Moral of the story ....... Irotlas, keep complaining about the amp sims! :lol
I never knew what the difference was either, still don't.
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I just realized it is set as "Sum L+R" in all my presets..
But I don't know if it was different in any previous firmware.. what does it do exactaly? I mean, should it be Left for some reason? Would it be beneficial?
Thanks for this post CK. You know, as much as I value these settings and this info, what I would value much more would be some insight into your process. I mean, the thing that still gives me trouble is knowing just how to approach a problem like this. My ears are good ( I think) and I build some decent tones, but for me the order of operations is kind of the thing I still struggle with after all these years. I start with stock (default) amp settings, and then I usually start with drive level, and then MV, and then B,M,T,P. But I'm curious as to how you approach things, and in what order.
After I start getting "close" to what I think I'm after, that's when it gets tricky. If something needs to change, I'm not always clear on if I need to move drive or MV, or maybe something else. It can end up getting a little random and experimental (Hmmm... I wonder what happens if I turn THIS up?)
What I wish for is to one day be able to know that if my sound is too this or that (grainy, flat, tubular, thin, muddy, whatever) that I should tweak a certain parameter. I wouldn't know to go into certain settings on the speaker page for example. I've read the guides, and understand many of the controls, but so many of them overlap or affect each other that knowing in what ORDER to make moves is kind of key. If anyone can ever get in depth on THAT subject, it would have loads of value.
The other area that I feel could really open up possibilities for people would be more discussion about setting tones in a mix. I can tweak a tone until I think it's great, and even do it at loud (gig) volume and like it, but then when bass, keys, drums, and vocals get added live, I find that the tone isn't what I thought it was. Usually I'm on the thin side, or it won't cut enough. (I know about FM, and I run my mids pretty high and follow all the theory. This isn't just and AXE thing really, it's more of an overall tone thing no matter the amp)
What is AXE specific though is that generally, due to the nature of how complicated it can be to tweak and dial in the AXE, there is little to no chance to fix issues during live rehearsal, so all I can do is take a quick note of what I don't like, and then try to go back at it the next day and try to take a stab at it. It has taken me weeks to dial in certain sounds (I get one shot a week at it basically). Now I'm on 18 and going through that again. I'd love to know more about how pro gigging musicians approach this. I'm a hobbyist, but more and more I find myself playing with pro's or pro level guys, and the demands on me are going up. The level of what I am doing (and with who) has taken a jump in the last year so I am really working to achieve stellar tone live. (I have no issues with recording tones... it's live tones in a mix that are far more challenging to me)
I'm going to create a video tutorial on tips to how to tweak your sounds. Hopefully it'll help the community.
This. And also only on Simul-class Boogies as well (ones that have Class A/Simul-Class switch on the back). The outer sockets are wired and biased differently to get more of a class A vibe and that's what allows for using EL34's. EL34's in the inner sockets can damage the amp. Mark IV's are all simulclass 90 watts, so it's OK. Mark V has a bias switch to allow EL34's as well. Older Mark II and III amps came in many configurations (60watt, 100watt, 90watt simulclass, 180watt! simulclass, EQ or no EQ, reverb or no reverb, etc., so not all can support EL34's.
Thanks!!!
I used your Izotope / tone match video back in the day. How many views did you end up with that one? It really opened the door for tone matching.
Hahaa thanks man. Yeah it's got almost 50.000 views at the moment. I'm probably not going to monetize my YouTube account yet for those numbers.
I'm editing the tutorial as I'm typing.
EDIT: But still I remember back in 2011 when there was no Kemper and no tone matching and I was all about match EQ and hyping it a lot. Most other forums didn't really care about that stuff. One in particular forum that is all about the Kemper nowadays actually went all in with the bashing. It's funny to me to see them being completely happy with their Kempers now that is actually using pretty much the same technology they were bashing a year or two before the Kemper. In here however the power of match EQ and tone matching has been clear all the time and it's been treated with the respect it deserves. We were talking about the tone match block way before KPA was out but I still think people consider the tone match block as FAS trying to do the Kemper thing.
Hey Clark,
thanks for this information. Great work! Ivé loaded Cab Pack 8 and used the settings in detail what you´ve posted. I set the gain a bit higher to get in crunch mode. Here´s what i´ve got:
I used my EBMM JP13 and this IR - CK USA Trad SM57-R121 02.
The bass is a lot for me. Isn´t it? Mr. Petrucci would say it´s flubby or not?
And a lot highs in the lead...
Cheers,
Alex
Hey Clark,
thanks for this information. Great work! Ivé loaded Cab Pack 8 and used the settings in detail what you´ve posted. I set the gain a bit higher to get in crunch mode. Here´s what i´ve got:
I used my EBMM JP13 and this IR - CK USA Trad SM57-R121 02.
The bass is a lot for me. Isn´t it? Mr. Petrucci would say it´s flubby or not?
And a lot highs in the lead...
Cheers,
Alex
Does anyone have this problem with the low resonance?
Does anyone have this problem with the low resonance?
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That's about what my guitar sounded like when I dialed my patch exactly as instructed in OP.