FM3 as power source for Line6 Relay G50

[rr32btg]

Hello. Some time ago I saw a message which said that there is an ability to use FM3 as a power source for Line6 Relay. I tried to find some info by myself but no luck. Is there any schematics or instructions how to make a custom cable for that?

 

[Axelman8]

Hey there

This is an xlr schema I got from a forum user buddy. This connection is for the AxeFXIII. From faslink there is 1 data,1 + and 1- pin. If you find the + on the FM3 you can build the cable. The voltage output should be mentioned in the FM3 wiki somewhere.

Cheers

 

[rr32btg]

thank you very much!

 

[kywabunga]

I strongly advise against hot-wiring all 12V of FASLINK power into your G50. You might break your wireless, or worse.

However, you can use a small buck converter to bring it down to the 9V the G50 requires for operation. I was able to cram one into an XLR housing and make a standard negative-center power adapter, which will power just about any 9V stompbox. Works great with my G50.

Worth noting, this is essentially a device hack and FASLINK was not intended to provide power to stompboxes (although the electricity is there and you can use it, within reason). The power draw on the G50 isn't much greater than most pedals (Line6's own supply lists ~500mA), and I can happily report that I've had zero issues running my FM3 with this custom converter for over the past year--but I definitely wouldn't attempt to daisychain additional pedals off it for fear that the additonal power draw may negatively affect the FM3 in some way. For me, this was purely a quality-of-life improvement that allowed my entire rig to run off a single power cable. (Worth it.)

The Elephant: Be careful. If your unit is still under warranty and you happen to roach one of the FM3's internal components by being a mad scientist, it will most certainly be voided.

 

[kywabunga]

For anyone wanting to experiment with one of these nifty things, here's an equivalent converter to the one I used:

Buck Dat!

Not all XLR assemblies can fit the converter, so you may have to experiment to find one that works. I cannibalized an old one so didn't have to shop around. A drop of hot glue on the pot is recommended if you don't use the "cut trace/solder" method for constant output. Also, wrap the entire assembly in heat tubing to prevent grounding issues!

I still have yet to find a good solution for cable strain relief from the output solder joints, but if anyone develops one please let me know. I always roll with a spare handy just in case and I recommend you do the same if you decide to go down this particular wormhole.

Like flashlights in a cave and backups in a studio: two is one and one is none.

Have fun and do your homework!

\m/

 

[rr32btg]

For anyone wanting to experiment with one of these nifty things, here's an equivalent converter to the one I used:

Buck Dat!

Not all XLR assemblies can fit the converter, so you may have to experiment to find one that works. I cannibalized an old one so didn't have to shop around. A drop of hot glue on the pot is recommended if you don't use the "cut trace/solder" method for constant output. Also, wrap the entire assembly in heat tubing to prevent grounding issues!

I still have yet to find a good solution for cable strain relief from the output solder joints, but if anyone develops one please let me know. I always roll with a spare handy just in case and I recommend you do the same if you decide to go down this particular wormhole.

Like flashlights in a cave and backups in a studio: two is one and one is none.

Have fun and do your homework!

\m/

Thank's for advice. I planned to assemble a voltage converter by myself but your option so compact and seems more usable to me.

 

[kywabunga]

It can take a bit of effort to finagle the thing into the housing just right, but it's totally worth it.

A really elegant solution that cleans up the board nicely!

 

[MrPond]

I say: XLR Adapter > Engl converter > Joyo isolator.
Works perfectly with my Digitech Drop.

 

[DoctorJones]

I say: XLR Adapter > Engl converter > Joyo isolator.
Works perfectly with my Digitech Drop.

Can you elaborate on this? I run a Drop pedal on my pedalboard as well and am curious about this. What XLR adapter? I'm not certain what the ENGL converter is.

 

[accuser]

I strongly advise against hot-wiring all 12V of FASLINK power into your G50. You might break your wireless, or worse.

However, you can use a small buck converter to bring it down to the 9V the G50 requires for operation. I was able to cram one into an XLR housing and make a standard negative-center power adapter, which will power just about any 9V stompbox. Works great with my G50.

Worth noting, this is essentially a device hack and FASLINK was not intended to provide power to stompboxes (although the electricity is there and you can use it, within reason). The power draw on the G50 isn't much greater than most pedals (Line6's own supply lists ~500mA), and I can happily report that I've had zero issues running my FM3 with this custom converter for over the past year--but I definitely wouldn't attempt to daisychain additional pedals off it for fear that the additonal power draw may negatively affect the FM3 in some way. For me, this was purely a quality-of-life improvement that allowed my entire rig to run off a single power cable. (Worth it.)

