Talk me out of (or into) buying a Strandberg Guitar

Chromatizm said:
I'm not following, sorry. I'm doing the restring exactly as shown by Ola at and exactly https://strandbergguitars.com/how-to-re-string-your-strandberg-guitar/ describes (oh, sorry, not exactly - they didn't even mention in 6.1 that you have to bend the end of the string a little so it doesn't stuck inside the lock!). If any of these instructions are not precise, please remind me, how exactly that would be my error?

So I before you answer, I will show you something I've described earlier. Two photos to display the "precision engineering" in installing the bridge tuners, and another photo to show how smart the bridge construction is.

https://strandbergguitars.com/eu/product/boden-metal-nx-6-black-granite/ says:
  1. String spacing at bridge: 10.5 mm/.41″
Let's check that, shall we?
Image 1: the ruler is aligned against the 1st string. Do the math yourself if you'd like to check if we have 10.5 mm between each string. Spoiler alert: we don't.
Oh, and pay attention to the gaps between the bodies of the tunes - there is no optical distortion, you can see the difference with plain eyes.
View attachment 128782

Image 2 to verify the same, but aligned against 6 string saddle.
View attachment 128784

And now to one of my favorite part in Strandberg's bridges, the screws which can screw with your hand. I've had at least three incidents with this particular screw tearing the skin on my little finger till it bleeds.
And no, I cannot "push" it any further inside the tuner. And please don't give me your opinion that "I should use another playing technique". To play funk riffs Wong-style on this guitar I've had to remove the tone pot completely and put the volume pot in its place. This is how much thought the builder put in these guitars. Brilliant work.

View attachment 128785
The screws are the worst solution ever, and when paired with the saddle, feel terrible when do palm muting. Worst I've ever experienced.

And the number of incidents I've had when the first string jumps out of the saddle when you do the bending is simply ridiculous. Someone has no idea how to do proper engineering.

So please, stop telling me about incredible Strandberg quality. I can live if we agree to disagree. Can you?
It is your opinion at best. I'm happy for those who had great copies, really, or simply enjoy these guitars for what they are.
It still doesn't make these guitars "incredible value" with the "precision engineering" and near-perfect "build quality".
Click to expand...


Sounds like you got a rough one. I personally wouldn't keep a guitar that I had the problems you claim to have with yours. Far too expensive to settle IMHO. Not sure what I'm looking at one the bridge as the NX line did away with the set screw, this an older model? Also unsure what you are saying about the tone pot.
 
Will Chen said:
Far too expensive to settle IMHO.
Click to expand...
I waited for it for 6 months, and due to the issues with the back similar to what Tim had recently
I had to keep it, because there was no replacement available, and I'd had to wait another very long period for a new set.
I've made a mistake of buying a bolt-on neck version - never again - but in the end, keeping the guitar was a good solution for my health, so until I change my mind on having something custom built for me, this will do.
Aristides are noticeably heavier as I recently learned :/

Will Chen said:
Also unsure what you are saying about the tone pot.
Click to expand...
The volume pot is very high. If you start playing some aggressive funk riffs, if wouldn't be long until you just hit it with your hand. It hurts! So I had to move the volume pot into the "tone" place, and keep the original "volume" hole empty. This way I can play as heavy or aggressive as I want, be it Zeppelin/AC-DC or funk, and don't be afraid of hurting my hand.
Oh, except for that screw in the first bridge tuner!

Ah, and a pickup selector! I had to reverse it, because I mostly use the neck position, and when playing funk, you keep switching it to bridge all the time. I've seen Cory solving it with some tape around the switch sometimes (there is nothing you can't fix with the tape, right?) :) But I need it available.

