Preventing Damage to Rig

Robotik

New Member
Hey guys,

I'm very new here; new to modeling, speakers, signal chain... all of it. I've always focused mostly on playing, and less on gear and tone. Previously I've just used crappy practice amps, but I've gotten my playing to a point where upgrading my rig seems reasonable.

I recently got the Axe FX for holiday, and the last thing I want to do is damage it. I've looked over the manual a few times, and it looks like the main reasons for internal damage have to do with the MFC port, and phantom power. Other than that, is there any way to damage the unit? I'm mostly concerned with how certain I/O configurations could damage it, or if hot input/output signals could somehow damage it. For instance, is there anyway speaker choice could hurt the FX unit?

Not sure what this means either (from manual):
"Warning: As with all input/output systems, certain routing configurations can result in audio feedback loops. Please exercise care not to route active outputs to active inputs, or damage could occur to connected amps, speakers, or your hearing."

I think what I'm asking is where can I learn about proper signal chain care, and order of operations as far as turning things on and off in the chain. Above all, I want to protect the FX unit, my speakers are fairly inexpensive.

Sorry for the unfocused post, but I simply can't afford another unit if I blow this one.
Thank you!
 
Don't drop it.

Seriously though, I've had an Axe FX of some form for nearly 10 years now with no issues. You'll be fine, just don't do something silly like plug an amp speaker output to the input or something. Also yes, jamming a usb cable into the MFC port is not advisable either.
 
Not sure what this means either (from manual):
"Warning: As with all input/output systems, certain routing configurations can result in audio feedback loops. Please exercise care not to route active outputs to active inputs, or damage could occur to connected amps, speakers, or your hearing."

This is talking about if you accidentally create an infinite feedback loop in your patch that you've created. I did this once by using feedback send/return blocks. I had the feedback return going into a delay and that delay went back into the feedback send block. It made a very high pitch sound that built up louder and louder. Luckily I instantly realized what I had done and fixed it.


But other than that, just watch out for clipping on any of the inputs or outputs. You can tell if it's clipping by a little red LED that lights up on the front panel, and it'll usually be accompanied by a nasty crackling sound. If output 1 or 2 is clipping then you need to lower the volume of something in your patch.... usually the level parameter in the amp block. If an input is clipping then adjust the input sensitivity in the I/O menu. Adjusting the input sensitivity for your guitar is one of the first things you should do when using it for the first time.
 
I've always used a breakout panel to route the back of my Axe II to the front for input connectivity. There have been some users who have blindly tried to plug in a USB cable into the back of the unit, only to realize they were shoving it into the MFC port, promptly frying the port. You could put a fake plug in the jack, gaffers tape or other method to prevent that from happening.
 
You won't really harm the Axe II with high signal levels or feedback loops. It will simply clip off the signal and sound atrocious, but shouldn't cause any damage. Two main protection concerns for the Axe II are (1) a clean, grounded power source and (2) adequate ventilation. Always use a quality surge protector or power conditioner. They are cheap insurance. Make sure the unit's chassis openings are not covered over or sealed up. Excess heat is bad news for most electronic components. I'd also recommend a screen protector for the Axe II's display window. Some people leave the factory shipping film on, but that looks tacky as hell IMHO. For a few bucks you can pick up a generic tablet screen protector and cut it to fit. It protects better and looks so much neater. Beyond that, the general rule for power up and shutdown is power amps or powered speakers/monitors should be turned on after everything else and then turned off before everything else to avoid any loud pops that can damage speakers.
 
If you're going to phantom power anything through the MIDI port, don't exceed 1 amp in the phantom power jack. Otherwise, you will damage the unit. If you need to exceed 1 amp, or if your external device only accepts 5-pin MIDI, make an external power insertion MIDI patch cable (a few bucks in parts from Amazon).
 
Have any recommendations? I did some searching and it looks like the general recommendation is a voltage regulator, which can get pretty expensive.

Unless you are dealing with large fluctuations in line voltage, a voltage regulator may not really be necessary. The Axe II's power supply will accept anything from 100 to 240 volts AC and will self regulate it's internal voltage output as long as the input is relatively stable. Something like a Furman PL-8C is a pretty standard, reliable power conditioner and surge protector. Even the lower priced merit series units offer decent protection and are far better than a generic power strip. The level of protection you need will depend on your level of risk (gigging vs home/studio use, power stability in your area, etc.).

Oh, and one other thing, if you use an MFC-101 powered via phantom power from the Axe II (Ethercon or FASLink), don't plug or unplug the MFC while the Axe II is powered up. It can damage the phantom power circuit. Always turn the Axe II off first.
 
Does heat become an issue if the axefx 2 is mounted in a Gator 2u soft case with just the front panel and back panel "doors" open while the rest including the sides are covered? Seems like very little ventilation.
 
Does heat become an issue if the axefx 2 is mounted in a Gator 2u soft case with just the front panel and back panel "doors" open while the rest including the sides are covered? Seems like very little ventilation.
most - if not all - rack cases only have the front and rear open, so this seems normal.
 
You could consider a UPS for studio use, If not i would probably unplug it during lighting storms.
 
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