what are some of your technics on getting your presets back to the way they were sounding after you reselect the amp model. do you just take notes and readjust with the FW15 updated model? i'm taking screenshots of the amp block then reselecting the amp and going back to my pics to put them back to the values i had. is there an easier way? can you reselect the amp, then import your saved preset and the amp will be up to date with the "15" version? be gentle, i'm always afraid that the question in my head doesn't translate well to paper(screen)
I like the RED more now than on 14, before it was maybe too much comp i'd say, only wonder about if its default at 0 but instead Sag is on 4, and i have to add slight more drive now, yea rocks at any event!!
I hear yah but there really is no other way to have progress. Unless you'd rather go with no updates and Cliff can go into a cave for a year and come out with the AXE FX 3 and then you are totally screwed. I struggle with this myself but upon further contemplation I think this is a really unique situation where all the user base is able to be a part of this process. You can always just stay with your current firmware.I love updates myself.... and I get that things improve and are reworked, but having to reset and re-do amps again? arrrggg!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Some usage tips:
1. The amps are scary accurate now. I haven't gone through my whole stash but I've gone through quite a few and it's almost creepy how accurate the modeling is. So if you don't like the sound of a model you wouldn't like the real amp either.
2. All the controls operate like the real amps with the exception of the taper on the Presence and Master Volume. These controls always have the same tapers regardless of the model. This was done with the Presence control because on many amps the control doesn't do anything for 80-90% of the range which just seems stupid. This was done with the Master Volume as otherwise the volumes would be all over the place so a unified taper was employed. Otherwise the controls operate like the real amp but you may need to put them in a different position than the real amp, i.e. Presence on 8 on the real amp might be equal to 5 on the Axe-Fx. Use your ears.
3. Preamp/power-amp interaction is much greater now. As with real amps use the Master Volume to get to the sweet spot. I was comparing the Dirty Shirley to the model and the model seemed to have a lot more bass and less midrange. Just didn't sound the same. So I did some sweeps and the model showed more bass and less midrange. After some probing I realized the taper on the amp was linear so, even though it's Master Volume was on 3 or thereabouts, it was really driving the power amp hard. I turned the Master Volume on the Axe-Fx up to around 6-7 and the model then sounded exactly like the amp.
4. There are 185 amp models now. If you can't find your sound with one of these you have other issues.
DAM IT!!!
I just lend Axe FX to a friend!!!!:miserable:
Going to get a hammer and smash one of my balls....
Bye.
When we re-select our amps in the preset, do we have to EQ them all over again?
I updated, then after reading the notes, I immediately went to the Dr. Z 38. Per the instructions, I was resetting the amp. I flipped over to the Dr Z - 8 so that I could flip back to the 38, and had already set the cab IR to the UR Amp Factory AC Rox Mix. (kind of a random selection to try out - no reason) What I heard was heaven. I never did flip back to the 38, nor have I tried another amp since. My god what a nice tone. Open chords left open to decay are deeply layered with harmonic content. I can't describe it and frankly have not felt a full amp like relation with the Axe-FX II as organic and harmonically rich as the tone that I stumbled upon by accident here. Volume control and overall dynamic response is amazing. I don't have any idea what this epiphany of Cliff was with V15.xx, but it is real. I can feel it, not only hear it.
I like this - a lot.
Thank you Cliff!Every body !! At the same Time.. say Thanks... To Cliff !