Will Chen said:
Not sure what I'm looking at one the bridge as the NX line did away with the set screw, this an older model?
Click to expand...
Looks like I've selected the wrong model... Apologies! This one is what I have: https://strandbergguitars.com/row/product/boden-metal-6-black-pearl/
 
Rosh, there are some definite positives and some definite negatives. Purchasing a Boden Fusion 6 led to buying a Boden Standard 6, and then a Boden NX8. On balance, pretty happy with them.
 
Chromatizm said:
I waited for it for 6 months, and due to the issues with the back similar to what Tim had recently
I had to keep it, because there was no replacement available, and I'd had to wait another very long period for a new set.
I've made a mistake of buying a bolt-on neck version - never again - but in the end, keeping the guitar was a good solution for my health, so until I change my mind on having something custom built for me, this will do.
Aristides are noticeably heavier as I recently learned :/


The volume pot is very high. If you start playing some aggressive funk riffs, if wouldn't be long until you just hit it with your hand. It hurts! So I had to move the volume pot into the "tone" place, and keep the original "volume" hole empty. This way I can play as heavy or aggressive as I want, be it Zeppelin/AC-DC or funk, and don't be afraid of hurting my hand.
Oh, except for that screw in the first bridge tuner!

Ah, and a pickup selector! I had to reverse it, because I mostly use the neck position, and when playing funk, you keep switching it to bridge all the time. I've seen Cory solving it with some tape around the switch sometimes (there is nothing you can't fix with the tape, right?) :) But I need it available.


Looks like I've selected the wrong model... Apologies! This one is what I have: https://strandbergguitars.com/row/product/boden-metal-6-black-pearl/
Click to expand...


Bummer...again, at these prices there's no way I'm settling for a guitar that won't work for me 100%.

Best I can tell when they launched the NX the set screw was removed from all production models. Regarding volume knob location...the technique I use (and Wong, and really most guitarists I've observed) is if I'm strumming more aggressively I move toward the neck to avoid hitting controls (and despite my more hard rock/metal/prog leanings I actually played a ton of funk over the years). I actually very much prefer the volume knob where it is vs positioned more like a Strat or PRS where they get in my way, but to each their own. There's a reason there's a ton of designs out there, not everything is going to work for everyone.
 
Chromatizm said:
I'm not following, sorry. I'm doing the restring exactly as shown by Ola at and exactly https://strandbergguitars.com/how-to-re-string-your-strandberg-guitar/ describes (oh, sorry, not exactly - they didn't even mention in 6.1 that you have to bend the end of the string a little so it doesn't stuck inside the lock!). If any of these instructions are not precise, please remind me, how exactly that would be my error?

So I before you answer, I will show you something I've described earlier. Two photos to display the "precision engineering" in installing the bridge tuners, and another photo to show how smart the bridge construction is.

https://strandbergguitars.com/eu/product/boden-metal-nx-6-black-granite/ says:
  1. String spacing at bridge: 10.5 mm/.41″
Let's check that, shall we?
Image 1: the ruler is aligned against the 1st string. Do the math yourself if you'd like to check if we have 10.5 mm between each string. Spoiler alert: we don't.
Oh, and pay attention to the gaps between the bodies of the tunes - there is no optical distortion, you can see the difference with plain eyes.
View attachment 128782

Image 2 to verify the same, but aligned against 6 string saddle.
View attachment 128784

And now to one of my favorite part in Strandberg's bridges, the screws which can screw with your hand. I've had at least three incidents with this particular screw tearing the skin on my little finger till it bleeds.
And no, I cannot "push" it any further inside the tuner. And please don't give me your opinion that "I should use another playing technique". To play funk riffs Wong-style on this guitar I've had to remove the tone pot completely and put the volume pot in its place. This is how much thought the builder put in these guitars. Brilliant work.

View attachment 128785
The screws are the worst solution ever, and when paired with the saddle, feel terrible when do palm muting. Worst I've ever experienced.

And the number of incidents I've had when the first string jumps out of the saddle when you do the bending is simply ridiculous. Someone has no idea how to do proper engineering.

