Do-It-Yourself midi foot controller

prometh

prometh

Power User
No MIDI foot controller on the market fits my needs, so I've been seriously considering building my own.

I need:
  1. A small chassis, similar to the MIDI Moose, except 2 rows of 8–10...[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  2. ...Heavy-duty Carling-style footswitches[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  3. Single-color LEDs[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  4. 20+ character (transflective?) display[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  5. 4–8 expression pedal jacks[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  6. 4–8 external switch jacks[/*:m:1r7t35l2]
  7. 7-pin MIDI with phantom power[/*:m:1r7t35l2]

Basically, very similar to the MFC-101, but shaped differently and minus all the advanced (and as a result, expensive) features. Each switch would function only for patch changing.

For the software, I plan to use Pedal Box, a project built on "MIDIbox". However, it claims that it does not support Sysex. Would that cause an issue?

My biggest problem right now is that I haven't been able to find a housing/chassis in the shape I'm after. Anyone know of anything?
 
There's a thread on here somewhere where someone rehoused an FCB1010 in a custom chassis. It turned out pretty cool. Maybe you can get pointers from him.
 
I rehoused my FCB1010. Through a lucky coincidence, as a favor I was able to get a SS enclosure made for free. I could not find a stock enclosure to fit, the larger sizes aren't available in a height suited for a pedalboard. Hammond makes a 6" x 10" enclosure, same size as the LF jr IIRC. You might be able to bolt a couple of those together. Another possibility is finding a narrow 1U rack enclosure and modifying. I wanted mine to be as small as possible, while allowing 3" switch spacing. This worked out to 7.5" x 13.5"

Mine has 12 footswitches total, sounds like your looking at more than that plus more jacks. The switches, jacks, LED's & housings were around $80 bucks. Cost for a single custom enclosure would be upwards of $200 from the inquiries I made. With a stock enclosure, you'll have to drill all holes and cut square opening for LCD.

IMO, you're mistaken about the MFC's extra features being expensive. The cost of enclosure, switching and other components, and assembly labor would be the lion's share of the total. I put a lot of hours into this project, just adapting a ready-made unit. You'll be doing a lot more from scratch. That MidiBox does look attractive, but it looks like you still need a complete MIDI pedalboard in order to use it.

As an addendum to my project, modding the FCB's EXP pedal inputs to external jacks worked fine at first. After a couple of months, moving the expression pedal (my crybaby/SP1 DIY) would cause the FCB to reboot randomly. A lot of testing and resoldering, it still does it. I suspect a ground issue, because the EXP pedals use 5v CV. Possibly isolating the jacks from the chassis would fix it, but I'm just running the pedal into the AxeFX inputs for now because I got tired of dealing with it :( Now I'm wondering if I could fit a MidiBox module inside to run a couple of EXP inputs, maybe even a multi-connect breakout for a separate expander unit.

mc1a.jpg

mc1b.jpg

mc1c.jpg

mc1j.jpg

mc1l.jpg
 
Here's a rather old and somewhat convoluted design of mine. I've designed much simpler and more powerful since.

http://www.gmarts.org/html/mfc.htm

There's a simple project at the end of the article with code and schematic. No MIDI input, no LCD display (so no AxeFX tuner either). Might be of interest.
 
oscarecroe said:
This might interest both of you: http://highlyliquid.com/midi-controllers/midi-cpu/
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks! I might order one of those sometime soon

tubetonez said:
The cost of enclosure, switching and other components, and assembly labor would be the lion's share of the total. I put a lot of hours into this project, just adapting a ready-made unit. You'll be doing a lot more from scratch.
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks. I'll keep that in mind. I'll have to make a list of all the parts required with costs before buying anything
 
tubetonez said:
I rehoused my FCB1010. Through a lucky coincidence, as a favor I was able to get a SS enclosure made for free....
mc1a.jpg
Click to expand...
Someone has a very, VERY good friend in a sheet metal factory!!!! That's not something you can just whip out in 20 minutes, THAT requires expensive tooling!!!!! Nice to have such a good friend that would spend that kind of time on the project for you.
 
oscarecroe said:
This might interest both of you:
[http://highlyliquid.com/midi-controllers/midi-cpu/]
Haven't gone for it myself yet, but I'm starting to lean that way.The box itself and buttons, etc.????
Maybe easier than :
[http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=pedal_box#introduction] , but who knows till we try?
Good luck & keep us posted,
OS
Click to expand...

Well, that's interesting.

I built a MIDI pedal last year in a hammond sloped enclosure. It worked OK but I had a hardware glitch I could never track down and now don't use it because I can't trust it. I pulled out my other microcontroller board and started thinking about taking another go at this but I haven' tyet.

The MIDI CPU might save me a lot of trouble and make no mistake, its a lot of trouble when you get beyond sending basic program change messages. I enjoy programming but building out all the menu and configuration code to make these things comparable to off-the-shelf models can get tedious in a hurry. I found myself compromising what I wanted because it was taking a long time to build the code.
 
Chris Hurley said:
The MIDI CPU might save me a lot of trouble
Click to expand...

Having read the manual, this appears ideal for situations where you just want to fire off a MIDI message based on a switch or pot. If you wanted a bunch of program change switches, this would appear to be a really easy way to get there.

