Custom pedalboard for MFC and Mission pedals

woodnwire85

woodnwire85

Inspired
I've been planning out a pedalboard in my head ever since I received my MFC. I've wanted an easy way to move my MFC with both of my Mission EP-1 pedals around all together. I don't gig often, but would like to have something once another gig comes up. I'm also very fortunate to own and operate my guitar shop as a side business and have a fully stocked woodworking shop that I built in my garage. I do mostly repairs and mods for the guitar shop, but also some custom work from time to time for myself or my customers.

I'm loosely basing this board off the one I saw by Objector here: http://forum.fractalaudio.com/axe-f...who-has-coolest-pedalboard-them-all-i-do.html Kudos to him!

I'm going to build mine with some sides on it to protect my EP-1 pedals and their jacks and plugs from getting stepped on and broken. I'll be using 13-ply 3/4" birch plywood, screws, Titebond III glue, fuzzy Velcro for the bottom, black Taurus tolex for the outside and maybe some amp corners.

Here are the mockups with some pieces I have cut:








Getting it together after cutting to size:




Here it is with it just screwed together to test fit everything before glue:






The grand plan is to have the area in the back be covered by another piece while on a piano hinge. This way I can get to my cables and connections on the back of the MFC without removing it from the board. I also left enough room to store extra cables or whatever I need at reach. It's still a work in progress on the final design, but I've found out with woodworking experience that I work better by just going with an idea and let it snowball into something more as I work on it rather than write it all out on paper. I'll continue updating the thread as I progress through this project.
 
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woodnwire85 said:
I've been planning out a pedalboard in my head ever since I received my MFC. I've wanted an easy way to move my MFC with both of my Mission EP-1 pedals around all together. I don't gig often, but would like to have something once another gig comes up. I'm also very fortunate to own and operate my guitar shop as a side business and have a fully stocked woodworking shop that I built in my garage. I do mostly repairs and mods for the guitar shop, but also some custom work from time to time for myself or my customers.

I'm loosely basing this board off the one I saw by Objector here: http://forum.fractalaudio.com/axe-f...who-has-coolest-pedalboard-them-all-i-do.html Kudos to him!

I'm going to build mine with some sides on it to protect my EP-1 pedals and their jacks and plugs from getting stepped on and broken. I'll be using 13-ply 3/4" birch plywood, screws, Titebond III glue, fuzzy Velcro for the bottom, black Taurus tolex for the outside and maybe some amp corners.

Here are the mockups with some pieces I have cut:








Getting it together after cutting to size:




Here it is with it just screwed together to test fit everything before glue:






The grand plan is to have the area in the back be covered by another piece while on a piano hinge. This way I can get to my cables and connections on the back of the MFC without removing it from the board. I also left enough room to store extra cables or whatever I need at reach. It's still a work in progress on the final design, but I've found out with woodworking experience that I work better by just going with an idea and let it snowball into something more as I work on it rather than write it all out on paper. I'll continue updating the thread as I progress through this project.
Click to expand...

this looks very good until now ! good work Man !,
I'm curious how it looks finished
 
It's been a while since I've had time to get into the woodshop. I spent some time in there last night. Unscrewed all the pieces to put Titebond III glue down and screwed it back together. It will be very solid once the glue cures. Here are the pedalboard picture updates...

I decided to permanently fix the top piece. I was originally planning on putting hinges on it so I could lift it up and make my connections or use the rear part as storage. I had two places I was trying the top piece as well: sunken down to be even with the rear piece or placed on top. I choose to place it on top as the MFC is tall enough to where it wouldn't have fit "under" the top panel. I wanted that freedom to move it forward and back on the board.











I've also decided to add an amp handle to the rear (like Objector did). It can be carried like a guitar case once the MFC and EXP are affixed to the board with the industrial strength Velcro I'll use.











