AMP ADVANCED SETTINGS

I think this is yet another a fine example how people would react, when they're not able to tell what's going on with the advanced parameters.

Of corse....."use your ears" is a good answer, because that's what all is about. Beside that, there are some people who liked to know more about what happend, otherwise it would be much simpler to name those parameters "Advanced 1" / "Advanced 2" etc. etc. (I guess you get the point here...).

Is this your understanding of a friendly helping community, or should we just laugh about all little silly mistakes others will make when posting a serious, but wrong spelled question?

Well sorry for my bad english folks, but anyway....you may get my points....

1) Bright Cap. Cap is the short form for capacitor. A capacitor is a passive frequency dependent electronic component, that is used in guitar-amps for energy storage in power supplies or as part of the filter-circuit in the tonestack. Well, too much theory makes this way too nasty so let's talk simple here. The bright cap works as a frequency-dependent resistor, higher bright cab values (in Nanofarad) will increase the amount of signal that pass over the Gain or Pre-Amp-Volume potentiometer-values and lower the frequencies that will able to pass the cab. So if you play with maximum gain, the cab value will not affect your sound. Usually those cap-values are between 120pF and 470pF (picofarad) so they let pass just higher frequencies of your signal.....
but why? Well it's not a secret that lower volumes always sound darker and muddy, lifeless or whatever you'll call it. With the bright cab it's possible to have your chimier parts of your signal even at low volume....

2) Tonestack type

There are a few electronic basic circuits used as tonestacks in guitar amplifiers. In the beginning of guitar amplification there were just a few common designs (such as RCA-tonestack, Baxandall and a few others) that were modified in many ways during the history of guitar amplification to get varying signal affection of the amp tone controls. So, many amp models, different ways to go....with the axe you can choose between many tonestack concepts to build your dream amp. It's like lego..... :lol:

3) Tonestack frequency

Thats the center frequency of the tonestack....

4) Presence frequency

The center frequency of the presence control...

5) Power Tube Bias
vary the bias point of the power tubes from Class B to Class A operation.

6) B+ Capacitance

In- or Decrease the power supply AC filter caps, make the power supply more or less stable which can have an affect how the poweramp will react when driven hard.

more to come.....

Hey people, show your "userfriendly side" instead of making fun of others.....I know you can!
 
Thanks Mr.PC! You made a good point. Beind friendly on forums is pretty rare these days since it's much easier to write: "scr*w you n00b... if you don't hear it you're deaf... " etc. My theory is that it's a psychological reaction that makes some guys feel superiority. Ok, congrats... you know what the advanced parameters do but does it get you laid? :lol: (not meant to be an insult)

If you check my posts you'll notice that I try to help as many people as possible and I do it so if I need help someone can return the favor. :) I got my answers so thanks to the guys who helped me!
 
One thing i discovered is when your setting your "Thresh" hold on the noise reduction"Gate"...that 2nd knob in from the left side.."Res"..
if its turned up past 10 oclock it will kill your bright tone! Mushes out everything. Turn it down to around 8 o'clock, and your Axefx
comes alive! You have to watch out, when killing feedback, and noise. The Gate is VERY sensitive..! "-))

Oh, and THANKS MR PC! That really helped this barely 2 months Ultra owner understand more...bravo!
 
Mr.PC said:
I think this is yet another a fine example how people would react, when they're not able to tell what's going on with the advanced parameters.

Of corse....."use your ears" is a good answer, because that's what all is about. Beside that, there are some people who liked to know more about what happend, otherwise it would be much simpler to name those parameters "Advanced 1" / "Advanced 2" etc. etc. (I guess you get the point here...).
DAMN good point. DAMN DAMN good point. Matter of fact, next time someone says use your ears im quoting this. According to some of the logic on the boards, the WHOLE axe could just be Paramater 1, 2, 3.. ad infinitum!
~mx~
 