So please, stop telling me about incredible Strandberg quality. I can live if we agree to disagree. Can you?
It is your opinion at best. I'm happy for those who had great copies, really, or simply enjoy these guitars for what they are.
It still doesn't make these guitars "incredible value" with the "precision engineering" and near-perfect "build quality".
Click to expand...

If you look back at my posts I did quite a critical review of my Strandberg a while back mentioning QC issues with the company. I have never said "incredible value" mine is pretty good on the detail and as I said no better or worse than similar priced guitars . I was very critical of the hardware in my review particularly the grub screw you have issues with . As for the tuner spacing I would suggest that it will be possible to correct with just the play in the intonation as the CNC tracks could not be cut out of place .When you next change strings you could (with the strings off) loosen the intonation bolt a gently ease the tuners in the the correct spacing. this is not uncommon with many bridge designs and is not really a defect .CNC just doesn't allow this sort of error , when it goes wrong it really goes wrong and the body would be ruined. Pleas try what I suggest because it will work .The video is not particularly good at explaining the issues with the clamps because this would highlight the shortcomings of the design (now changed completely ) .You absolutely need to make sure that the clamping pieces are firmly screwed to the neck and the metal spacer is between the wood and the clamping sections . If you don't have the spacer get in touch with Strandberg and get them to send you one. Then put in the tiny discs (terrible design ) and thread through the string. Then you must hold it carefully in the centre of the hole while you put in the clamping grub screw (terrible design again because you need to take it out completely to ensure the string is over the disc and in the centre. Then you can tighten the clamp. The instructions say you don't need it to be tight but you absolutely do . The only reason they changed the design to a one piece body was to allow you to tighten the clamp enough without the risk of stripping the screw holding it to the neck. The simple truth is they should be sending the Rev 7 clamp out to all past owners FOC. I get why you are frustrated with it and don't see value but your problems can be easily addressed . The grub screw in the high E saddle can actually just be removed and shortened or even left out. The new design doesn't have them and has not replaced there function , It is actually not needed I hope this helps and gets rid or your problems .
 
Chromatizm said:
And now to one of my favorite part in Strandberg's bridges, the screws which can screw with your hand. I've had at least three incidents with this particular screw tearing the skin on my little finger till it bleeds.
And no, I cannot "push" it any further inside the tuner. And please don't give me your opinion that "I should use another playing technique". To play funk riffs Wong-style on this guitar I've had to remove the tone pot completely and put the volume pot in its place. This is how much thought the builder put in these guitars. Brilliant work.

View attachment 128785
The screws are the worst solution ever, and when paired with the saddle, feel terrible when do palm muting. Worst I've ever experienced.

And the number of incidents I've had when the first string jumps out of the saddle when you do the bending is simply ridiculous. Someone has no idea how to do proper engineering.
Click to expand...

I've also had this experience with the bridge. While I think the rest of the guitar (Boden Standard NX) is pretty nice for the price I paid, the bridge is just a hassle. There's a loss of range in the action adjustment due to how the saddle is adjusted with the hex screw, and having to take the string off to adjust intonation is just icing on that.

My headless Kiesel Osiris has a slightly bulkier bridge but the saddles and intonation adjustment are basically like a hipshot and just a lot easier to manage.
 
I hope all of this is now resolved, but what the heck, I might as well wade in with my two bob's worth. I have three Strandbergs - two Boden Original OS7s - Korean made in 2016, and a Prog Neck Through from Indonesia. The two Korean guitars are basically flawless in terms of build and finish, however both had to have the zero fret lowered quite a bit to achieve the action I was looking for. The Prog NT is effectively flawless in every way. Other than those for comparison my main guitars tend to be a PRS Core DGT and an Ibanez Premium AZ242 (I think). The PRS is, like all USA PRS guitars, effectively perfect and the Ibanez is good - not PRS good, not quite Strandberg good, but for considerably less money, very good. I have heard all sorts of QC issues regarding Strandberg, but never seen any evidence in person on any Strandberg I have played. Whether you like PRS or not, I think its safe to say they absolutely set the bar for factory QC, and I'd say the Prog NT is very close to that - far, far closer than any Gibson or Fender guitar I have owned that dated from any time past, oh I dunno, 1966 (and sadly that is quite a lot of guitars). I suspect the hardware on Strandbergs has to be treated with care and some respect, it's not flimsy, but it's not exactly a Three saddle Tele bridge, and, yes, you can break things..... but then again I snapped an Ibanez Edge trem arm off inside the block, so if you try hard enough you can break just about anything.
 
