LP Studio Deluxe II 60's **upgrade choice**

C

codyraptor

Inspired
Hey everyone. I was hoping you could help point me in the right direction. I have a LP Studio Deluxe II..it's completely stock loaded with a stock 409R & BBpro and coil splits. I'm looking into upgrading to get a better overall balance between clean & driven tones. I'm looking at doing several things...

1. Changing pickups out to either Thurnbuckers or Lollar Immperials
2. Should I go with low wind..I've heard those are the best well rounded.
3. Thinking of changing the wiring to series/parallel instead of the current split.
4. (easy change) Screw the stoptail down and wrap the strings.

I'm sure this has probably been discussed..but curious of opinions and/or experience with making these changes to this guitar.

Reason I ask...I have a set amount to purchase a new guitar..but my budget will put me around $1500ish...so I figured maybe spend way less and just upgrade what I have. Style of music normally played : Worship stuff...and I'm currently in an 80's tribute band..so pretty much anything from pop to marshal gainy stuff.

Looking forward to your input!
 
1. Lollar Imperials are awesome. I had regular winds in my LP before going to BKP Rebel Yells (which are different, but I also like). **see below**

2. Low winds will be brighter. You may or may not like that in a LP for PnW music... If you like PAF tones, get regular winds. If you like PAF tones but wish they were a tad brighter, get low winds (or want darker = high winds). Don't forget that your caps play a crucial role in that too. I like NOS Russian PIOs - K-40y...9... something like that - .022's personally. They're cheap, easy to install, and give a really nice roll off on the tone pots. If you're a "leave it on 10" tone knob kinda' guy, this matters far less. DO VINTAGE WIRING SCHEME!

3. No personal input, but I've heard positive things said about this from others... different flavors I suppose, and I assume no volume drop off like you probably get when splitting now.

4. I buy into screwing down the stoptail all the way to the body for better coupling. I like to do something a little weird, over-wrap strings 1-4 and leave 5 & 6 normal... supposedly this lets the beefier notes on those strings have more downward angle on the bridge for better... something... I dunno, I just like the little pocket it makes to rest my hand.

*A couple other things I did to my LP that payed off pretty big for me, (1) bone nut shaped by a qualified tech, and (2) graphtech saddles. I haven't broken a string since I put these guys on (and I change strings monthly at best with lots of play time between), and that was 5 or 6 years ago.

**Pickups** Lots of other great brands out there too, maybe for a better deal at comparable quality. Wolftones, Sheps, Motor City... lots of other good guys I'm forgetting right now (sorry!). Stay away from those $30/set OEM pups, GFS I think they're called? Looks like a steal of a deal, but they're pure crap.
 
I've heard from more than one tech that screwing the stop tail down all the way is a 'common mistake' that puts too much downward pressure of the strings and you are more prone to breakages and possibly bent bridges or tailpieces in some types (albeit after several years)
 
Theurge said:
I've heard from more than one tech that screwing the stop tail down all the way is a 'common mistake' that puts too much downward pressure of the strings and you are more prone to breakages and possibly bent bridges or tailpieces in some types (albeit after several years)
Click to expand...

There's the slightest bit of truth to that, sort of...

TOM bridges are just a plain ol' bad design unless your materials are outstanding. This includes both bridge and saddles. Some sub-par bridges (i.e., chibson OEMs) have been known to collapse with the added pressure of a sunken tailpiece over time. The tailstops themselves aren't affected by this in the least. The likelihood of string breakage does increase with the sharper downward angle created by a sunken tailpiece without over-wrapped ends. You counter this by using lubricated material at the saddle in much the same way you'd use a well-cut nut at the headstock.

Trade offs. Nothing's perfect.
 
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