Need Some Phaser?

jetdriver1775 said:
Thx guys. I saw that thread some time ago. Tried the settings but couldn’t really make it convincing. Might have to revisit.
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Its tricky for me sometimes. Its like i know thr actual effect sounds good in fractal but i always miss the mark a little bit when trying to get the right amount of effect vs guitar tone. Im always a little off with my mix or lvl lol
 
Jipps0525 said:
Its tricky for me sometimes. Its like i know thr actual effect sounds good in fractal but i always miss the mark a little bit when trying to get the right amount of effect vs guitar tone. Im always a little off with my mix or lvl lol
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J,
Might there be a way of placing the phaser in parallel with the dry signal, and setting the phaser for 100%? That way, you don't get crazy amounts of effect that would require mitigation after the fact. I know it works for reverb and delay, why not phaser?
 
I will look into this and watch a YouTube video or something. To be honest, I know running things in parallel is beneficial somehow But I never tried to do it, or fully understand it’s affect. But you’re right it could specifically help my issue
 
bleujazz3 said:
J,
Might there be a way of placing the phaser in parallel with the dry signal, and setting the phaser for 100%? That way, you don't get crazy amounts of effect that would require mitigation after the fact. I know it works for reverb and delay, why not phaser?
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I have tried putting the Phaser in parallel and it didn't seem to make much of a difference versus series. My early VH preset just uses a the brown amp sim and though you can hear the phaser in it it doesn't take over enough like the real world counterpart does at least that's what I have been hearing for quite a while.
 
Sixstring said:
I have tried putting the Phaser in parallel and it didn't seem to make much of a difference versus series. My early VH preset just uses a the brown amp sim and though you can hear the phaser in it it doesn't take over enough like the real world counterpart does at least that's what I have been hearing for quite a while.
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May I ask, how do you solve the mix/level issue that others seem to be experiencing?
 
bleujazz3 said:
May I ask, how do you solve the mix/level issue that others seem to be experiencing?
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This is the best I could do! The settings that @jetdriver1775 recommended work the best. The parallel settings I tried were 100% wet mix with +3.0dB level and they sounded the same to me. I used the Im the one iso track as a reference for the tone, got as close as I could.
 

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Phaser is a parallel effect already. That's what the MIX controls, the blend between the wet and dry signals. If you want more wet, turn up the MIX. You'll get more pitch warble and less Phase the higher you go beyond 50% but it also depends on the amount of feedback as well. Due to component tolerances in the real pedals the 50/50 mix that many pedals are wired for is not always exactly even. The wet signal is often a touch higher, so try bumping up the mix a bit for more warble.
 
mr_fender said:
Phaser is a parallel effect already. That's what the MIX controls, the blend between the wet and dry signals. If you want more wet, turn up the MIX. You'll get more pitch warble and less Phase the higher you go beyond 50% but it also depends on the amount of feedback as well. Due to component tolerances in the real pedals the 50/50 mix that many pedals are wired for is not always exactly even. The wet signal is often a touch higher, so try bumping up the mix a bit for more warble.
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Lord preserve us...LOL. Did not realize that. Will try using LTs suggestion with Classic Vibe Script 90 for the VH stuff. I think that'll be good for the time...
 
If you want to make the phase effect more pronounced without changing its overall character, try stacking two identical phaser blocks in series. That will create deeper/wider notches in the comb filtering effect while keeping them in the same locations in the frequency spectrum. You'll need to sync the two to the same rate using LFO 1 by turning both of their rate knobs all the way down. You can then use LFO 1's rate to control the rate of both blocks together.

Putting the effect before or after the amp block makes a huge difference as well. Before the amp, the notches get sort of blurred by all the added harmonics of the overdriven amp so it sounds sort of like there's more dry signal bleeding through. With it out front, the more distorted the amp is, the less pronounced the phase effect will sound. Placed after the amp the notches stay clear and the effect is much more pronounced and "processed" sounding.

A twist on the two phaser block trick is to put one in front and then one after the amp block but at very low mix setting. This lets you bring a bit of the original notches back over the top of the Amp block's added harmonics without sounding too filtered and processed.
 
mr_fender said:
If you want to make the phase effect more pronounced without changing its overall character, try stacking two identical phaser blocks in series. That will create deeper/wider notches in the comb filtering effect while keeping them in the same locations in the frequency spectrum. You'll need to sync the two to the same rate using LFO 1 by turning both of their rate knobs all the way down. You can then use LFO 1's rate to control the rate of both blocks together.

Putting the effect before or after the amp block makes a huge difference as well. Before the amp, the notches get sort of blurred by all the added harmonics of the overdriven amp so it sounds sort of like there's more dry signal bleeding through. After the amp they stay clear and the effect is much more pronounced and "processed" sounding.

A twist on the two phaser block trick is to put one in front and then one after the amp block but at very low mix setting. This lets you bring a bit of the original notches back over the top of the Amp block's added harmonics without sounding too filtered and processed.
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IIRC, LT mentioned something about setting up an LFO so that the wave pattern was set to 270°, which would insure the same wavelength every time the phasers were activated. Would that be a better choice, rather than try to control one with the other? I think LT mentions this in his video above...
 
The rate determines the wavelength of the sweep. The reset on bypass option lets you set the phase sweep to start at the same point in the sweep each time the block is enabled. For example say you have a really slow phase sweep set and you always want the phase sound to start low and go up when you step on it. That setting lets you pick where in the sweep it will start each time. Otherwise it's random based on where ever the LFO sweep happens to be whenever you hit the bypass button. The LFO is always "running" in the background with that option off. You can use that setting to sync two phase blocks, but you have to have both blocks activate at the same time using something like a control switch or using scenes.

The other Phase setting in the LFO section determines the relative phase for the LFO between the block's left and right output channels for creating stereo phase effects.
 
mr_fender said:
The rate determines the wavelength of the sweep. The reset on bypass option lets you set the phase sweep to start at the same point in the sweep each time the block is enabled. For example say you have a really slow phase sweep set and you always want the phase sound to start low and go up when you step on it. That setting lets you pick where in the sweep it will start each time. Otherwise it's random based on where ever the LFO sweep happens to be whenever you hit the bypass button. The LFO is always "running" in the background with that option off. You can use that setting to sync two phase blocks, but you have to have both blocks activate at the same time using something like a control switch or using scenes.

The other Phase setting in the LFO section determines the relative phase for the LFO between the block's left and right output channels for creating stereo phase effects.
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That had always been one of EVH's pet peeves. Whenever he purchased a new piece of music equipment from a retail store he'd try to work it so the gear did exactly what he needed. Yet, this was years before digital equipment (at least in stomp boxes) was able to achieve any of this. Does anyone know if the MXR EVH phaser begin its sweep at 270°, as EVH would need for his lead work? I'm genuinely curious, if not cautiously reserved that trying to navigate a store's aisles would produce any CC purchase...
 
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