Homemade 9V Power Out for pedals on FM3

MrPond said:
I only have one additional pedal on my board - an additional power supply only for one single pedal is really annoying ...
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I get your situation . I only need to run a fuzz pedal. I'm going to insert in parallel a 9volt supply into the power cord near the fm3. Some soldering and box making (plastic) will be required . "One spots" are pretty small with the case removed . As alway's, if your not up to the task (dangers) of doing the job. Find some one you trust your life to, to do it for you, or just don't . But this route might be safer for the fm3 ,and possibly better filtering from a professional supply. The FM3 just cost too much for me to go fiddling with it. Good luck.
 
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jaza69 said:
I used a DC-DC 3-40V LM2596 Adjustable Step-Down Power Supply Module Voltage Regulator which I tapped into the FM3's 15V Power supply output wires, then adjusted the voltage to 9V. Installed the board on an existing brass standoff inside FM3 using isolated washer. and connected to a DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5X2.1mm - wired centre negative (accepts standard Boss pedal jack)

The FM3 Power Supply has enough overhead power to handle this. The FM3 Uses less than 15W, I think. The FM3 Power Supply is rated at 40W.

This DC-DC board can reliably handle up to 2A (it's rated at 3A max - not recommended!) My recommendation is 500mA @9V, It is "stealing" approximately 4.5W from FM3 which I think is a reasonable amount to keep the FM3 and the DC-DC board happy.

Here it is working:
Tuesday at 12:39 AM



View attachment 72158

View attachment 72159
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Here is another Homemade Mod I did to use FasLink 12V output on FM3 to supply 9v power to a couple of pedals:
It's built into an XLR plug:
This one does not require to open up FM3.

I used this mini DC-DC converter from Amazon.:
IMG_5316.JPG

Set it up for 9V
IMG_5315.jpg

And incorporate it into an older Neutrik XLR Male plug that I recycled:
IMG_5321.JPG
I had to modify (by snipping off) the white plastic strain relieves to accommodate the module:
IMG_5326.JPG
Next I connected the wires for input and output:
XLR male Plug: Pin 1 is negative (Ground) connects to the Module GND. - Black wire
Pin 2 is +12V connects to Module IN+ - Yellow wire

The VO+ is the output. it connect from the Module to the sleeve of DC output jack. - Red wire
The GND is the negative. it connect for the Module to the centre pin of the DC output jack. - Black wire
IMG_5330.JPG
Some isolation:IMG_5333.JPG

IMG_5335.JPGand it'd done!
IMG_5344.JPGIMG_5343.JPGIt works!
IMG_5353.JPG
 
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jaza69 said:
Here is another Homemade Mod I did to use FasLink 12V output on FM3 to supply 9v power to a couple of pedals:
This one does not require to open up FM3.

I used this mini DC-DC converter from Amazon.:
View attachment 77762

Set it up for 9V
View attachment 77763

And incorporate it into an older Neutrik XLR Male plug that I recycled:
View attachment 77764
I had to modify (by snipping off) the white plastic strain relieves to accommodate the module:
View attachment 77765
Next I connected the wires for input and output:
View attachment 77768
Some isolation:View attachment 77769

View attachment 77770and it'd done!
View attachment 77771View attachment 77773It works!
View attachment 77774

I would go this way from the beginning, but I didn't know that FasLink had 12V power available.
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Could you draw some schematic from this? It would be super helpful. I’m planning to make external psu also but little bit bigger lead with outboard DC-DC regulator.
 
Arto Kujala said:
Could you draw some schematic from this? It would be super helpful. I’m planning to make external psu also but little bit bigger lead with outboard DC-DC regulator.
Click to expand...
The FasLink has DC 12V output. Pin 1 is negative and Pin 2 is Positive.
if you have DC-DC Converter Module then:
XLR Pin 1 goes to IN- on he Module
XLR Pin 2 goes to IN+ on the Module

and from the Module
OUT- goes to centre of DC Jack
OUT+ goes to Sleeve of DC Jack

That's all. You'll need to adjust the output voltage to 9V on your Module, if you have adjustable one or you could source the one with already fixed 9V output.
There are dozens of the Modules available, Just google DC-DC step-down converter.

For example
DC Jack;
Gikfun DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5X2.1mm for Arduino (Pack of 10pcs) EK1796

DC-DC Module (I wouldn't go above 500mA) for external supply (this one is too big to be built into an XLR connector):
5PCS 3A DC-DC 3-40V LM2596S LM2596 Adjustable Step-Down Power Supply Module Voltage Regulator
 
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jaza69 said:
The FasLink has DC 12V output. Pin 1 is negative and Pin 2 is Positive.
if you have DC-DC Converter Module then:
XLR Pin 1 goes to IN- on he Module
XLR Pin 2 goes to IN+ on the Module

and from the Module
OUT- goes to centre of DC Jack
OUT+ goes to Sleeve of DC Jack

That's all. You'll need to adjust the output voltage to 9V on your Module, if you have adjustable one or you could source the one with already fixed 9V output.
There are dozens of the Modules available, Just google DC-DC step-down converter.

