Switching between guitars w/ different output - How do you do it??

aleclee said:
If you're trying to get a Strat to sound more like a LP, why? I might be talking crazy but how about using the guitar that best delivers the timbre you want? Dial in the preset for the "right" guitar for a given song and call it a day.
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I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear (english is not my first language), but I definatly am not trying to get my strat to sound like an LP, which would also be an impossible mission ;) I just want to be able to change guitars without going from high gain to mid/low gain due to the output difference between the guitars. The reason for the small EQ work i did along with is simply to try to level out the feed to the gain so it reach somewhat similar, and to avoid using different amps for the two guitars. Although I do have a world of oppotunities with my axe, I try to keep it as simple as possible. Also I like my strat to have a little more body, why it's boosted a bit in the lower mids, but the bump at 55hz actually does the trick for me, for some reason.

I am very intrigued about the input trim thingy, and will try it our over the weekend, but if anyone does things different and have some ideas, keep 'em coming :)
 
I use an EQ block as the first block and switch it for different guitar (you could use scenes for that, although I do it a bit differently). The idea is to get a similar tone balance and level. And of course it doesn't make guitars sound the same, it's just to get similar overdrive characteristics and levels.
 
Paulinfl said:
Here's what I do. First set the master instrument input trim in I/O as other mentioned above (to hottest guitar). Then use an expression knob on your board. Bind it to Input Trim on all your amp blocks., set MIN at 0.5(or whatever), and MAX at whatever you want. Use it on the fly to adjust how hot you want whichever guitar you are using at the time.
Also, makes a nice way to 'heat up' any lead scene for a little more push. Just another tool in the box!



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Love this!!!

I'm thinking to add a DIY 4 AUX switches to my new MFC-101 floorboard... and THIS KNOB could be a good add!
Any tips about the potentiometer used (tipe and ohms) and the electrical schematic?
 
A knob is not essential. You can use an onboard switch or an external switch too, if you only need two settings to switch between, just like the Low and High inputs on an amp.
 
From the wiki:

You may want to adjust level or gain when changing guitars. Here are methods to deal with this (besides using dedicated presets).
  1. IN/GTE > LEVEL
    • This parameter controls the loudness of the signal entering the grid. It was specifically introduced for this purpose: compensating output level differences between guitars. It works per preset only, so it needs adjustment per preset, unless the setting is stored as part of a global block. No possibility to attach a modifier.
  2. AMP X/Y
    • Use different Input Trim settings in X and Y.
  3. Two AMP blocks (not on AX8)
  4. SCENES and SCENE CONTROLLERS:
    • Attach Input Trim in the Amp block to a Scene Controller. In the Controllers menu set the controller to the desired value for each scene. Switch scenes when switching between guitars.
  5. Global AMP GAIN
    • This is a parameter in the Global menu. My preferred method. But yuo can only adjust this manually (no modifier possible) and it responds slow because of processor activity.
  6. Global block:
    • Add a low-CPU block to every preset such as FILTER or VOL or PEQ.
    • Put it at the start of the grid to let it affect the amount of gain in the Amp block.
    • Keep the block settings neutral and set its Level at i.e. -6 .
    • Make it a global block, so you can easily change a setting and have it applied across all presets immediately.
    • Attach its Bypass parameter to an external controller. Engage this block by going into I/O > MIDI and toggling EXT CTRL xx INIT VAL between 0% and 100%. Or assign a general function footswitch to the external controller’s CC and use that for toggling instead (set the switch to Global:Yes in the MFC). It works across all presets.
 
I build presets for specific guitars.. I find the Axe FX to be a little more sensitive in this regard (probably because I'm using it into an FRFR speaker vs. traditional guitar cabs). Some will work between different guitars though- say my Nocaster and my main Strat..
 
Hotplate said:
I build presets for specific guitars.. I find the Axe FX to be a little more sensitive in this regard (probably because I'm using it into an FRFR speaker vs. traditional guitar cabs). Some will work between different guitars though- say my Nocaster and my main Strat..
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This is my experience too. The Fractal seems to magnify, in a good way, the natural characteristics of the guitar and pickups.

I notice this even with the same guitar and same preset changing from bridge to neck pickups makes more of a difference than in does with my real amp rigs. I really have grown to love this.
 
Using the AFX, I'd be inclined to keep all the adjustments "in the box" rather than using an external device. It'd be pretty simple to program a footswitchable EQ or trim change.