BRIGHT - Many amplifiers contain a “treble peaker” on the volume or drive control (see DRIVE below). Some amplifiers have a “bright switch” that can be used to engage or disengage the circuit. On many amps this switch is built in to the volume control as a “pull on” switch. On others the circuit is hard-wired.
The Axe-Fx amp types default to a particular state for the bright switch. If the amp had a hard-wired treble peaker the default state is on. If the amp had no circuit at all the default state is off. You many override this state by selecting the TREB control and pressing ENTER. This will toggle the state of the switch. The text “BRIGHT” will appear under the control when the bright circuit is active.
If the original amp did not have a treble peaker circuit, the bright switch uses circuit values most suited to an amp of that type. On some amps the effect may be subtle, on others, quite pronounced.
DRIVE - Sets the preamp drive. Higher settings equal more preamp distortion. On some amplifier types the drive control has a treble peaker (like the original). When the drive is turned down the low frequencies are attenuated more than the high. As the drive is turned up the low frequencies are increased more.
Many amplifiers have this feature and it can be heard as the drive is varied. You can use this to achieve the exact sound you’re looking for when a drive block feeds the amp. Adjust the drive control of the amp to achieve the desired amount of input treble peaking and then adjust the drive and the output level of the drive block to achieve the desired amount of distortion.
The Drive control has 40 dB of range. At a setting of ‘0’ the gain is 40 dB below the maximum gain.
BOOST - adds an additional 12db of gain for added preamp distortion. You many toggle this state by selecting the TYPE control and pressing ENTER. This will toggle the state of the switch. The text “BOOST” will appear under the control when the boost circuit is active.
BASS, MID, TREB - Tone controls. The tone controls in the Axe-Fx have up to twice the range of a typical amplifier. When a tone control is set to the 12:00 position (0.0 dB) it is equivalent to the simulated amplifiers control at 12:00. However, the boost cut range of the control is greater, +/- 12 dB, whereas a typical amplifier may have only +/- 6 dB or less. This allows you to get sounds, like heavily scooped mids or boosted treble, that normally wouldn't be possible.
Also, the tone controls do not interact like a typical amplifier. So when you turn the treble control the midrange and bass are not affected. This makes dialing in a certain tone easier and quicker than with a typical tone stack. This does not affect the voicing of the simulation in that the frequency response of the original circuit is always achieved however the exact setting of the controls will be somewhat different. In general the Axe-Fx tone controls are more sensitive than a typical amp and require less extreme settings to achieve the same sound. For example, if you set the treble to full on a British hi-gain amp, the corresponding setting on the Axe-Fx is about 5.0 dB. The advantage of this philosophy is ease of use plus more flexibility and wider range of tones. Adjust the tone controls slowly and listen carefully. A 1.0 dB adjustment can make a marked difference in the tone.
Some of the amps simulated do not have the full complement of tone controls. In those cases setting the control to 12:00 replicates the original. For example, some early amps did not have Mid controls. To capture the original faithfully simply set the control to ‘0’. Adjust the control as desired to achieve new and different tones.
Be careful in setting the tone controls as extreme settings along with high gain can cause pickup squealing or excessive noise.
PRES - Power amp presence control. This control boosts (or cuts) the upper frequencies from the power amp simulator by varying the negative feedback frequency response. Increasing this can help your sound “cut” through a heavy mix. This control actually has a greater range than a standard presence control. Values greater than zero behave like a typical tube amp, values less than zero actually reduce the high-frequency response even further.
If the Damping is set to zero this control is converted to a high-shelf equalizer at the output of the power amp. This allows you to control the high-frequency response of the power amp for types that don’t have any negative feedback.
HI CUT - This control sets the cutoff frequency of a lowpass filter at the very end of the preamp simulation. It defaults to a preset value for each amp type but can be overridden if desired. Experiment with this to fine tune your tone. For example, some of the higher gain types are characterized by fairly heavy filtering after the preamp stage but with this control you can reduce the amount of filtering and achieve a brighter tone. Conversely you gain reduce this value to achieve a darker or less brittle tone.
If using the Axe-Fx along with a separate tube power amp you may wish to experiment with this control to achieve the desired tone as the power amp may have it’s own high-frequency filtering.
DEPTH - This controls the effective output impedance of the power amp simulation. Higher values increase the impedance which increases the interaction of the virtual speaker with the power amp. Higher values give a fuller, looser sound, while low values can be used to achieve a more focused sound.
DEEP - Power amp deep control. This control boosts the low frequencies from the power amp simulation by varying the negative feedback frequency response. Defaults to an appropriate value when the amp type is selected but may be overridden by the user.
DAMP - This controls the amount of negative feedback, or damping, in the power amp simulation. Higher values give a tighter and brighter sound but can sound harsh at very high master volume levels. Lower values give a loose and gritty sound and feel. Each amp type defaults to a its own value but you may override the default value with this control. For example, a Top Boost amp has no negative feedback and as a result a unique tonal character. You can override the default damping and dial in some negative feedback to give the power amp a more “American” sound but still retain the preamp voicing.
SAG - This controls how dynamic the power amp simulation behaves. Higher settings simulate higher power supply impedance and thus more droop in the tube plate voltages which leads to a more compressed feel.
This control interacts with the Master Volume control in that at low Master Volume settings this control will have little effect as the power amp is not being pushed. As the power amp is pushed and draws more virtual current from its virtual power supply the Sag control will have more effect.
NOTE: Turning this control fully CCW defeats the power amp simulation. If you are using the Axe-Fx into an external tube power amp and cabinet you may want to set this control to zero to defeat the power amp simulation.



