I saw an article or video (I don't remember which) on PRS bridge adjustment.Levinson Blade had a regular Gotoh six screw mounted on six knife edge screws on a model for a while. It worked pretty well.
You probably would get quit a bit of post lean if you tried to set up a prs trem on two screws so I wouldn't recommend it. Also if you ever do have to set up the screw hight on a Mann style trem make sure you do it with the strings off and the trem sitting down off the notches. Tweak the hight until it looks like you have them in alignment then test the bridge against it and repeat until it seams to hit the exact centre of each. If the bridge is adjusted close to the body you won't get much leeway to see as the screw heads prevent you from removing the bridge while you do this, you are stuck just dropping it off the notches to see. Once set up you should leave well alone as the whole thing needs to wear in to work at its best. Not an issues because you still adjust everything else like a strat. PRS use steel for the top plate and brass for the block but the first (Mann made ) where one piece solid brass.
I saw an article or video (I don't remember which) on PRS bridge adjustment.
There is a method to properly adjust the screws by measuring in a specific way.
I'll see if I can find it.
Edit:
This video from John Mann is the one I was thinking of. You can jump to the 8 minute mark:
I'm not too knowledgeable on the PRS - I only have a single CE-24... But I think they are all the same basic design.'Smidgen'. LOL!
Does this bridge retrofit into the SE24 Standard from PRS' Indonesia factory?
This is what's in mine. It looks like it may be the same one.I'm not too knowledgeable on the PRS - I only have a single CE-24... But I think they are all the same basic design.
Actually, I rather like the 85/15 pickups and this guitar quite a lot. The fit and finish are quite good. I am just looking to improve tuning stability when yanking the bar. It's not bad now for gentle use, but could be better when used less gently. Some sort of locking tuning machines are eventually going to happen as well....Thats a good tip on getting the notches aligned. I'm not sure I'd put a bridge that costs the entire value of an SE on, especially as the pickups suck and also need replacing. Tuners should go as well. Save your money and get a used USA Custom. Avoid the S2 USA as they have the same hardware and pickups as the SE.
I have been trying to find these, but they have been a bit hard to get ahold of. My Strat will get a set as well when I find them....
According to MannMade's online store, the PRS/MANN bridge will fit all of the PRS models, including the SE.'Smidgen'. LOL!
Does this bridge retrofit into the SE24 Standard from PRS' Indonesia factory?
I'm digging that locking design quite a bit.
I don't know the physics of it or how he's trolling for any sort of benefit, but I've had great luck with that technique. My Strat stays in great tune using that method - it works for me.The Carl Verhayen setup is utter nonsense. Troll physics at its worst.
The angled spring and tension argument is kind of suspect. The strings act in unison, very uniformly, when you rotate the tremolo around the fulcrum, so angling the bass side and treble side doesn't really do what he thinks its doing. If there's a spread of force across the surface of the tremolo block doing it this way, it's subtle.I don't know the physics of it or how he's trolling for any sort of benefit, but I've had great luck with that technique. My Strat stays in great tune using that method - it works for me.
I use this part of his setup, and it works pretty well.The bit about adjusting spring tension and float until you can pull certain strings up a specific number of steps is fine. Nothing magical about it. You could do that and not change the springs the way he does and it'd all work out just as fine.
The main takeaway I get from it is balancing the string tension and the spring tension - that seems to work well for me. The claw angle/tension thing is a leap - I get that. I think his bit about adjusting the upward pull up a specific number of steps is more for performance to give you known intervals to play off of. It also acts as a general guide for how much play to put into the setup.The angled spring and tension argument is kind of suspect. The strings act in unison, very uniformly, when you rotate the tremolo around the fulcrum, so angling the bass side and treble side doesn't really do what he thinks its doing. If there's a spread of force across the surface of the tremolo block doing it this way, it's subtle.
You can find the Reverb item and send them a message. I did that for about 6 months... Finally bought them when they were in stock.I have been trying to find these, but they have been a bit hard to get ahold of. My Strat will get a set as well when I find them....