Floyd Post Broke through Schecter! / NGD

State of Epicicity said:
I had to look up Dr. Duck's. I love the website! I always use balanced tension D'Addario XLs these days. I've had two guitars with twisted necks, and that kind of scarred me! I love the feel of balanced tension sets anyway. Plus they're easy enough to find and affordable.

I've tried so many different strings, and for a while I did play LaBella actually. I have this love of guitar technology, so I've experienced these situations in which I buy something very cool for which you can't get parts when the product inevitably is dropped by the manufacturer. Case in point: Floyd Rose Speed loader strings. So I'm wary of going to small brands for something I use all the time, upon which I base my decisions about pickup choice, wiring, signal chain, all that. I know with D'Addario they never come with little rusty sections because of their great packaging, they sound good, and even the not fancy XLs last a really long time because I wash my hands before I play.
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Have you tried the NYXL balanced tension set? If so, how do they compare to the regular XL balanced tension set?
 
SweetPete said:
Have you tried the NYXL balanced tension set? If so, how do they compare to the regular XL balanced tension set?
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I have! To me they didn't last any longer, but take that with a grain of salt, because string life totally has to do with your hands in particular. And I'm embarrassed to say that I never did an A/B comparison of XL to NYXL. Wherever I change anything about my guitar, action, overall setup, pickup height, wiring change, whatever, I dial in new tones from scratch to optimize the new tone of the instrument, even though some changes are subtle, they feel huge to be haha.

But I stopped with the NYXLs because I really didn't perceive a difference in the end. My XLs last so long with hand washing, and I'm not wanting for tone compared to the NYXLs.

I'll tell you what I would jump for in a second: balanced tension heavy core strings or balanced tension pure nickel strings. That would be the way for me if I were going to switch to anything else.
 
Shask said:
Sadly, this seems common for the Sun Valley guitars. I have been hesitant to buy one because of the numerous reports of similar issues.
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I totally didn't know! Could you post any links to where you've similar accounts? I can't believe I didn't even think to see if this is common at all.
 
State of Epicicity said:
Man, what you're describing about it being so easy to manipulate the wood just makes me think it also makes it less suitable for a Floyd, for that one section where the routing makes the body so thin, yet it has to sustain the stress of the trem post.

I mean all but maybe two screw holes in this body have needed toothpicks just to keep the screws in over time. Twice the strap button failed, even after reinforcing. It's crazy. I think it looks awesome, but if they're all like this I would only want to use black limba as a cap or something. Unless there was a piece that really had great tone, then maybe a fixed bridge with some great reinforced strap button engineering.
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The guitar has a sunken Floyd. He’s been playing it for over a year and it’s holding up.
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Shask said:
I know I have seen this a few times, but only found one link at the moment....

https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/ngd-schecter-fail.328588/
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Dude, thank you so much for linking that. I just read the whole thread. Man, what a thing to happen with any consistency. Well, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed. At least I know now from one astute observer in that thread that one should always lift any foam under the Floyd of a potential guitar purchase to see if the post area is cracked. I actually have a checklist of things to examine in a new guitar, and I just added that to the list!
 
Andy Eagle said:
The whole thing has collapsed. The options are 1; send it back as this is a defect in production. 2; carefully piece it all back together, glue and clamping . you could than see about fitting one of these;
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Or the last and most complex is rout out a larger piece and glue a block of harder wood instead and re rout to the same speck ( expensive and will change the tone.) I would opt for getting Schecter to replace the body as that is clearly not your fault and it the result of it not being fit for the purpose it was sold . In the UK that alone would make them responsible for repair to a high standard or a replacement free of charge even when out of warranty because it should last a "reasonable" time if used correctly and with a guitar that will be a few years.
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Dude, you're suggestions have been sitting with me, and I ended up just doing a reverse image search for the trem post support bracket, which brought up a couple of Amazon listings that would take a while to get here. Thank you for letting me know this exists!!! Would you recommend installing this to a new guitar with soft wood to prevent this from happening? I see this has happened to other brands too, where sometimes it's not as extreme and shows up instead as a source of tuning instability! Man, the things you learn.
 
