D.I.Y. Amplifier - A 200W Class D module amp build for $250 total

Hi @Mystic38. How is this project going? Still running the same setup or anything you have/would change? Also, if you wanted to run stereo, I guess you need to duplicate the same setup but maybe with one transformer? (I know just enough to be dangerous). Would like to make a rack mounted (ideally stereo) version of this.

Also you mentioned a thread for the cabinet but can't find that. Would you mind sharing please? 🙏

Thanks for sharing all this 👍
 
CrazyDiamond said:
Hi @Mystic38. How is this project going? Still running the same setup or anything you have/would change? Also, if you wanted to run stereo, I guess you need to duplicate the same setup but maybe with one transformer? (I know just enough to be dangerous). Would like to make a rack mounted (ideally stereo) version of this.

Also you mentioned a thread for the cabinet but can't find that. Would you mind sharing please? 🙏

Thanks for sharing all this 👍
Click to expand...

My setup is still the same.. the mono 200W amp on top of a PRS 212 with open back and a pair of celestion F12-x200. This is not an idela cabinet to match the low frequency response and being open back and 2ft from a rear wall, there is some mild hump in response around 120Hz that i take out with the OUTEQ in the FM9.

Overall tho, the amp has been flawless, and has absolutely zero background hiss/hum/buzz, and i noted above it compares extremely favorably against my $4000 audio amp from Classe.

Regarding your project, the IcePower 200ASC module has both power supply and power amp.This unit can actually supply the power for an additional power amp module, the (IcePower 200AC) . This second power amp only module is like $70... so thats pretty much $200 for a 200W stereo amp.. all other costs are wires, connectors and cases.

The two channels are completely independent so no "additional transformer" is required.. I think in this case knowing less is better than "enough to be dangerous" lol!

This is a very straightforward build. though not "easy" per se, just follow my recommendations and read everything many times and it should be fine.

fwiw ghent audio has a case for stereo operation similar to the one i used (link above) but it is not rack mount... There would certainly be plenty of space in a 2u rack for everything, with more than adequate room for fanless operation.
 
Mystic38 said:
My setup is still the same.. the mono 200W amp on top of a PRS 212 with open back and a pair of celestion F12-x200. This is not an idela cabinet to match the low frequency response and being open back and 2ft from a rear wall, there is some mild hump in response around 120Hz that i take out with the OUTEQ in the FM9.

Overall tho, the amp has been flawless, and has absolutely zero background hiss/hum/buzz, and i noted above it compares extremely favorably against my $4000 audio amp from Classe.

Regarding your project, the IcePower 200ASC module has both power supply and power amp.This unit can actually supply the power for an additional power amp module, the (IcePower 200AC) . This second power amp only module is like $70... so thats pretty much $200 for a 200W stereo amp.. all other costs are wires, connectors and cases.

The two channels are completely independent so no "additional transformer" is required.. I think in this case knowing less is better than "enough to be dangerous" lol!

This is a very straightforward build. though not "easy" per se, just follow my recommendations and read everything many times and it should be fine.

fwiw ghent audio has a case for stereo operation similar to the one i used (link above) but it is not rack mount... There would certainly be plenty of space in a 2u rack for everything, with more than adequate room for fanless operation.
Click to expand...
Amazing, thanks so much for the additional info, that is good news. I'll get ordering/planning tonight!
 
What would be the best way of allowing a cab with one of these amps inside to support both active and passive (if connected to an external amp instead)? I was thinking two separate sockets, one for active that connects to internal amp inputs (then on to the speaker) and one for passive that connects directly to the speaker. My concern is if using the passive connection (external amp), won't that current go to the speaker and then back up the internal amp output cables?
 
CrazyDiamond said:
What would be the best way of allowing a cab with one of these amps inside to support both active and passive (if connected to an external amp instead)? I was thinking two separate sockets, one for active that connects to internal amp inputs (then on to the speaker) and one for passive that connects directly to the speaker. My concern is if using the passive connection (external amp), won't that current go to the speaker and then back up the internal amp output cables?
Click to expand...
A simple cliff jack with NO and NC contacts would let you connect the amp when nothing is plugged in, or disconnect the amp when a cable is plugged into the jack.

If the amp is turned on in that cabled state though it could get ugly with no load on the amp outputs.
 
CrazyDiamond said:
What would be the best way of allowing a cab with one of these amps inside to support both active and passive (if connected to an external amp instead)? I was thinking two separate sockets, one for active that connects to internal amp inputs (then on to the speaker) and one for passive that connects directly to the speaker. My concern is if using the passive connection (external amp), won't that current go to the speaker and then back up the internal amp output cables?
Click to expand...

Given that the speaker selection for this type of FRFR cab are tonally not a good choice for a regular guitar amp, this is very likely not an option that would usually be used... as in.. kinda pointless plugging a Marshall head into a 212 FRFR cabinet..it works but meh..

However, the way to do this would most securely be done with a speaker selector switch that can support two amps and one pair of speakers. A well designed box of this sort would employ break before make contacts (just in case) but regardless I would say to always want to ensure that the correct amp is selected PRIOR to powering on the gear to be used.
 
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