Building my first Tele (Warmoth)

I'm not really a fan of micro fiber towels in general, personal opinion so take with a grain of salt. I prefer smooth foam applicator pads for applying rubbing compound and wiping off with a clean 100% cotton cloth. No matter what you use, the main thing is to keep dust or other bits of debris off of them. I like to dampen the foam pad before applying the compound and use a slightly damp cotton cloth for wiping off the compound. Then I'll use a dry cloth for the final wipe down.

https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/meguiars-foam-applicator-pads-4pack.html
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...svT3IbTBwSysNGfBkzAZ8iWiZM8XjVbhoC0rEQAvD_BwE
 
scottp said:
@JoKeR III say I let it dry for the 30 days. Should I do a swirl mark remover as a final polish?
Can you recommend a product?
Thank you all!
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Swirl mark remover should work fine if there are no imperfections and very light if any sanding. I've only used Meguiars finishing compounds (I have no affiliation with any finishing products). Turtle Wax and variant rubbing compounds are a bit too abrasive in my opinion. If you don't do any sanding, any of Meguiars low cut compounds or polishes like Swirl Remover or Ultra Pro Finishing Polish should be fine. If you do a final wet sand, you may want to start with the Solo Cut and Polish compound.

Most of Meguiars products have a "cut" gauge on the container, you're going to need the lowest cut possible. The product descriptions should give enough information to decide which you'll need. As with sandpaper, you'll progress from higher cut to lower cut compounds/polishes.

https://www.meguiars.com/profession...44]=1544&field_pro_paint_target_id[1545]=1545
 
Andy Eagle said:
View attachment 84638
This is really the way to go for a home build. They make a variety of sizes that should cover most bases. Trim it to size with fine (600grit) on a flat true surface and be carful to keep it all square and true.
If you are unsure about doing it this is a job for a trusted tech, at least as critical as fretwork.
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@Andy Eagle is there a flat sanding stone, or something you would recommend for me to use for sanding and fitting the nut?
 
I made most of my tools and for this I use an off cut of granite kitchen worktop that I glue a sheet of wet and dry abrasive too. I use 3M spray mount glue so it can be easily replaced . There are plenty of smooth, flat and true ceramic floor tiles that are perfect for this and you can usually pick up an odd one for very little. A piece of glass would also work great.
 
I just picked up a 12" x 12" piece of marble flooring, really smooth finish.
I put a straight edge on it, up to the light, looks pretty flat!

Okay my new Warmoth Tele neck arrived today. I have a few questions.
I'll be back soon...
 
Andy Eagle said:
View attachment 84638
This is really the way to go for a home build. They make a variety of sizes that should cover most bases. Trim it to size with fine (600grit) on a flat true surface and be carful to keep it all square and true.
If you are unsure about doing it this is a job for a trusted tech, at least as critical as fretwork.
Click to expand...


@Andy Eagle Can I get this nut with a flat bottom? The Warmoth nut slot has a flat bottom. (no radius) Also the width is 1 5/8".
 
scottp said:
Here is the Warmoth neck.
I want to apply something that will make the grain pop!
What can you recommend I use. Looking for a rub on product not wanting to spray it.
Thanks!


View attachment 85615View attachment 85616View attachment 85617
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I used the same rub-on poly on a neck and I really like the feel.

One trick I'm aware of for making the grain have more dimension is to stain it black and then sand it down. I have not tried it, though.
 
I'd spray it in satin clear but if you want a rub on you could just use the same as the body. You will only get a sealed satin finish without spraying though. Truoil is an option but I've honestly never used it. I've done wipe on nitro but I think spraying it is easier . Aerosol nitro clear is easy to get and one can will do it. With nitro you can always add more and the new melts in to the existing finish making rub throughs and any issues easy to deal with. The thing is many thin coats and if you get a run it can be sanded out when it is properly dry. Oh and remember "I will test on scrap,I will test on scrap, I will test on scrap." :tearsofjoy:
 
scottp said:
@unix-guy Can you tell me the process you used for the poly on neck?
Coats, sanding, buff polish?
Thanks.
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It was similar to the body but less coats - I think maybe 3-4, but it's been quite a while.

After sanding (which you may not need, I was cleaning up the old finish), clean and then apply a coat. Let dry then 0000 steel wool. Repeat.

I finished with steel wool to leave a better (for me) feel to the finish.

And I agree with Andy - that's a fine specimen!
 
7.12.2021 Update
With the rub on polyurethane finish finally fully cured, I did the final wet sand and buff tonight.
I intentionally took the pictures with the ceiling light above so you can get an idea of the gloss / shine to the finish.
Feels super smooth!

Tele 7.12.21.jpgTele back 7.21.21.jpg
 
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