Cheap XLR cables

Bruce Sokolovic

Bruce Sokolovic

Fractal Fanatic
Do they fit worse than than higher quality stuff? Was having some bad connection issues last night that were fixed by kicking my pedalboard. Testing today shows it’s the loose XLR jacks. The cables connectors don’t make a good tight fit and have some wiggle room. Is there a preferred cable/connector that seals good and tight? anyone else run into this issue?
 
Generally speaking, with cables - any cables - IMO it's worth spending a bit more for better quality. Some even have lifetime replacement warranties. The better cables typically have better shielding; better connectors; are less likely to break, etc.
 
I'm done with cheap XLR cables. We bought some really cheap ones a few years ago and the cable could be pulled out of the connecter with very little effort. I prefer at least 22AWG conductors in the cable and Neutrik or Rean (Neutrik's budget brand) connectors. Switchcraft styles just don't seem to be as secure or consistent, I don't think I've seen top rated XLR cables with these connectors anymore. I make my own cables and have found the Neutrik type easier to work with as well. No set screw to mess around with.
 
I think that when new, the cheap cables work fine. After a bit of use/misuse, they become out of round and no longer fit into an xlr connector. A drummer that I’ve worked with has bought cheap cables from a friend that has a small music store. He’s had trouble connecting them to my QSC TouchMix mixer, saying they won’t fit. I told to not try and force it and mess up my mixer input connector. Used one of my cables and replaced the ends on his cable with real Neutrik connectors.
 
Bruce Sokolovic said:
Do they fit worse than than higher quality stuff? Was having some bad connection issues last night that were fixed by kicking my pedalboard.
Click to expand...
Ah. The universal fix.

Bruce Sokolovic said:
Testing today shows it’s the loose XLR jacks. The cables connectors don’t make a good tight fit and have some wiggle room. Is there a preferred cable/connector that seals good and tight? anyone else run into this issue?
Click to expand...
They can wear over time and, because they're sticking out of the unit, are subject to being abused.

I have a variety of cable brands, but I look for brands that use Neutrik connectors; They seem pretty robust. BTPA makes very good cables for a reasonable price.

And I always carry spares, because, the first time I took my FM3 out, a drunk singer stepped on one of the XLRs sticking out of the back of the unit. I couldn't tell if the XLR jack was broken in the FM3 or if it was the plug until I got home. Luckily the pins in the plug were bent, so I cut the connector off and soldered on another one, then, over time switched to a very short right-angle Switchcraft XLR for the back of the FM3, FC6, and FM9 to make it harder for them to be stepped on.
 
Lesson learned. A pal recommended mono price gold and another pal recommended pighog. Pighog are the more expensive of the 2. Anyone with any experience?
 
Bruce Sokolovic said:
Lesson learned. A pal recommended mono price gold and another pal recommended pighog. Pighog are the more expensive of the 2. Anyone with any experience?
Click to expand...
I don't have any monoprice, but I picked up half a dozen or so pighogs a few years back and have not had any troubles! That said, they have only been tasked with mild studio conditions but they seem to have a thicker layer of protection than most others I have (including Mogami)!! Neutrik connectors for the win!!!
 
Bruce Sokolovic said:
Lesson learned. A pal recommended mono price gold and another pal recommended pighog. Pighog are the more expensive of the 2. Anyone with any experience?
Click to expand...
I have a little experience with Monoprice and have a few friends that use their cables, among other things. No issues with anything from them that I've heard, one of the more consistent budget brands when it comes to good quality products. Another brand I've used without issues is Pro Co.
 
https://www.neutrik.com/en ...and for you cables https://www.belden.com/


Bruce Sokolovic said:
Do they fit worse than than higher quality stuff? Was having some bad connection issues last night that were fixed by kicking my pedalboard. Testing today shows it’s the loose XLR jacks. The cables connectors don’t make a good tight fit and have some wiggle room. Is there a preferred cable/connector that seals good and tight? anyone else run into this issue?
Click to expand...
 
If you're using a Temple Audio Duo 24 or Duo 34, it makes good sense to position the FM9 very close to the back edge (closest to you) of the Duo board. This will allow the front edge plenty of room for cable bends and feeding the cables through the access holes to the sides, where your modules are.

Although this doesn't protect the sides as much, your audience-facing edge is more protected from mishaps. And to be honest, there may come a time when it might be wise to build a bent metal plate shield that will protect my leading front edge. Although my experience with the FM9 for live venues is still waiting for me to discover, I can safely say that my open-mic gigs won't be the type that might subject my FM9 to potential damage.

Of course, nothing is absolute in this respect, but my open-mics are as heckuva lot tamer than @Greg Ferguson's. (No offense, Greg.)

My current project involves putting the USB and input jack connections to one side of the Duo 34 with a plate accessory that will house the plugs. That way, any direct connections (USB, input, XLR, power) can occur from the side of the board so as to avoid cable-fouling with onboard pedals or the FM9 itself.

FTR, my Temple Audio XLR > TRS cables were replaced with Monoprice the same length. My onboard tuner connects via Monoprice TS ¼". Likewise my EV-1: Monoprice Gold TRS. They're quality cables, have a lifetime warranty, and don't cost a lot of your hard-earned cash.
 
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At rehearsal and for gigging I use standard XLR cables with good price/quality ratio.
At home I use cheaper XLRs because they will not be moved frequently and thats OK for this use.
No signal issues (humming or cracks) with none of the cables so far.
 
Some cheap XLR's have pins that are hollow and are stamped to form the pin. Now that is cheap! I have seen those with crimp end and no solder used. Talk about risk of failure! Good XLR's will have solid pins. We use a ton of Neutrik connectors, all kinds. The have performed great for many many years.
 
I use Monster Prolink Performer 600 XLR cables. Although expensive, I believe it’s worth the extra cost, and I have never had any failures. They have a 2 year limited lifetime warranty.
Sweetwater currently has a 2 pack bundle deal on these cables. I use Monster Prolink Rock Instrument cables also (gold tips.) Of course YMMV. 😀🎸🇺🇸
 
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