Andy Eagle said:
Let us know how it goes please.
Click to expand...
I've replaced the strings with Mighty Slinky's 3228 8.5-40 cause I didn't find a way to stop 8th unwind. Soldering is a joke, no way I'm doing it.
I checked again all the instructions, videos, your comments; verified the disks are place, tightened all the screws on the guitar both neck and bridge, just in case; made sure the strings are perfectly straight and tightened, etc., and sad to report the tuning stability is still not perfect.
It will probably be acceptable for another week while strings are new, but then "it" will begin again.

The worst thing happened after the change is that intonation issues started. The 5th string on 12th fret got almost half way to Ab flat as compared against the harmonic or open string, and no matter what I tried (and I've moved the bridge as close to pickups as possible, and used the "raise the saddle" trick too), it is still very bad. I don't understand how it could possibly happen, so if you have any idea what to check, I'd appreciate that.

So I went to "alternate" intonation tuning using 5th fret as a reference and 17th as control point, and it got much better for the range I'm typically using, but open chords are totally broken now. Don't even think of playing anything with an open A or even C chord in open position - impossible. Here goes my dream of being in AC/DC tribute band!
So I spent some time adjusting the intonation on all other strings using the "5th fret reference", and the guitar if playable for most of its range above 5th fret. I'd even say the intonation in the 12th fret region improved a bit :tearsofjoy:
Still not perfect, cause it is painfully hard to adjust bridge tuners in very gentle way by very small adjustments - the moment you unscrew the screw, you are screwed.

BTW, the dents on my zero frets started showing after a third string change or so, a couple or a few month after I've bought it. I was quite shocked by this - support explained to me that this is expected when you change 10th to something lighter. Apparently, the metal used for zero fret is not metal enough on the Metal model!
I've had the nut replaced to support the lighter strings to help with this a bit, actually.

I'm giving up on this guitar, I don't want to fight it any more. I'll just play it till I find something else light and comfortable.
Maybe I should think of switching to Larada, even if it is not headless and light. I've had enough.
 
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Chromatizm said:
I've replaced the strings with Mighty Slinky's 3228 8.5-40 cause I didn't find a way to stop 8th unwind. Soldering is a joke, no way I'm doing it.
I checked again all the instructions, videos, your comments; verified the disks are place, tightened all the screws on the guitar both neck and bridge, just in case; made sure the strings are perfectly straight and tightened, etc., and sad to report the tuning stability is still not perfect.
It will probably be acceptable for another week while strings are new, but then "it" will begin again.

The worst thing happened after the change is that intonation issues started. The 5th string on 12th fret got almost half way to Ab flat as compared against the harmonic or open string, and no matter what I tried (and I've moved the bridge as close to pickups as possible, and used the "raise the saddle" trick too), it is still very bad. I don't understand how it could possibly happen, so if you have any idea what to check, I'd appreciate that.

So I went to "alternate" intonation tuning using 5th fret as a reference and 17th as control point, and it got much better for the range I'm typically using, but open chords are totally broken now. Don't even think of playing anything with an open A or even C chord in open position - impossible. Here goes my dream of being in AC/DC tribute band!
So I spent some time adjusting the intonation on all other strings using the "5th fret reference", and the guitar if playable for most of its range above 5th fret. I'd even say the intonation in the 12th fret region improved a bit :tearsofjoy:
Still not perfect, cause it is painfully hard to adjust bridge tuners in very gentle way by very small adjustments - the moment you unscrew the screw, you are screwed.