MSTR VOL - This, the Master Volume, is a very important control. It determines the drive to the power amp simulator. A higher setting increases the distortion contributed by the power amp simulator. As the Master is turned up the entire character of the amp will change, just like the real thing. The tone controls will have less influence on the sound, and the sound will “bloom” more and be more touch sensitive.
By carefully balancing Drive and Master Volume you can achieve the tone you desire. Experiment with the two to achieve your ultimate tone. Sometimes the tone you desire may be mostly preamp based and as such turn the Drive up and the Master down. Other times the tone may be mostly from the power amp so crank the Master up and back off the Drive. Amps with negative feedback (damping greater than zero) tend to have a crunchier power amp distortion and this can even get raspy if driven too hard. This is due to the negative feedback attempting to linearize the power amp. The resulting transfer function is harsher at clipping than an amp with little or no feedback. You can experiment with the damping control and master volume to achieve the desired power amp distortion timbre.
If the Master Volume is set very high best results are usually achieved by reducing the drive control. Try setting the Master around 9 or so and then slowly bringing the drive up until the desired tone is achieved. At high Master settings less drive is usually required, especially for high-gain types.
Amp types that are designed for preamp distortion typically sound better with lower values of this control and too high of a value can make the tone muddy or excessively noisy. This includes the USA Lead types, SOLO 100 and others. Lower gain amps such as Plexi, Brownface, and others can benefit from higher settings as this can reduce the harshness of the amp.
If the power amp simulation is off (Sag at zero) this control then becomes a simple level control. This control has 40 dB of range. A setting of ‘5’ is therefore 20 dB less than maximum.
LOWCUT FREQ - This control allows you to reduce the amount of low frequency content at the input to the amp simulator. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired. A higher value will "tighten" up the amp, since what a user calls "flub" is low frequency distortion.
Bright Cap - This control sets the value of the “bright cap” across the virtual drive control. Increasing this will make the preamp brighter and vice-versa. The Bright Switch must be engaged for the effect to be audible.
TONESTACK TYPE- This control allows you to select the type of tone stack used in the simulation. The tone stack will default to either ACTIVE or PASSIVE depending upon the DEFAULT TONESTK parameter in the GLOBAL menu. When set to ACTIVE, the tone stack is a semi-parametric EQ with +/- 12 dB of range for each control. When set to PASSIVE, the tone stack is an exact digital recreation of the classic tone stack used in the amplifier being simulated. You can also choose from a wide selection of other tone stacks if desired. Fifteen classic passive tone stacks are available to choose from. So you can dial up a Plexi model and change the tone stack to a Blackface or Top Boost, etc yielding hybrid amp sounds.
WARMTH-This controls the power tube and transformer interaction. Set to zero to deactivate. Increasing this value increases the apparent warmth and depth of the tone, especially as the power amp is driven harder. This parameter defaults to a non-zero value whenever a new amp type is chosen.
THUMP- This models the output transformer interaction with the speaker impedance. The amount of thump is adjustable from 0 – 10. Value is set to a default value when amp type is selected. When using a tube power amp you may want to set this to zero as the tube power amp will produce it’s own thump. To facilitate this the global power amp bypass has an additional mode that deactivates the thump modeling.
