuning 1,000 times to achieve float balance.
 
Back
Top Bottom