Anyone using Floyd Rose titanium insert blocks?

There’s a lot of snake oil in this stuff. FU-Tone is some of the worst. He even says his titanium is better than Floyd’s titanium. Just goofy. The only reason I’m using the titanium on a few of my guitars was because of corrosion. I’m not getting it on all of them though so there must a difference in some of the blocks I’ve received in my bridges. The non-fine tune bridges are the worst. I only found stainless on Amazon but I have no idea if they’re any account. I may buy them and see. They’re only $12 or $13 For 30 pieces. Out of 4 guitars I’ve installed titanium only one string has slipped out and it was an unwound G and that happened day one. I’ve been using them for maybe a year or two so I don’t know how long they’ll last. My oldest Floyd is from ‘86 and still has all the original parts with no issues.
This is all my experience too. A good stainless steel block is the answer.
 
I was at the Frankfurt Music Trade Show many, many years ago, where I met Hirasho Masuda. CEO of KTS TITANIUM.
We talked a lot about his titanium stuff and he gave me some samples.
Insert blocks, the big block for the Floyd and two set of saddles for Goto style tremolos.

I didn't believe it would make a tonal difference. But it does, and it makes a huge difference. I am very convinced of it.
These parts have now been in use for about 12 years.
The big Ti block makes it sound thin and plinky in most instances and the inserts are not good at holding a plain string.
A few of KTS Ti products work, for example strat and tele saddles have a tone that some like and the issues that you have with floyd parts are not in the mix with these. My problem is the clamping parts and knife edges in a floyd shouldn't be Ti it is just not up to the job.
 
The big Ti block makes it sound thin and plinky in most instances and the inserts are not good at holding a plain string.
A few of KTS Ti products work, for example strat and tele saddles have a tone that some like and the issues that you have with floyd parts are not in the mix with these. My problem is the clamping parts and knife edges in a floyd shouldn't be Ti it is just not up to the job.
Well, as I said. These parts are now in use for 12+ years. No problems at all. Is it a necessity? Not at all. 😀
 
I've purchased one of the TiSonix Floyd Rose trems. I was blown away to find out all the parts weren't titanium. Everything important is, but when you're paying almost $1,000, you'd think?????

Fortunately there were a few machinists out there who made replacement kits for the 21 steel pieces. (18) on the bridge & (3) at the nut.
So I tracked down the upgrades & added them on.

There's no snake oil here. It's hands down the best Floyd Rose experience I've ever had.
Noticeable difference in attack & acoustic volume of the instrument. Increased sustain & harmonics.

I wish these were more affordable & available for more players to try. It's something that has to be experienced to appreciate.

Cheers!

P.S. For any of you Les Paul or SG guys, the KTS titanium saddles for Nashville & ABR style bridges are fantastic.
It's the best upgrade you can give your Les Paul or SG's. Highly recommended. :)
 

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I've purchased one of the TiSonix Floyd Rose trems. I was blown away to find out all the parts weren't titanium. Everything important is, but when you're paying almost $1,000, you'd think?????

Fortunately there were a few machinists out there who made replacement kits for the 21 steel pieces. (18) on the bridge & (3) at the nut.
So I tracked down the upgrades & added them on.

There's no snake oil here. It's hands down the best Floyd Rose experience I've ever had.
Noticeable difference in attack & acoustic volume of the instrument. Increased sustain & harmonics.

I wish these were more affordable & available for more players to try. It's something that has to be experienced to appreciate.

Cheers!

P.S. For any of you Les Paul or SG guys, the KTS titanium saddles for Nashville & ABR style bridges are fantastic.
It's the best upgrade you can give your Les Paul or SG's. Highly recommended. :)
You are the only person I've come across who is remotely happy with the Ti floyd I have fitted and promptly removed a few of these because of performance and sound issues. The problem is Ti is not a suitable material for knife edges and blunts very quickly . Also the plain strings imprint in to the saddles and then start to pull out relatively easily. From a tone perspective the bridge sounds thin a lacking compared to the steel one. If you talk to an engineer with expertise in metallurgy they will laugh quite hard at the application suitability of Ti for a floyd design. Ti for passive saddles designs is far more understandable and can sound quite good on certain guitars.
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The reason it ships with steel bolts is because the Ti ones don't last.
 
I’ve had Floyd’s forever and always had some issue with their saddles. I finally ditched the Floyd for a Gotoh GE1996T and never looked back. The Gotoh is stable, easy string change and smoother than the Floyd.
 

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You are the only person I've come across who is remotely happy with the Ti floyd I have fitted and promptly removed a few of these because of performance and sound issues. The problem is Ti is not a suitable material for knife edges and blunts very quickly . Also the plain strings imprint in to the saddles and then start to pull out relatively easily. From a tone perspective the bridge sounds thin a lacking compared to the steel one. If you talk to an engineer with expertise in metallurgy they will laugh quite hard at the application suitability of Ti for a floyd design. Ti for passive saddles designs is far more understandable and can sound quite good on certain guitars.
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The reason it ships with steel bolts is because the Ti ones don't last.
I've read your opinion about the bridge & that's why I posted my own.
You seem to have the "my way or the highway" kind of vibe on many of your posts, so I'll stick w/ my personal experiences.