TONE FREQ - This control allows you to alter the center frequency of the tone controls. You can use this to change the character of the preamp. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired.
XFRMR MATCH - This controls the effective output impedance of the power amp simulation. Higher values increase the impedance which increases the interaction of the virtual speaker with the power amp. Higher values give a fuller, looser sound, while low values can be used to achieve a more focused sound.
XFORMER LF - This control allows you to alter the lower cutoff frequency of the “output transformer”. Increase this value to simulate an old, under-designed transformer as was common in some vintage amps. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired.
XFORMER HF - This control allows you to alter the upper cutoff frequency of the “output transformer”. Decrease this value to simulate narrow bandwidth transformers as were common in some vintage amps. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired.
TONE LOCATION - This control allows you to alter the location of the tone stack. “PRE” places the tone stack at the input to the amp, “POST” places the stack between the preamp and power amp. "END" places the tonestack after the power amp simulation. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired.
PWR TUBE BIAS - This parameter can be used to fine-tune the virtual power tubes’ bias points. A value of zero corresponds to full Class B operation. A value of one corresponds to full Class A operation. Values in between are therefore Class AB. For traditional Class AB power amps (i.e. Marshall, Fender, etc.) a value of 0.35 is considered the “optimum” bias point. For traditional Class A amps, (which aren’t really true Class A, i.e. Vox, Matchless, etc.) a setting of 0.75 corresponds to the typical bias value these amps are run at. Lower values of bias increase the amount of crossover distortion, add “hair” to the sound and make the power amp more “explosive” since the transfer function slope increases with input level. Higher values of bias yield less distortion, “rounder” sound, more linear response and a more compressed feel. At high Master Volume settings the effect of bias may be subtle. As the Master Volume is turned down the audible effect is more pronounced. Increasing the Damping increases the linearity of the power amp and also serves to reduce the audible effect of the bias control.
PRESENCE FREQ - This control allows you to alter the center frequency of the presence control. This parameter defaults to a value for each type but can be overridden if desired.
B+ CAPACITANCE - This control allows you to alter the amount of filtering capacitance on the power amp virtual power supply. Higher values will make the response stiffer and “faster”. Lower values will give a looser feel. Use along with the SAG control to fine-tune the response.
SPKR RES FREQ - This control allows adjustment of the virtual speaker impedance's resonance frequency. It defaults to the value of the cabinet that would typically be paired with the TYPE, but can be adjusted to retune the response. This control has the most effect when the Depth controls is fairly high (as depth controls the amp output impedance).
STABILIZER - Under certain extreme settings of DEPTH and DAMP the simulation may go unstable. This would happen in a real amplifier as well. The STABILIZER switch alters the “grid capacitor” values to ensure stability. (Alternatively you can reduce the XFORMER LF value. This will usually remove any instability, although occasionally it won't. In those cases you can use the STABILIZER.)
LEVEL, PAN, BYP MODE - These are the standard output mixer controls


