Best way to convert PRS trem to down only

S

skolacki

Fractal Fanatic
Has anyone here converted a PRS floating trem to down only without changing trem height? I’ve looked and see some right angle brackets with adjustable bolts and lock nut. I don’t like these because screws will need to mount in the thin wood between the trem rout and pickup rout. I might try one of those anyhow, but throwing this out there in case there’s another solution. This is a molded SE trem. I have a U.S. built floater already but I want this guitar down only so I can change tunings. If all else fails I can just block it.
 
My used PRS CE-24 shipped to me like this:

C1549A1D-9721-4464-8E01-B944A56AE70E.jpeg

Unconventional? Yes, but I’ll never change it back to the way it’s supposed to be from the factory. This guitar is a ringer, resonates like no other, and I don’t want to lose that mojo.
 
unix-guy said:
If you loosen the term springs then the back of the trem will rest on the body.

I don't think it should affect the height...
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It will affect the angle. And the height but just a little. I still want it flat is what I should have said. My Strat is decked but it was already very close to the body. If I dropped it where it’s at the bar would be pointed up.
 
skolacki said:
It will affect the angle. And the height but just a little. I still want it flat is what I should have said. My Strat is decked but it was already very close to the body. If I dropped it where it’s at the bar would be pointed up.
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Just looked at my PRS and due to the “violin carve,” the bridge is indeed angled back.
 
ruso said:
Just looked at my PRS and due to the “violin carve,” the bridge is indeed angled back.
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Looks pretty flat to me. Probably best to have the front slightly above the deck to keep it aligned on the screws. I could drop mine but I’d have to raise the saddles quite a bit. Which is why I want a stop of some kind.
 
Andy Eagle said:
A custom made small block of wood between the block and the spring side of the cavity held in place with double sided tape.
It should be made to hold the baseplate parallel with the strings .
View attachment 139549
something like this.
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Lol thanks @Andy Eagle. I’ve been trying to figure a way to fasten a block so it wouldn’t drop out. Tape did not occur to me. Done deal I will do this when I get off shift.

Edit: tape to the wood or the trem block?
 
skolacki said:
Lol thanks @Andy Eagle. I’ve been trying to figure a way to fasten a block so it wouldn’t drop out. Tape did not occur to me. Done deal I will do this when I get off shift.

Edit: tape to the wood or the trem block?
Click to expand...
Use a good quality double sided tape and put it on the block. When it is in place add a little tension to the springs to resist a bend of a tone on the G. The tape works well because the block is mostly held by the spring tension. Also if you change your mind later no damage or holes.
 
There are several trem blockers on the market where you can go back and forth between dive only and floating. My Peavey HP USA Carve Top (post Eddie Wolfgang) has one factory installed.
 
I use a Tremol-no on my Gotoh 510 to switch between floating, dive only, and locked. Works great, and no mods/drilling required (though it does get mounted in place of the existing claw). I don’t know if it’s compatible with your particular PRS bridge, but their website may provide this info.
 
Rumbletone said:
I use a Tremol-no on my Gotoh 510 to switch between floating, dive only, and locked. Works great, and no mods/drilling required (though it does get mounted in place of the existing claw). I don’t know if it’s compatible with your particular PRS bridge, but their website may provide this info.
Click to expand...
I can't advise enough to not use a T'No , They suck tone and don't work well. They get loose and clunk or interfere with the zero point when floating. The down bend only stop can't be engaged properly without tightening the springs slightly but then you can't disengage it. Basically it is a POS. I take more off than anything else with them.
 
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