Axe-Fx III Firmware Version 4.00 Beta

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FractalAudio said:
On the real amp you'd have to open it up and unsolder the capacitor. Navigating over a few pages seems minor in comparison.
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Anything done in the Axe modding amp settings is obviously much easier to do than on a real amp. That's one of the many reasons I've bought 4 Axes so far. Navigating 1 page would be even less of an issue, more ergonomic, & more logical IMHO.
 
JoKeR III said:
Even after adjusting the Bright Cap value?
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Just a different kind of thin, shrill, ice pick through the ear drum. It's easier to just turn it off & get the high end I want with the treble & presence controls. Adjusting the frequency doesn't change the level of high end.
 
Inserting an ideal tone after the authentic one, means that other pages will be moved further away. Something has to go. Comes down to personal preference, I guess.
 
JoKeR III said:
Interesting, you must have sensitive ears. Hasn't been my experience, I usually set the Bright Cap @ 150-250pF on "dark" amps and it works brilliantly.
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On a dark amp, like the Plexi normal, it can help. Or I just find an amp this is not so dark. Also IR choice can make a big difference. I do have sensitivity to high end but I do not have dark presets, at least they don't sound dark to me. Many of the presets I have tried from other forum members usually sound way too bright & often too boomy at the same time. I can only go by what I hear & my band mates love the way my rig sounds so that's what I need to stick with.
 
yek said:
Inserting an ideal tone after the authentic one, means that other pages will be moved further away. Something has to go. Comes down to personal preference, I guess.
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It's moving more advanced parameters 1 page back rather than ideal tone controls several pages back. There is always a trade off somewhere. For me, it's just making parameters I am most likely to adjust closer to each other rather than as far away form each other as possible.
 
notalemming said:
It's moving more advanced parameters 1 page back rather than ideal tone controls several pages back. There is always a trade off somewhere. For me, it's just making parameters I am most likely to adjust closer to each other rather than as far away form each other as possible.
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imagine the amount of work for the benefit might not line up; definitely a first world problem, but I'm sure it's been taken into consideration
 
effulgent said:
imagine the amount of work for the benefit might not line up; definitely a first world problem, but I'm sure it's been taken into consideration
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I don't know how much work it would be but as a guess, since the ideal controls were moved to the advanced page already, it would not be too much work to move them to a new page. Not the end of the world if it doesn't happen but it would be a more ergonomic, less cumbersome solution IMHO. As always, it's up to Cliff if he sees fit to do this. I love the fact that he does listen to users & does implement things that have been suggested or asked for.
 
notalemming said:
OK, makes sense. It is just the way authentic is implemented, it's a lot of scrolling to just turn the bright switch off. Could it be possible to have an ideal tone page right after the authentic tone page rather than a global authentic/ideal option with the ideal tone settings all the way back in the advanced page? Please?
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I set my Axe to authentic to make it easier for me for live use. But if you use Axe Edit, you wi;;\\ll have the best of both worlds. Edit has an Authentic tab and an ideal tab right under it.
 
FractalAudio said:
Yeah, this is my favorite firmware of all time. I was going to work on porting it to the Axe-Fx II but ended up just playing most of the day. So happy with it that I bought a new guitar. I've always wanted an Anderson so I bought this:

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you deserve it sir! This 4.00 beta is b l o w i n my m i n d ! ! !
 
FractalAudio said:
OP Amp is the correct type.
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Thanks, didn’t realize it would reset to default/correct type.

Does HV Tube stand for high voltage tube?

And compared to Op Amp, would the HV Tube have the same headroom, but with tube like harmonic distortion when clipping? Or would HV Tube have more distortion than an Op Amp?
 
I don't really hear much of a difference to be honest with you. I do have a request however. If you are trying to make the amp modeling more authentic could you replicate the pot push pull functions on the Mesa mark series amps perhaps?
 
Tommy Tempest said:
I set my Axe to authentic to make it easier for me for live use. But if you use Axe Edit, you wi;;\\ll have the best of both worlds. Edit has an Authentic tab and an ideal tab right under it.
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I would love to see the hardware setup like this. No need for the 'Authentic' switch?
 
Question: Why are such models, like "USA Lead" and "USA Lead Brt" separated?
Why doesn't the Bright switch on the amp block work in this case, that it needs a whole new Amp model?

Anyway, Ideally, as much as having 260+ amp models is a selling point, a smaller list would be easier to navigate and understand, i believe. Most of items in the list are slight variations , or different channels of an amp. The list would shorten a lot if all these original switches were placed in the models themselves, and the channels and variations would be a submenu.
 
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