BTW, the dents on my zero frets started showing after a third string change or so, a couple or a few month after I've bought it. I was quite shocked by this - support explained to me that this is expected when you change 10th to something lighter. Apparently, the metal used for zero fret is not metal enough on the Metal model!
I've had the nut replaced to support the lighter strings to help with this a bit, actually.

I'm giving up on this guitar, I don't want to fight it any more. I'll just play it till I find something else light and comfortable.
Maybe I should think of switching to Larada, even if it is not headless and light. I've had enough.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear it, best to move on.

Though FWIW...something is off with the way you are setting/testing intonation. It would seem impossible for only the 5th string at 12 fret to be so out of tune. An incorrectly seated fret would impact all strings and moving the bridge should impact pitch at many frets, not just the 12th.

EDIT: If lightweight is your goal, check out an older Parker Fly.
 
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Chromatizm said:
I've replaced the strings with Mighty Slinky's 3228 8.5-40 cause I didn't find a way to stop 8th unwind. Soldering is a joke, no way I'm doing it.
I checked again all the instructions, videos, your comments; verified the disks are place, tightened all the screws on the guitar both neck and bridge, just in case; made sure the strings are perfectly straight and tightened, etc., and sad to report the tuning stability is still not perfect.
It will probably be acceptable for another week while strings are new, but then "it" will begin again.

The worst thing happened after the change is that intonation issues started. The 5th string on 12th fret got almost half way to Ab flat as compared against the harmonic or open string, and no matter what I tried (and I've moved the bridge as close to pickups as possible, and used the "raise the saddle" trick too), it is still very bad. I don't understand how it could possibly happen, so if you have any idea what to check, I'd appreciate that.

So I went to "alternate" intonation tuning using 5th fret as a reference and 17th as control point, and it got much better for the range I'm typically using, but open chords are totally broken now. Don't even think of playing anything with an open A or even C chord in open position - impossible. Here goes my dream of being in AC/DC tribute band!
So I spent some time adjusting the intonation on all other strings using the "5th fret reference", and the guitar if playable for most of its range above 5th fret. I'd even say the intonation in the 12th fret region improved a bit :tearsofjoy:
Still not perfect, cause it is painfully hard to adjust bridge tuners in very gentle way by very small adjustments - the moment you unscrew the screw, you are screwed.

BTW, the dents on my zero frets started showing after a third string change or so, a couple or a few month after I've bought it. I was quite shocked by this - support explained to me that this is expected when you change 10th to something lighter. Apparently, the metal used for zero fret is not metal enough on the Metal model!
I've had the nut replaced to support the lighter strings to help with this a bit, actually.

I'm giving up on this guitar, I don't want to fight it any more. I'll just play it till I find something else light and comfortable.
Maybe I should think of switching to Larada, even if it is not headless and light. I've had enough.
Click to expand...
Explore the Kiesel Zeus. I have 2. They are well made (USA); headless; light weight; comfortable; balanced; no problems with the bridge, tuning, etc. If you don't go crazy with options (and you don't need to) then they are less expensive than the Strandbergs.
 
I just recently started playing them again and I'm in love all over again. The Endurneck is a Godsend for an old man like me who's been dealing with wrist pain the last couple of years, and the playability rivals any other high end guitar I've ever owned. It does sometimes feel more like a precision machine than an instrument, but it's such a joy to play. I'd recommend them to anyone. Plus it stays in tune really well in these crazy Arizona fall nights when it's 85 degrees when your set starts and 65 when the night ends :)
 
vika12 said:
Explore the Kiesel Zeus.
Click to expand...
Back when I was playing computer games I used "Osiris" as a nickname :) Soooo :)
27e68807d0744b799f5dbef8cd459034.jpg
 
Chromatizm said:
I've replaced the strings with Mighty Slinky's 3228 8.5-40 cause I didn't find a way to stop 8th unwind. Soldering is a joke, no way I'm doing it.
I checked again all the instructions, videos, your comments; verified the disks are place, tightened all the screws on the guitar both neck and bridge, just in case; made sure the strings are perfectly straight and tightened, etc., and sad to report the tuning stability is still not perfect.
It will probably be acceptable for another week while strings are new, but then "it" will begin again.

