skunc
Experienced
This is really cool! Thanks for sharing.
This is really cool! Thanks for sharing.
When the slots are too deep it causes tuning instabilty. The strings hang up in the slot and you get the dreaded "tink" sound when you try to tune.This is alone not indicative of a problem. (I would agree that it is unattractive-no nut pride to be seen here!).
Another thing I just checked was the bridge radius. I put my 12" radius gauge about 1/4" in front of bridge. Lightly resting on top and plucking each string...there is some buzzing on more than one string. Mostly its my G string that is most pronounced. This was a tip from another vid I watched. It's possible the radius on bridge was never set accurately...
Nice setup vid here and around 11:25 the part about checking bridge radius
Absolutely no point, if it doesn't pinch the string there is no problem . You could also trim it down so the slots are the correct depth in relation to the top.The slots on that nut look way too deep. I'd replace it straight away.
It the slots taper slightly away from the string there is no issue with the extra hight . It's quite useful for heavy handed strumming.When the slots are too deep it causes tuning instabilty. The strings hang up in the slot and you get the dreaded "tink" sound when you try to tune.
These are not fixing the problem they are just negating it . All Les Pauls can work perfectly without this ugly thing.This is really cool! Thanks for sharing.
also this string butler (thanks @yek ) looks like a very cool modification. I just may get one of these and/or replace my tuners with locking ones.
Gonna bring it into the store where I just bought it and tech said he'd look after it as the store includes a free setup in first year anyhow. Curious to see what he finds. Despite these little annoyances, I do appreciate them as learning opportunities. Always improving on my knowledge/skills of maintaining my own guitars.
Not true.When the slots are too deep it causes tuning instabilty. The strings hang up in the slot and you get the dreaded "tink" sound when you try to tune.
This. Too deep would cause buzz, but as long as the width of the slots are correct, the string shouldn't bind regardless of depth.AFAIK, the tink sound from tuning comes from the slot being too tight, not too deep.
Locking tuners can help with tuning, if your existing tuners have lash in the gears (and you forget to tune "up" to pitch.)Also, locking tuners solve a different problem...they make it quicker to change strings. They don't actually do anything for tuning stability unless you're using way too many (or too messy) wraps.
Exactly. The Parabola. I believe the formula (if you can calculate the fgbd radius) is in the Stew Mac book.Yeah, if the fretboard has a compound radius (many modern Les Pauls do), you don't want the bridge radius to match the fretboard radius. It will need a larger radius at the bridge to correctly match the fretboard's conical shape. Using Andy's method of matching to the fretboard itself works for both straight and compound radius fretboards.
Unscrew the thumbscrew completely and bump the locking pin out and check it for burrs. A very light coating of oil on the pin can help keep it from binding or even write on it a bit with a pencil to get some graphite in there if you want to keep it dry.This. Too deep would cause buzz, but as long as the width of the slots are correct, the string shouldn't bind regardless of depth.
Locking tuners can help with tuning, if your existing tuners have lash in the gears (and you forget to tune "up" to pitch.)
I don't know what the deal is with the Schallers on my Majesty, but they are a PITA to get the new string fed through the post! I just changed mine, and I fought with 2 of them. It's like the part that moves vertically upward and pinches the string hangs up when you loosen the knob, and when you try to push the new string through the hole, it hits that part. VERY frustrating! I even try to use the existing string to push that piece downward before I remove it, but there's not much length to grab onto. I'm gonna add a small, pointy tool to my gear toolbox, that I can insert into the posts to get that thing to release. Other than that, yeah I love locking tuners. Never had that problem on my PRS though.
I'll be giving it another minor setup for optimal action. thx for the tipForget the radius, measure the action on each string accurately. Set the relief to no more than 0.0010 but more like 0.0005 and then set the action to 50/1000" on the high E and 60/1000" (at the 12th.) If the bridge has it's string slots cut properly (and it won't because it's a Gibson) you should see a gradual increase to 60/1000". Easier still is set both Es at 50/1000" and adjust the slots until it is exactly 50/1000" on all string then raise the bass E to 60/1000" If you have problems after you have done this you need fret work.
Do this and the bridge matches the fingerboard not a useless radius gauge.
My Gibson does not have compound radius. I got back from speaking with the tech at the shop and he took another look at the guitar. He said my setup was all very good and lightly dressed the saddle on the G which was the suspected culprit. I can lower my action a bit but overall everything is as it should be. I'm going to keep everything stock including the tuners and see how it goes after a few months. He also said the nut is perfectly good. While i was there I did pickup some Power slinkys (10-48's)! I think this will be perfect for this guitar the next time it's ready to change strings.
It looks like a cool solution- similar to the Gumby Headstock. You would need to make a new nut without any string splay....I agree with you, I wouldn't let one of these near one of my LPs.These are not fixing the problem they are just negating it . All Les Pauls can work perfectly without this ugly thing.