Groundloop Question

Poparad

Power User
So here's my setup: I have my Axe rackmounted in a 3U case with a 1U frontpanel from Vafam, which brings most of the rear connections to the front. I've been having problems lately with the front input developing a very loud ground loop, but only after it's been running and plugged in for a while. This happens on both input 1 and input 2. So far, quick fixes have been:

1) Turning the Axe off and on again
2) Unplugging the frontpanel's lead from the back of the Axe and plugging it back in again
3) Unplugging from the frontpanel, waiting a while, and plugging back in again.

So, to me it seems like perhaps a small amount of static electricity is perhaps building up in the frontpanel's lead over time, and doing any of the above methods breaks the circuit, allowing the excess to bleed off. When I plug directly into the front or rear inputs on the Axe, I haven't had this problem.

I'm thinking this might have to do with the fact that all of the 1/4" jacks on the front panel are TRS, regardless of whether they're plugging into a stereo or mono input or output. I haven't had any issue with the outputs, as they're meant to accept TRS cables as part of the Humbuster thing. Since my guitar cable is TS, and the input jack on the Axe is mono (TS), I'm thinking that the separate leads for the ring and sleeve of the TRS cable on the frontpanel are creating a loop that slowly picks up electricity over time.

So I'm thinking the solution would be to take apart the TRS jack on the frontpanel's lead and cut the ring or sleeve connection. However, I'm not sure if which one I should cut, or if it even matters. It's been a while since I've inspected a TS jack, and I think it would make contact on the sleeve part (or both) of a TRS cable.

Thoughts?
 
I'd try HumFrees first -on every single item screwed into the rack. They isolate the screws and the rack chassis (what the hell is the plural of chassis? Chassi?) from the rails. Sometimes that's all it takes. I believe you'd cut sleeve. But Humfrees are a better solution, when they work - which, if all the other wiring is ok, is pretty much always.
 
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