For example
DC Jack;
Gikfun DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5X2.1mm for Arduino (Pack of 10pcs) EK1796

DC-DC Module (I wouldn't go above 500mA):
5PCS 3A DC-DC 3-40V LM2596S LM2596 Adjustable Step-Down Power Supply Module Voltage Regulator
Click to expand...
IMG_5322.jpg
 
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This is very interesting. Big thank you OP for sharing all this.

I’m trying to draw power from the FC-6 Faslink using a different approach. I ordered a XLR to USB cable and try to power another device with USB. My device works with 6-12 V 250 mA. No actual connection needed for the device for power. I suppose the Faslink will output 12 V 500mA, so this could potentially work, right?

I can always use DC 6-12 V like in this thread if this doesn’t seem to work.

EDIT: just remembered I’m chaining from FM3 to FC-6, so I have to double check the Faslink output because of the daisy chain.

EDIT 2: this will not work, since Faslink thru does not output any current. At least according to the Wiki.
 
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I tried powering my Sennheiser wireless receiver (12v, 500ma) by splicing an XLR to a standard pedalboard cable with a barrel connector and I'm getting a lot of noise in the audio output...you guys aren't having noise issues?
 
Maybe a ground loop? The wireless receiver may be the only one not liking to be on "shared" power supply.
 
Any way to make the Usb slot for thumbdrives put out voltage? I found the Kemper has same purposed port but you can power your MC3-6-8 Midi controller , just like your amazing mod but no Colored nuts. I have tried but no juice comes out to power it. ?

anyone .???
 
Guitars&Videogames said:
Any way to make the Usb slot for thumbdrives put out voltage? I found the Kemper has same purposed port but you can power your MC3-6-8 Midi controller , just like your amazing mod but no Colored nuts. I have tried but no juice comes out to power it. ?

anyone .???
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I believe Cliff commented somewhere that it can but it isn't enabled currently... I think it can be enabled via a new Firmware.
 
Maybe lm317 module . Adjust the ln317 to lower power supply to 11.5 volts. Headphone's should still work fine. lm317 should still help filter noise in the supply actively . If ground loop then try a 1:1 iso transformer inline with audio. Both are items cheap, and on Amazon. These Idea's may not work ,but if done right should not harm.
 
To be clear, what is the FM3 FASLINK II's 12V current limit?

I'm hoping to power 520ma worth of other stuff at 12V via the FASLINK II connector with reasonable reserve etc, and the Wiki says the FC-12 uses around 1A, so I should be good to go, right?
 
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I make use of the ENGL Powertab Portable to convert the 12.09VDC (which I get from pin1 and 2 of the FASLINK port) down to 9VDC level.
From one port of the ENGL I power my MC8 and from the other a CBJ95.
The ENGL is also a good option to use an external power bank instead of the FASLINK port as it also converts up from 5VDC to 9VDC.
 
I use the "DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC-DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Regulator Transformer Voltage Step Down Power Supply Module", which works great for the 9V stuff on my FM3 pedalboard (I power both 12V and 9V pedals from the FASLINK port).
 
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DJD100 said:
I use the "DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC-DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Regulator Transformer Voltage Step Down Power Supply Module", which works great for the 9V stuff on my FM3 pedalboard (I power both 12V and 9V pedals from the FASLINK port).
Click to expand...
Are you also able to run 9V/2A out of the DROK from the 12V/1A from FASLINK? If so, this should be able to power the HX Stomp as well.
 
hepsen said:
Are you also able to run 9V/2A out of the DROK from the 12V/1A from FASLINK? If so, this should be able to power the HX Stomp as well.
Click to expand...
You're still are dealing with the 1A FASLINK current limit, and I keep my total current draw for everything (12V and 9V combined...), below that 1A limit.
 
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On a related note, does anyone know how much current the FC6 draws from FASLINK (ie. so I can determine how much of the 1000mA is available if already using it for an FC6)?

On another related note, has anyone figured out what voltage and current are available from the switch or XPDL jacks on the FM3 or FC6? I wouldn’t intend to power any audio circuits from it, but enough to power an LED for a connected switch while preserving the ability of the device to detect the switch status would be handy (I realize there are limitations given that the switch can’t tell the status of the FM3/FC6 logic to which that switch is assigned, but I have a few things I want to control with a latching switch and an indicator LED would be useful for them) …
 
Rumbletone said:
On a related note, does anyone know how much current the FC6 draws from FASLINK (ie. so I can determine how much of the 1000mA is available if already using it for an FC6)?

On another related note, has anyone figured out what voltage and current are available from the switch or XPDL jacks on the FM3 or FC6? I wouldn’t intend to power any audio circuits from it, but enough to power an LED for a connected switch while preserving the ability of the device to detect the switch status would be handy (I realize there are limitations given that the switch can’t tell the status of the FM3/FC6 logic to which that switch is assigned, but I have a few things I want to control with a latching switch and an indicator LED would be useful for them) …
Click to expand...
It is probable cheaper, and safer, to buy a complete solution like Voes MX5, or a Morningstar MC6. I'd prefer the Voes as I have big feet and hate to hit other buttons at the same time, it's more spacious.
 
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