The Elephant: Be careful. If your unit is still under warranty and you happen to roach one of the FM3's internal components by being a mad scientist, it will most certainly be voided.

How many mA does the fas link put out? Asking for a friend.

 

[kywabunga]

How many mA does the fas link put out? Asking for a friend.

From the "Power and Daisy Chaining" Section of the wiki on FASLINK:

"Only the first FC controller gets its power from the Axe-Fx III, FM9 or FM3 through FASLINK. Additional FC controllers have to be powered separately through their power ports. Use a 9-12V power supply, 1000 ma, negative center, 2.5mm barrel."

Pretty safe to consider FASLINK as a standard pedal adapter (i.e, a 1-Spot), and can be relatively assured it'll accomplish any similar tasks with ease. Most pedals don't come close to drawing 1000mA, but I would definitely be sure to check the specific requirements of anything you want to power off of FASLINK before attempting it--and similarly reiterate my caution against attempting to draw too much power from the FM3.

 

[accuser]

From the "Power and Daisy Chaining" Section of the wiki on FASLINK:

"Only the first FC controller gets its power from the Axe-Fx III, FM9 or FM3 through FASLINK. Additional FC controllers have to be powered separately through their power ports. Use a 9-12V power supply, 1000 ma, negative center, 2.5mm barrel."

Pretty safe to consider FASLINK as a standard pedal adapter (i.e, a 1-Spot), and can be relatively assured it'll accomplish any similar tasks with ease. Most pedals don't come close to drawing 1000mA, but I would definitely be sure to check the specific requirements of anything you want to power off of FASLINK before attempting it--and similarly reiterate my caution against attempting to draw too much power from the FM3.

Thank you, sir!

Apologies from this noob! I really do need to use the wiki more often! Got a whole plethora of information on there!

 

[MrPond]

Can you elaborate on this? I run a Drop pedal on my pedalboard as well and am curious about this. What XLR adapter? I'm not certain what the ENGL converter is.

There is a whole thread about this topic.
The idea is to solder a XLR adapter for your FasLINK port - because it has power (12V).
The Engl converter (around 15$) converts it to 9V, the Joyo isolator (around 10$) isolates the power signal to avoid hum.

 

[DoctorJones]

There is a whole thread about this topic.
The idea is to solder a XLR adapter for your FasLINK port - because it has power (12V).
The Engl converter (around 15$) converts it to 9V, the Joyo isolator (around 10$) isolates the power signal to avoid hum.

Yeah, I probably should have searched before asking. Thanks for the info.

 

[kywabunga]

There is a whole thread about this topic.
The idea is to solder a XLR adapter for your FasLINK port - because it has power (12V).
The Engl converter (around 15$) converts it to 9V, the Joyo isolator (around 10$) isolates the power signal to avoid hum.

The approach using an Engl converter is certainly a popular way around the problem. I had looked over some threads detailing the idea but ultimately decided against it because it lost in every category that mattered to me:

• It has significantly more points of failure.
• It takes up more room on the board.
• It costs more money and requires far more weight & space in order to have a back-up on hand. (You can make roughly 4-6 buck adapters for the cost of a single Engl load-out.)
• It still requires soldering and doesn't save you any time or need for expertise.
• The addition of the JOYO isolator appears to be a necessary bandaid, as many users' experiences have suggested. This never inspired confidence.
• In my opinion, it's aesthetically and functionally clumsy, and my tastes would probably opt against it even if it won in every other category.

I'm elated that the Engl approach works well for you any many other guitarists out there, but for my needs and the rigors of touring it was never worth serious consideration. I'm also happy to report that the buck converter I assembled has never required any sort of power filtering, and has worked perfectly over numerous US fly-in dates, as well as a 3-week tour through multiple European countries.

But in the end, this is just what worked best for me. Y'all in Fractaland are more than welcome to take the scenic route if it appeals to you.

 

[MrPond]

The approach using an Engl converter is certainly a popular way around the problem. I had looked over some threads detailing the idea but ultimately decided against it because it lost in every category that mattered to me:

• It has significantly more points of failure.
• It takes up more room on the board.
• It costs more money and requires far more weight & space in order to have a back-up on hand. (You can make roughly 4-6 buck adapters for the cost of a single Engl load-out.)
• It still requires soldering and doesn't save you any time or need for expertise.
• The addition of the JOYO isolator appears to be a necessary bandaid, as many users' experiences have suggested. This never inspired confidence.
• In my opinion, it's aesthetically and functionally clumsy, and my tastes would probably opt against it even if it won in every other category.