http://axefxwiki.guitarlogic.org/index. ... ameters_21
 
Mike Snider said:
STABILIZER - Under certain extreme settings of DEPTH and DAMP the simulation may go unstable. This would happen in a real amplifier as well. The STABILIZER switch alters the “grid capacitor” values to ensure stability. (Alternatively you can reduce the XFORMER LF value. This will usually remove any instability, although occasionally it won't. In those cases you can use the STABILIZER.)

I've wondered about this. Is there any reason that the Stabilizer should ever be turned off?
 
acwild said:
Mike Snider said:
STABILIZER - Under certain extreme settings of DEPTH and DAMP the simulation may go unstable. This would happen in a real amplifier as well. The STABILIZER switch alters the “grid capacitor” values to ensure stability. (Alternatively you can reduce the XFORMER LF value. This will usually remove any instability, although occasionally it won't. In those cases you can use the STABILIZER.)

I've wondered about this. Is there any reason that the Stabilizer should ever be turned off?

I've never needed to utilize the stabilizer other than the default setting.
 
Mike Snider said:
http://axefxwiki.guitarlogic.org/index.php?title=Axe-Fx_Wiki_Manual#Parameters_21

And -not to be an a**, but with the info from the manual in hand- i recommend to anyone trying to figure out what the parameters do to sit down in front of the axefx-tweak- and listen. We can learn what the tools are, but it's how they connect sonically which makes them most useful.

Piggybacking on what Mike said: How can you learn what any control does if you don't TRAIN your ears by messing with it and listening to the results?

When I write "use your ears' what I am saying is this: "read the manual. Alter the control. Teach yourself what it does to the sound."

If you can't hear it, then don't mess with it any more. Many of these things are interdependent on reacting with other controls. For instance, if you alter the presence control frequency, but don't then alter the presence level, you won't hear anything change.
 
I guess you're both right. I never had a manual since I bought this one used and there was no manual. :( I know it's downloadable but the info I was asking for was mainly about what people's opinions were on these settings and how they use them because I trust that kind of knowledge much more.

F.ex. What do you guys think is better? Someone's learning to play guitar: 1) He starts playing guitar and reads a manual on how to play. 2) A professional guitarist gives him tips on what to do.

My opinion: experience/experimental use can rarely be found in a manual. F.ex. someone wrote that he likes to crank the bias because it makes the amp sound unrealisticly good... a real amp would explode or something like that. I would never have tried that since all I read in the manual is science talk about what kind of bias certain amps got. So this was the info I was after. ;) Thanks for the replies guys!
 
Clark Kent said:
F.ex. What do you guys think is better? Someone's learning to play guitar: 1) He starts playing guitar and reads a manual on how to play. 2) A professional guitarist gives him tips on what to do.
Both ;) The tips may not always be correct or work for you.
 
VegaBaby said:
Clark Kent said:
F.ex. What do you guys think is better? Someone's learning to play guitar: 1) He starts playing guitar and reads a manual on how to play. 2) A professional guitarist gives him tips on what to do.
Both ;) The tips may not always be correct or work for you.

+1
 
i seldom used the advanced page cause i´m happy with my setup

my question:

Do you think changes in these parameters will be noticed
using a tube power amp and real cabs - (i have poweramp ON, cabs OFF)
 
dongrosh said:
i seldom used the advanced page cause i´m happy with my setup

my question:

Do you think changes in these parameters will be noticed
using a tube power amp and real cabs - (i have poweramp ON, cabs OFF)


They do.....for sure, the often so called simulated interaction between output-transformer and speaker is just a generic simulation and had nothing to do if there will be a following Cab-Block or not.

We can learn what the tools are, but it's how they connect sonically which makes them most useful.

Well, I know those tools pretty well from daily business (I run distribution service center for ENGL amplification in switzerland)

Cheers
Paco
 
Paco, then maybe YOU can provide Cliff with accurate schematics of the ENGL amps...? ;-)

I'm not a big fan of them though.
 
merlin17 said:
Paco, then maybe YOU can provide Cliff with accurate schematics of the ENGL amps...? ;-)

I'm not a big fan of them though.

I suspect if Paco did that he'd get fired. So I'd speculate that he would not do so. :D
 
@ Scott: Nah.....beside that there are 25 other brands ( for some I had to sign NDAs) :lol:

The problem is, I get the same schematics as everyone else on the web, sometimes I need to do a little "reversed engineering" if there are bigger problems or strange behaviors of the circuit (well that happens just two times in the last 30 months....usual stuff were issues with bad contacts, tubes & the usual passive parts such as caps, pots & resistors (as everyone else)...no big deal so far. Some people mocking about the builder quality, but to be honest....apart from the up-side-down construction, which makes it a bit nasty sometimes, those a really great amps, solid builder quality, superb sonic quality....... I like 'em!

btw: Anyone remember the old ENGL E101 and E201 amps? :lol:
 
Not especially fond of the big ENGL heads, but that little Sovereign is a 1x12 combo "beast" with all the features you could wish for.
My fellow guitar player has one and it rocks.
 
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