The worst thing happened after the change is that intonation issues started. The 5th string on 12th fret got almost half way to Ab flat as compared against the harmonic or open string, and no matter what I tried (and I've moved the bridge as close to pickups as possible, and used the "raise the saddle" trick too), it is still very bad. I don't understand how it could possibly happen, so if you have any idea what to check, I'd appreciate that.

So I went to "alternate" intonation tuning using 5th fret as a reference and 17th as control point, and it got much better for the range I'm typically using, but open chords are totally broken now. Don't even think of playing anything with an open A or even C chord in open position - impossible. Here goes my dream of being in AC/DC tribute band!
So I spent some time adjusting the intonation on all other strings using the "5th fret reference", and the guitar if playable for most of its range above 5th fret. I'd even say the intonation in the 12th fret region improved a bit :tearsofjoy:
Still not perfect, cause it is painfully hard to adjust bridge tuners in very gentle way by very small adjustments - the moment you unscrew the screw, you are screwed.

BTW, the dents on my zero frets started showing after a third string change or so, a couple or a few month after I've bought it. I was quite shocked by this - support explained to me that this is expected when you change 10th to something lighter. Apparently, the metal used for zero fret is not metal enough on the Metal model!
I've had the nut replaced to support the lighter strings to help with this a bit, actually.

I'm giving up on this guitar, I don't want to fight it any more. I'll just play it till I find something else light and comfortable.
Maybe I should think of switching to Larada, even if it is not headless and light. I've had enough.
Click to expand...
I wish I could get my hands on this because I am sure I could intonate it and make it stay in tune.
The thing to remember is with a headless straight pull tuning system that has a lock nut and a threaded barrel tuning mech is it is almost impossible for it not to be stable. Now add a carbon reinforced neck (also quite thick ) so it is not going to be that . Something is moving that shouldn't. That only leaves the nut housing ,string clamp, tuner assembly intonation bolt and the plate is is bolted too.. The string also my not be clamped properly (wear on the surfaces causing slip). For each string make sure the housing is solid, the surface of the disc and clamp bolt are smooth enough to grab and hold the string. Then make sure the intonation bolt is tight enough to hold the tuner solid without any chance of slip. assuming your strings have no issues this is ALL there is on this guitar. As for your intonation : I think you should measure the exact scale length of the two E strings and set the saddles in a line between these two points as a reset start . I guarantee the intonation point will be near this . The lighter you'r strings the nearer the actual scale measurement will be correct, just allowing for the vibration of the thicker strings to be slightly choked by the witness point. Intonate open to fretted 12th and then G to G. I can get these two at the same time on any Strandberg I have ever set up. Try a different tuner as a reference and make sure your pickups are on the low side because with such light strings the magnets can pull you out of tune.
Good luck and I am CERTAIN this can be 100% fixed.

On the soldering point I think you should try it once so you can rule out the strings . Also your problems can be accounted for by counterfeit strings bought on line . This is getting to be a problem because they look almost exactly right but sound bad and don't stay in tune.
 
On the subject of Fake strings, look at these:
IMG_3041.jpeg
I couldn't tell from the packaging. Only when they sounded off and wouldn't stay in tune did I start looking closely. These literally look real, the only difference visually was the size of the serration between packs is bigger than a real pack. even the ball end wind looks right. They are totally unstable and won't intonate.
 
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