State of Epicicity said:
Dude, you're suggestions have been sitting with me, and I ended up just doing a reverse image search for the trem post support bracket, which brought up a couple of Amazon listings that would take a while to get here. Thank you for letting me know this exists!!! Would you recommend installing this to a new guitar with soft wood to prevent this from happening? I see this has happened to other brands too, where sometimes it's not as extreme and shows up instead as a source of tuning instability! Man, the things you learn.
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You shouldn't need too but it is an option. It only happens when the rout is poorly designed to not support the studs and the grain is coincidentally weak at this point. Plenty of basswood guitars with floyds that this never happens too. Ibanez RG550s for example.
 
State of Epicicity said:
Tonight, I noticed the post on the treble side of my Floyd was butted up against the pickguard of my Schecter Sun Valley Super Shredder Exotic FR Black Limba, so I took a deeper look and saw that the post has broken through the body of the guitar itself! I have two questions:

Does anyone have any good advice for how to fix this?

Does anyone have any good contacts at Schecter who might be able to help?

I bought this guitar in May of 2021, and the one odd thing I noticed was that the body wood, the black limba, is extremely soft. Many of the screws for the pickguard, the floyd spring claw in the back, and the strap buttons have all gotten loose with no threading in the wood over time. My remedy was to put toothpicks in those holes to give the screws something to grip onto. But this? This is a different level. I play in E standard, and I could maybe understand if I was using ridiculously heavy strings that a Floyd couldn't handle, but here are the only strings I've ever used with the guitar:

D'Addario EXL125 (9-46)
D'Addario NYXL1046 (10-46)
D'Addario EXL120BT (9-40)
D'Addario EXL110BT (10-46)

I've been using the EXL110BT (balanced tension) set for the past month or so. The guitar comes from the factory with the Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky #2222 (.009-.046) set, so using balanced tension 10s shouldn't be a big deal. I think the wood they used for this is just too damn soft.

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Epoxy
 
Andy Eagle said:
Read the thread.
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No need, looked at the op picture. I've done the same repair with epoxy a few times - hardens the wood and will be stronger than original. Only downside is the threaded insert can't be pulled back out without bringing wood with it. Use masking tape to keep epoxy out of the insert threads and off other areas remove the tape before the epoxy sets. Thin cyanoacrylate glue into the cracked wood to reinforce first.
 
NeoSound said:
No need, looked at the op picture. I've done the same repair with epoxy a few times - hardens the wood and will be stronger than original. Only downside is the threaded insert can't be pulled back out without bringing wood with it. Use masking tape to keep epoxy out of the insert threads and off other areas remove the tape before the epoxy sets. Thin cyanoacrylate glue into the cracked wood to reinforce first.
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No really READ the thread . We are long past a repair.
 
Andy Eagle said:
You shouldn't need too but it is an option. It only happens when the rout is poorly designed to not support the studs and the grain is coincidentally weak at this point. Plenty of basswood guitars with floyds that this never happens too. Ibanez RG550s for example.
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Cool, thanks. I'll take a look at the grain of the replacement and see what to do. I may just order one now anyway just to have it on the way since they're inexpensive but take a while to get here. It's crazy how many devices have been invented to improve the design of a Floyd.
 
NeoSound said:
No need, looked at the op picture. I've done the same repair with epoxy a few times - hardens the wood and will be stronger than original. Only downside is the threaded insert can't be pulled back out without bringing wood with it. Use masking tape to keep epoxy out of the insert threads and off other areas remove the tape before the epoxy sets. Thin cyanoacrylate glue into the cracked wood to reinforce first.
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Thanks very much for the tip anyway! This stuff is great to know in case.
 
I was reading up on balanced tension strings as I'd not considered them before. I read in various comments that they offer a more equal feel across strings but I did not see anywhere that they benefit floating trem performance. Would a more balanced side to side floating trem tension not be a main benefit of balanced tension strings?, or does a balanced tension across a floating bridge (more even from post to post) not really matter that much?
 
sprint said:
I was reading up on balanced tension strings as I'd not considered them before. I read in various comments that they offer a more equal feel across strings but I did not see anywhere that they benefit floating trem performance. Would a more balanced side to side floating trem tension not be a main benefit of balanced tension strings?, or does a balanced tension across a floating bridge (more even from post to post) not really matter that much?
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I tried them last year, and I didn't like the Balanced Tension strings at all. I typically like heavy bottom - light type type sets (9-46, 10-49, etc...), and the BT strings felt opposite. The plain strings had more tension than the wound strings. It just felt wrong, lol.
 
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