Help dialing in the bogner amp models.

guitarnerd said:
What does all that achive that you can't get with just the tone controls? I'm on the other end of the spectrum, I never touch anything in the dyn/advance/speaker tab exept the brigth cap value, so I'm always curious to what people are going for when they really tweak alot of stuff you can't tweak on a real amp. Just curious :)
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Some amps don't achieve what some people want to hear with just stock settings. A lot of those controls can make things tighter, looser, warmer, bigger, etc... That's sorta the point of the axefx, no? Why do people mod amps? To achieve what they want to hear out of the amp, right? Why do people buy different speaker cabs? Why do engineers, such as myself, choose specific mics/pres/eqs/compressors?

I think it's all about the users ear. If you can't dial in exactly what you want with stock controls, dig a little deeper ;)
 
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Ok!

I'm not really into changing amps too much. I just want the real amp, exactly like it sounds/feels, but in the Axe :) I'm quite simple like that. If an amp doesn't do it for me, I use another amp :)
 
As said above, these are dark amps. Example:


I owned a few Bogner Ecstasy amps. Those needed Presence turned way up (2 -3 o'clock). It's the same with the Axe-Fx models.

Also, either turn on Bright or turn up Treble. Note that the effect of Bright will diminish when increasing gain. Meaning that at high gain settings you won't hear difference anymore between Bright on and off.

Euro (Ecstasy) Blue is modeled with Boost off and low Structure. Meaning that it's quite low gain. To mimic the real amp's boost, turn on Boost or increase Input Trim.

Euro (Ecstasy) Red is modeled with Boost on and high Structure. Which makes it heavy saturated with lots of bass. Don't hesitate to turn down bass to say 2. What also works well, is keeping Drive low and placing a (low gain) Drive block in front of the Amp block.

Bogners can handle lots of different cabs. Standard speaker is a V30, lots of those among the stock cabs, try the Uber V30 for example. G12M and G12H speakers also sound great with them.
 
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Are you sure about the excursion setting? The wiki says that the structure is off on blue, on on red, not the excursion. The structure is just an overall gain boost.
 
guitarnerd said:
Are you sure about the excursion setting? The wiki says that the structure is off on blue, on on red, not the excursion. The structure is just an overall gain boost.
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Yeah, I was just correcting it. :)
 
Euro Red is probably my favorite model because of its unique sound. I usually keep the bass fairly low (around 4), treble at 6-7, presence to taste (I like it between 9:00 and 11:00). I raise definition to 3 and have sag on 2.

Lately I've been experimenting with damp and power tube bias. I actually like it with the damp completely off and power tube bias around .52. One thing I really like is that when you turn the damp off, the presence control becomes a "hi cut" control. I find it's easier to dial in the highs with the hi cut vs. the presence.

I use the Euro Red with OH V1 and V2 Beta cabs and some of the stock ones. I find that if you're using the stock cabs you have to be careful to pick ones that aren't too bassy, middy, or just dark-sounding overall. With the Euro Red and stock cabs, I keep proximity at 0-1 to stay clear of mud. For a great lead tone I love a combination of the G12M and Basketweave 20. For rhythm, I usually stick to the OH cabs.
 
erockomania said:
Some amps don't achieve what some people want to hear with just stock settings. A lot of those controls can make things tighter, looser, warmer, bigger, etc... That's sorta the point of the axefx, no? Why do people mod amps? To achieve what they want to hear out of the amp, right? Why do people buy different speaker cabs? Why do engineers, such as myself, choose specific mics/pres/eqs/compressors?

I think it's all about the users ear. If you can't dial in exactly what you want with stock controls, dig a little deeper ;)
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For me i think im just trying to match the tone im getting out of my shiva and the other bogners ive played in the past. apparently the controls are not identical. i know the sound its capable of, its just about getting there. im not trying to make it sound like something different. actually the sounds im getting are very close, the main problem im having is that the low end is flubby and when i try to compensate by adjusting the low end, the high end then becomes very brittle and ear piercing. cant seem to find that happy medium. However, a lot of these suggestions have been helping. im getting much closer.

ive always been able to get that dark Jerry cantrell tone with my shiva combo amp and the low end was always tight and punchy. thats what im going for with these models. the euro red seems a little different so for now im sticking with the shiver and uber.
 
you can tweak that stuff on real amps... just takes modding.. thats why there are so many mod shops. sometimes I find myself trying to dial out flub when i can just put an 808 on it and boom... gone. still from my early years, i try to get as much out of the amp as I can before messing with other stuff. I find on the uber increasing the low cut in the amp to get all that low end out of there helps. as well as the definition.
 
yek said:
As said above, these are dark amps. Example:


I owned a few Bogner Ecstasy amps. Those needed Presence turned way up (2 -3 o'clock). It's the same with the Axe-Fx models.

Also, either turn on Bright or turn up Treble. Note that the effect of Bright will diminish when increasing gain. Meaning that at high gain settings you won't hear difference anymore between Bright on and off.

Euro (Ecstasy) Blue is modeled with Boost off and low Structure. Meaning that it's quite low gain. To mimic the real amp's boost, turn on Boost or increase Input Trim.

Euro (Ecstasy) Red is modeled with Boost on and high Structure. Which makes it heavy saturated with lots of bass. Don't hesitate to turn down bass to say 2. What also works well, is keeping Drive low and placing a (low gain) Drive block in front of the Amp block.

Bogners can handle lots of different cabs. Standard speaker is a V30, lots of those among the stock cabs, try the Uber V30 for example. G12M and G12H speakers also sound great with them.
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ive never been able to tame any of the german or Uber Cabs. they are always WAY too boomy. again if i turn down the low end or try and use low cut, SOME of the boominess goes away but then the high end is very shrill.
 
groovenut said:
Try adjusting the transformer match in the advanced parameters. A little does a lot so go slowly. All the magic you are looking for is there. :D
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I'm not really hearing what this does. Can someone explain this parameter? What changes should i be listening for? Th more i turn it up do i have to bump the level on that page?
 
Something that may be compounding the problem is the Atomic FRFR.

I owned an Atomic FRFR (passive) and found it a little bass heavy so I always ran it with the global EQ to cut low-end.
 
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