For my non-AFX rig, I've used a couple of different approaches.

If I want to be able to stomp to change guitars, I use an A/B switch that has a volume control on one of the inputs. Radial makes a nifty little passive switch with a "dim" control to dial down the louder of the two inputs. There are also active switches that have onboard gain to be used to bring up the level of the weaker input.

When I don't need the switch, I just put a clean boost at the head of the chain and switch it on when I plug in the guitar having the weaker signal.

But, like I said... With the AFX I'd skip the external hardware and just program an IA button to do what I need.
 
Just set the IP trim as suggested, for the hottest guitar, then use each when a song suits. They SHOULD sound different. If you plugged the two into a real amp - they would sound different with less gain and body from the strat. Use the guitars as part of the pallet of tones.

Ultimately if your adjusting patches to make the strat closer to the LP, you wasting the strat. If the strats natural sound doesnt suit the band - dont use a strat.
 
barhrecords said:
This is my experience too. The Fractal seems to magnify, in a good way, the natural characteristics of the guitar and pickups.

I notice this even with the same guitar and same preset changing from bridge to neck pickups makes more of a difference than in does with my real amp rigs. I really have grown to love this.
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Agreed- it can be a benefit or a little of a pain depending on my situation.. I've spent a little more time adjusting pickup height since I got the Axe, for instance.
 
Hotplate said:
Agreed- it can be a benefit or a little of a pain depending on my situation.. I've spent a little more time adjusting pickup height since I got the Axe, for instance.
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Agreed. I have had most of my instruments intonation and setup tweaked because of it. Can really hear when my tuning in out... ouch :)
 
This place is too funny- its clear why many stay away. Enjoy OP. You have many suggestions now. Nothing is essential. Apparently two inputs on a real amp isn't needed and was a waste by amp designers (ie trim), judging by some of the responses (Yek gets it though). Knob is not required, yes you can do it with onboard switch. Expression Knob just provides a sweep of breakup sweetspot vs guitar volume knob position relative adjustment. No timbre changes (lol). It does not make a strat sound like a les paul (how that came about is strange) or vice versa.. Relative breakup adjustment, nothing more or less. Which addresses the ops problem..
 
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GuttaLaser said:
Love this!!!

I'm thinking to add a DIY 4 AUX switches to my new MFC-101 floorboard... and THIS KNOB could be a good add!
Any tips about the potentiometer used (tipe and ohms) and the electrical schematic?
Click to expand...

I love it. YMMV. No tips here. I bought mine from Mission. Not sure if they still offer them. I think I bought it 2 years ago. This one I have, has a switch on it that seems to change the curve (like the modifier curve inside the Axe), which isn't needed because of the Axe's settings. I set the switch to linear and adjust the Axes curve if needed. Beauty is the expression knob is great for other stuff too. Could be reverb mix (for the room your in), delay, etc... It's really easy to adjust with foot too(has a rubber sleeve on the knob, for that reason). Its really easy to make a fine adjustment by swiping with side of foot. I know it doesn't look like it, but it is.
 
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Paulinfl said:
This place is too funny- its clear why many stay away. Enjoy OP. You have many suggestions now. Nothing is essential. Apparently two inputs on a real amp isn't needed and was a waste by amp designers (ie trim), judging by some of the responses (Yek gets it though).
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Don get you really. The vast majority of amps DO only have a single input. More vintage ones had a hi and low input yes - but not to get two guitars to sound the same really. Even so - how many people change guitars onstage by changing the guitar AND switching the input the cable is plugged into? Very Very few if any. You just plug a different guitar onto the end of the cable - which stays in the same input.

If its that important to you, then there are ways round it. How about using the Amp X/Y, with amp X set up for LP and Y set up for strat? same amp block, same EQ settings (ie like a real amp) but different input trim and bright setting (mirroring the hi/low inputs of SOME amps, and the bright switch also used on real amps for different guitars on occasion).
 
I think having a modifier on INPUT (trim or level) is amazing; as I said earlier, I like the option to do something (easily) that you couldn't/wouldn't do on a "real" amp. besides, why would you let that (a "real" amp) be the limits of your imagination? That's not my objective.

A continuous controller on input is awesome whether or not you use a binary switch or various degrees with scenes or a expression pedal; it's a great example of something the AXEFX does far better than any "real amp" IMO.
 
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