I'm elated that the Engl approach works well for you any many other guitarists out there, but for my needs and the rigors of touring it was never worth serious consideration. I'm also happy to report that the buck converter I assembled has never required any sort of power filtering, and has worked perfectly over numerous US fly-in dates, as well as a 3-week tour through multiple European countries.

But in the end, this is just what worked best for me. Y'all in Fractaland are more than welcome to take the scenic route if it appeals to you.

• i have it under my Temple Audio, it does not waist any space
• compared to a regular pedalboard, you still have less points of failure.
  And: You need power in every way - an additional power supply is imho a more serious point of failure compared to the power of your FM3
• 15$ to have a well-built closed solution is imho not to beat
• just put it under your board if you don't like the looks

I think your arguments are easy to beat But just do it your way, no hard feelings
I'm also a live player and everything works reliable.

I think the Engl converter is nothing to work "around a problem" - it's just a converter.
Other pedals need 12V, then skip the converter ..

 

[kywabunga]

• i have it under my Temple Audio, it does not waist any space

My pedal board rests flush with the floor and I am unable to hide things underneath it.

• compared to a regular pedalboard, you still have less points of failure.
  And: You need power in every way - an additional power supply is imho a more serious point of failure compared to the power of your FM3

I agree that as a device intended for professional use, the FM3's power is likely more reliable than what comes out of a 1-Spot. However, I disagree that using a 1-Spot introduces less points of failure than the EnglJOYO solution you describe. Connections between devices are where almost all failures on a pedalboard occur, and in general, having less of them equals greater reliability. I suspect that one of the barrel connections on the JOYO will be among the first components to fail.

• 15$ to have a well-built closed solution is imho not to beat

$15 for an Engl transformer, in my opinion, is not less than $3 for a buck converter. I also think that having a exposed transformer on a pedalboard is far less "closed" than tucking a converter inside an XLR housing.

I do suspect that transformers have a longer lifespan than buck converters. However, the fact that you can build 3 finished buck adapters for the price of a single Engl transformer--before evening having to worry about the JOYO device--makes this an acceptable trade-off for my needs.

• just put it under your board if you don't like the looks

My pedal board rests flush with the floor and I am unable to hide things underneath it.

I think your arguments are easy to beat But just do it your way, no hard feelings

The majority of my issues with the EnglJOYO weren't even addressed, and you're sorely mistaken if you think that I'm trying "argue" that your approach doesn't work, doesn't work for you, or that you should alter your set-up.

Like I said before, I'm thrilled that you have something that works for you! It's just that the EnglJOYO solution doesn't work for me due to what I consider significant drawbacks, and the approach will continue to be out-of-the-question until I'm provided with a technical basis on which to change my opinion, or something better than miniature buck converters comes along. You might not consider those drawbacks to be issues whatsoever, possibly even advantages, and it's perfectly valid when discussing why something works for your set-up. However, "I prefer this way better" isn't a technical basis for comparison, and doesn't quite cut it for anyone with more stringent requirements seeking to make more informed choices.

Anyone's individual form, function, or aesthetic requirements are not anything I'll ever suggest that I know better. I'm only explaining what worked best for me and why so that other people have more options to go from and more knowledge at hand before they decide to jump into what's arguably a super cool use of FASLINK. If anyone has similar requirements to mine however, I suspect they might appreciate hearing about an approach using buck converters.

 

[MrPond]

The engl converter is filtered and the joyo isolator is not required, it depends on your powered device. To my knowledge, the engl converter is identical to your converter but just in a nice small box. So i still don’t get it.

 

[kywabunga]

...i still don’t get it.

I'm not expecting that you will, nor was it my focus.

Glad you're happy with your setup!

 

[rjones5766]

Thought I'd chime in and offer an alternative solution that I've been using for a while now (don't want to risk my FM3 or FM9). I power my 9V devices (eg Line 6 wireless) using a USB power bank and Ripcord from MyVolts.com. Never had a problem with these. USB power banks (batteries) are so cheap these days and come in so many shapes and sizes that I pretty much have every 9V - 18V device attached to one using a Velcro strip and connected via a Ripcord.