Also, I seemed to have bought the incorrect EtherCON jack. This one is panel-mount (as I think most are per Neutrik) and not designed to go into a 3/4" piece of plywood. So, I may have to get creative to mount this jack on the side of the board or upgrade to the $30 EtherCON jack.



Covered the screw holes with filler and all other places needed to be filled so it won't show through once the Tolex is applied. In all of my experience building amps and cabinets, Tolex will show just about every inconsistency in the wood underneath. So as long as all holes and spaces are filled and sanded flat, it'll turn out well.


I plan on putting about a 1/4" round-over on the top of the board to give it a sleek look once the Tolex and metal corners are on. It'll have six to seven rubber amp feet on the underside that'll keep it 3/4" off the floor/stage. I forgot to take pictures of it with the MFC and EXPs sitting on it after installing the top piece. I'll do that soon and post to show the clearance. Even though I'll probably remove the feet on the MFC and EXPs, which will give a bit more clearance.

More updates to come soon...
 
Progress was made on the board yesterday. It's all finished. Below is are the pictures during the whole process.



1/4" roundover bit to ensure the corners will fit nicely:
















I spray painted the inside in the back, as I will not be applying Tolex or Velcro there:




Mesa-style Tolex covering:




All ready for applying the Tolex:
 
No pictures were taken during the Tolex application step as it's a VERY messy job and you have to work quickly before the glue keeps you from adjusting the Tolex.

As you can see on the side of the board here, there is glue residue. This comes off really easy with a damp rag after it fully dries:










Glue residue on the bottom, but it'll be covered by a Velcro sheet:






Moved it to my wood shop with better lighting, but also because I'm applying the fuzzy Velcro sheet using 3M Super Adhesive, which really stinks. This stuff works great to adhere anything to anything. I've used it on pedalboards in the past with no issues:










Adhesive residue at the front that will be cut off after it fully dries hard:
 
Now that the board is finished, it's on to applying my MFC and two Mission expression pedals. Removed the rubber feet on the bottom of the MFC and then re-applied the screws to hold it all together. The heads on these screws were short enough to where I could just apply the Velcro next to the screws and it would stick to the pedalboard just fine (believe me that Industrial Strength Velcro takes a LOT of work to remove). The Mission pedals are a different story. With my experience of applying Wah's to pedalboards with Velcro, there's no easy way without modification. I built two plates out of 1/4" hardboard (masonite) to the same size as the bottom metal plates and then sandwiched the metal plate in-between the pedal and the hardboard plate. I recessed the screw holes in the hard board so I could apply Velcro to the bottoms without the screws hitting the pedalboard. I know there are aftermarket products out there for this application, but I would rather build them.

Enjoy the pics!

Bottom of the MFC getting the Velcro treatment:


























 
Here's the finished board! I plan on taking some better pictures of it here soon for my website.















I can carry it around like a briefcase without the pedals falling off. Actually, it'll take a putty knife to get them off!










I have not yet cut a hole for my EtherCON cable. I just have it going out the front right of the board next to my red MFC. I'll continue researching the correct Neutrik jack for this application.

I'll be purchasing this case for it: iSeries 2918-10 Waterproof Utility Case | SKB Industrial / Military

Any questions about the build or the board, feel free to let me know! Thanks again to Objector for the inspiration behind this board!
 
I'm every bit as jealous of these skills as I am of the excessively good guitar playing to which I am constantly subjected on this forum ;)

Your finished product is just awesome!
 
Very clean and nice job! Looks very professional!
Is it heavy because of the wood?
Why don't you mount the Neutrik jack on a thin metal or plastic square plate and mount that plate on your board....
 
GibsonLesPaul said:
Very clean and nice job! Looks very professional!
Is it heavy because of the wood?
Why don't you mount the Neutrik jack on a thin metal or plastic square plate and mount that plate on your board....
Click to expand...

It weighs about 30 lbs fully loaded.

That's probably going to be my plan on the EtherCON jack. I'll get a metal D-style plate and mount it on the outside of the board.
 
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