The bridge has been in use for around 8 years w/ zero problems. All the titanium parts I replaced are in tip top shape.
Never an issue w/ the plain strings pulling out. Allen heads & threads are all perfect.

You've admitted to paying around $2,000, hating them, but owning multiple......... Brilliant!

I'm glad that the two of us never have to be in the same car together for a long drive.

Cheers, Andy Eagle.
 
I've read your opinion about the bridge & that's why I posted my own.
You seem to have the "my way or the highway" kind of vibe on many of your posts, so I'll stick w/ my personal experiences.

The bridge has been in use for around 8 years w/ zero problems. All the titanium parts I replaced are in tip top shape.
Never an issue w/ the plain strings pulling out. Allen heads & threads are all perfect.

You've admitted to paying around $2,000, hating them, but owning multiple......... Brilliant!

I'm glad that the two of us never have to be in the same car together for a long drive.

Cheers, Andy Eagle.
I'm a full time repair tech 35ish years , my experience is based on thousands of instruments and many pro users experiences. All the prototypes were given to name players three of which reported the same back to me. None of them kept them on anything for more than one rehearsal. I didn't pay for one. It wins hands down the most snake oil Floyd and by far the worst sounding.
 
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I’ve had Floyd’s forever and always had some issue with their saddles. I finally ditched the Floyd for a Gotoh GE1996T and never looked back. The Gotoh is stable, easy string change and smoother than the Floyd.
Great bridge better sounding and works. Also is nearly 35years a tech I have never seen one of these fail from broken parts, the original 1988 to the present version.
 
Great bridge better sounding and works. Also is nearly 35years a tech I have never seen one of these fail from broken parts, the original 1988 to the present version.
What makes the Gotoh GT1996T a better trem - better materials used leads to better performance?
 
What makes the Gotoh GT1996T a better trem - better materials used leads to better performance?
Real Floyds have been inconsistent over the decades. The Gotoh has a better track record with builders. Less if any modifications needed to get them stable.
I've noticed the knife edges being inconsistent on the Floyds I've had over the years. My '86 Kramer Stagemaster still has the original Floyd Rose on it and it works perfectly. I've had 5 or 6 from that era on Kramers, Hamers, and Charvels. No issues.
Move to the 90's and even worse, the 2000's and Floyds lose consistency. Maybe it was a tooling tolerance issue but the Gotoh came out in that same era and solved the problems builders had with OFR's

FWIW, I recently replaced the OFR on my 2009 Jackson PC1 with a new Vintage Copper OFR and this one works great... Did I get lucky or have they improved? Dont know...
 
Occasional material sciences hack here,

Titanium just seems like a strange material choice… usually chosen for weight and temperature sensitive gear. It’s a bear on tools in manufacturing. I’ve cut quite a bit.

I haven’t looked to see what alloy of Ti they stay they’re using. Regardless…


Silly $$$ for what value?

Ti won’t form as durable hard knife edge like other materials (eg plain high-carbon steel, which is far cheaper). I imagine stainless steels alloys might work as well for a little bit more money. Some of them are super tough/hard … pick your poison.
 
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I’d rather have a stainless Floyd than titanium but you couldn’t charge a grand for one, so maybe that’s why we don’t see them. I remember seeing a stainless repro of the VH Bumblebee Floyd for around $400. I think it was on the Divebomb website but those were made in small numbers. I’d imagine if the OFR was made in large numbers it wouldn’t be much more than the regular ones.
 
Occasional material sciences hack here,

Titanium just seems like a strange material choice… usually chosen for weight and temperature sensitive gear. It’s a bear on tools in manufacturing. I’ve cut quite a bit.

I haven’t looked to see what alloy of Ti they stay they’re using. Regardless…


Silly $$$ for what value?

Ti won’t form as durable hard knife edge like other materials (eg plain high-carbon steel, which is far cheaper). I imagine stainless steels alloys might work as well for a little bit more money. Some of them are super tough/hard … pick your poison.
It was picked because it is seen publicly as a "premium " material IMO . Total BS reinforced by FU and other rubbish. The main problem is how the frequencies get filtered by the block. To describe it as thin sounding is as nice as I can manage. Oversize brass has a similar problem with changing tone and usually in a bad way. The only time I recommend trying one is if you have dead spots on the guitar because it is an easy way of adding mass and affecting the resonant frequency. For this purpose alone I would use one. The regular block is better at keeping things neutral but if you need to try more mass the Fat Cat brand steel block is far better sounding than oversize brass.
 
It was picked because it is seen publicly as a "premium " material IMO . Total BS reinforced by FU and other rubbish. The main problem is how the frequencies get filtered by the block. To describe it as thin sounding is as nice as I can manage. Oversize brass has a similar problem with changing tone and usually in a bad way. The only time I recommend trying one is if you have dead spots on the guitar because it is an easy way of adding mass and affecting the resonant frequency. For this purpose alone I would use one. The regular block is better at keeping things neutral but if you need to try more mass the Fat Cat brand steel block is far better sounding than oversize brass.
@Andy Eagle What do you think about the Callaham trem blocks?

I've considered their block and arm for my EJ strat, though some folks no doubt think that's non-vintage sacrilege.
 
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