I apologize in advance if I'm mistaken but I don't really see anything in the manuals to suggest that this would be a good fit to manage IA's in relation to patches right from the board. A typical controller application for guitar is to have a row or more of patches and a row or more of IA's that are associated with patches. Changing to a new patch reloads the appropriate IA set and depending on whether or not you need it, the CC messages are sent along with the PC message. I'm not seeing how you could accomplish that with the firmware here.

I could be wrong- I'd like to be wrong, actually. :)

EDIT: Here's a forum thread that might be interesting: http://forum.highlyliquid.com/showthread.php?t=341
 
Hey Chris,
Thanks for the heads up on that thread! I hadn't seen it before.John at Highlyliquid seems to really throw himself into the process. Maybe if enough AXE-FX users chime in, he'll help us put something unique together.
Prometh, I didn't look that deeply at the other things they offer at Highly Liquid, but maybe they have something there to support that display.(or maybe they'll build it if we ask!!)
With respect, Otis
 
Spoons said:
Someone has a very, VERY good friend in a sheet metal factory!!!! That's not something you can just whip out in 20 minutes, THAT requires expensive tooling!!!!! Nice to have such a good friend that would spend that kind of time on the project for you.
Click to expand...
Looks laser cut to me, which means no tooling--just programming.
 
LMO said:
Looks laser cut to me, which means no tooling--just programming.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, maybe. The holes have the characteristic shinny ring around them like they were punched (maybe a turret press and that too requires programming), I've never seen that shinny ring on any of our laser cut SST parts; and then there are the forming tools, and the TIG welding. Any way you look at it, that project cost someone some time and therefore some money.

Still a neat project and a GOOD friend! ! ! !
 
LMO said:
Spoons said:
Someone has a very, VERY good friend in a sheet metal factory!!!! That's not something you can just whip out in 20 minutes, THAT requires expensive tooling!!!!! Nice to have such a good friend that would spend that kind of time on the project for you.
Click to expand...
Looks laser cut to me, which means no tooling--just programming.
Click to expand...

It was laser cut, sent them the CAD layout. Mis-measured on the switch holes, had to enlarge them a bit, drill a few small screw holes and enlarge the display cutout a smidge - man that SS is some hard stuff! The corners are all welded & ground smooth, looks like a restaurant kitchen counter lol.

Lucked out on the friend connection, a supplier for my empolyer. Never met the guy but I helped him out with some computer stuff.
 
tubetonez said:
It was laser cut, sent them the CAD layout. Mis-measured on the switch holes, had to enlarge them a bit, drill a few small screw holes and enlarge the display cutout a smidge - man that SS is some hard stuff! The corners are all welded & ground smooth, looks like a restaurant kitchen counter lol.

Lucked out on the friend connection, a supplier for my empolyer. Never met the guy but I helped him out with some computer stuff.
Click to expand...
Aha, drill out the laser holes, THAT accounts for the shinny rings around the holes!! Our sheet metal factory uses SST all the time, it hard on tooling!!!
 
This is getting me interested in taking another crack at a MIDI pedal. For those of you with a little programming experience, I highly recommend the Ardunio Atmel-based boards. They are programmed with C/C++ but Arduino has some training wheels that make it easier to get started.

I'm using the Teensy++ boards in my projects because they are very affordable, have lots of memory (for these sorts of devices) and lots of pins to handle switches, LED's, etc... I think the Arduino Mega board may have more I/O but its very large.

The biggest problem for me is dealing with the cutout for the LCD panel. I'm having trouble making a clean cutout for the LCD and creating some sort of clear cover. Its hard to cut the clear 'plexiglas' like material that one gets from Lowes without splintering and cracking. Anyone have any ideas when a CNC cutter is not available?
 
Chris Hurley said:
...The biggest problem for me is dealing with the cutout for the LCD panel. I'm having trouble making a clean cutout for the LCD and creating some sort of clear cover. Its hard to cut the clear 'plexiglas' like material that one gets from Lowes without splintering and cracking. Anyone have any ideas when a CNC cutter is not available?
Click to expand...
Band saw is a reasonable way of cutting it because the teeth are ALWAYS going through the material from only one direction, MUCH less possibility of chipping/breaking the material. Sand the edges with a belt sander to smooth things out a bit.
 
Spoons said:
Chris Hurley said:
...The biggest problem for me is dealing with the cutout for the LCD panel. I'm having trouble making a clean cutout for the LCD and creating some sort of clear cover. Its hard to cut the clear 'plexiglas' like material that one gets from Lowes without splintering and cracking. Anyone have any ideas when a CNC cutter is not available?
Click to expand...
Band saw is a reasonable way of cutting it because the teeth are ALWAYS going through the material from only one direction, MUCH less possibility of chipping/breaking the material. Sand the edges with a belt sander to smooth things out a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I might go for a thicker material if I use the bandsaw.

One idea I had was to go ahead and nibble the metal on the chassis, or use a saw of some sort , making it a little bigger than necessary and then painting the back of the plexiglas except for a small taped off area to allow an unpainted area for the LCD to poke through.

I'm still planning what I want to do with it. This is as much about a fun building project for me as it is to have a useful floor controller. If anyone wants to chat about such things, I'm up for it.
 
Chris Hurley said:
...One idea I had was to go ahead and nibble the metal on the chassis, or use a saw of some sort...
Click to expand...
If you use a saw of some sort on stainless steel make absolutely sure that you use cutting oil on the blade!!! Stainless steel WILL build up on the blade and make the blade very hot if you don't use cutting oil!
 
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