Adding a Tuner Stompbox to FM9 Rig

I’m going to say yes. It’s the same ADC as on the FX3. Look at the tuner display in Axe-Edit with the current firmware and it’s measuring in tenths of a cent, the same accuracy as Peterson and TC tuners.

...Peterson has… what? I have several Peterson Strobo-Clip HD as backups in my gig bags, and a StroboPLUS HDC that is on my desk for convenience when I’m adjusting guitars, but my primary tuners are TC Polytune-clips on the guitars and the tuner built into the modeler, and, if I was using my regular board, I’d be using a TC Polytune-Stomp. And the ONLY reasons I’d use them is because of the Polytune feature.

I’ve intonated my guitars using all of them at different times and they’ve all worked equally well.
It's the StroboStomp HD. Accurate to ± 0.1 cents. When I checked both the Axe III and FM9 manuals, there was no mention of how accurate either were. I've got FM9-Edit, not Axe III-Edit. Will need to take your word for this, but neither manuals mention tuning accuracy.
...I hear and see no difference between it or the FM's tuner with respect to accuracy. I will say the the Peterson's visual reaction appears have a smoother response than that of the FM but the FM's tuner display is far easier to see when compared to that tuner! I suspect that FAS could do a firmware update to offer up different settings to change the display appearance which would be a nice add!

I don't use any offsets or sweetened tunings so I can't really say anything to that effect. That said I can't imagine that it would be any different given FAS's reputation with respect to modeling accuracy to let something like tuning to not be just as accurate.
That's why my choice was the StroboStomp...a smoother strobe response that doesn't jump back and forth too quickly compared to the FM9 tuner. That, and the library of sweetened tuning presets one can recall to the top of the preset list and save as your preferred preset.

My hope is to use the StroboStomp in conjunction with the FM9 tuner when both acoustic and electric guitars might be used for a brief setlist of music. When the StroboStomp might be employed for the James Taylor preset, and my electric might require the FM9's offsets.

Either that, or to be able to switch out the electric for acoustic and play thru a FM9's acoustic preset much like one might play direct thru a PA. It would be good practice to be prepared for both scenarios, and not need to switch on-the-fly the FM9's offsets mid-gig, which might be a waste of time and energy.

FTR, I kind of like Peterson's motto for their product..."Either You're In Tune...Or You're Not."
 
Last edited:
It's the StroboStomp HD. Accurate to ± 0.1 cents. When I checked both the Axe III and FM9 manuals, there was no mention of how accurate either were. I've got FM9-Edit, not Axe III-Edit. Will need to take your word for this, but either manuals don't mention tuning accuracy.
All the mentioned Peterson tuners have that same accuracy, as do the TC tuners. I was very careful to pick tuners that do as it’s kinda important when intonating a guitar.

While Fractal doesn’t specifically state their tuner accuracy, it’s pretty easy to test whether their accuracy is in the same range by tuning with the built-in strobe tuner while one of the others is in-line and see if they match. Or we can take the tuning fork output of the StroboPLUS HD and run that into the input of the modeler and see whether it matches.

Cliff has some interesting and useful tips in Tuner:
"The strobe tuner and bar tuner use different algorithms. The bar tuner measures the average period of the waveform. The strobe tuner works like, well, a strobe tuner. It "demodulates" the signal with a quadrature oscillator. This effectively measures the fundamental ONLY. The frequency of the fundamental will not necessarily match that of the overall waveform. So it's like having two tuners, a traditional tuner and a strobe tuner running simultaneously and, just as with separate physical tuners, the results may not necessarily be the same. A guitar string is not perfect. The resonances of the overtones aren't always perfect integer multiples of the fundamental. This is exacerbated by the pickups which pull on the strings and cause the overtones to be off (in extreme cases causing the dreaded "stratitis"). Which measurement is correct? That's up to you decide. Some people prefer the sound of the strings being tuned to the frequency of the overall waveform. Others prefer the results of a strobe tuner." [1]
"The needle is a correlation tuner. The strobe tuner downconverts the signal to baseband and then displays the I/Q vectors as a strobe tuner simulation. Zero-crossing tuners are inaccurate. If your strings are old the needle tuner will differ from the strobe tuner because the strobe tuner only displays the fundamental. When your strings get old the harmonics become out-of-tune with the fundamental." [2]
"The needle tuner is not designed to tune that high. It's designed to tune open strings. Use the strobe tuner for intonation." [3]

On my FM9 the strobe display is quite steady. If it's having problems because of EMI or old strings, I can switch to the neck pickup, and if that's not enough I'll roll off the tone-control to get rid of upper harmonics.
 
Last edited:
All the mentioned Peterson tuners have that same accuracy, as do the TC tuners. I was very careful to pick tuners that do as it’s kinda important when intonating a guitar.

While Fractal doesn’t specifically state their tuner accuracy, it’s pretty easy to test whether their accuracy is in the same range by tuning with the built-in strobe tuner while one of the others is in-line and see if they match. Or we can take the tuning fork output of the StroboPLUS HD and run that into the input of the modeler and see whether it matches.

On my FM9 the strobe display is quite steady. If it's having problems because of EMI or old strings, I can switch to the neck pickup, and if that's not enough I'll roll off the tone-control to get rid of upper harmonics.
Previously, my choice was a Korg Pitchblack tuner, and it was pretty good, but didn't have the pin-point accuracy of the 0.1 cent tuning ability.
So for the time, like others who prefer more accurate tuning, I used the FM9's tuner for tuning my guitars, but the Korg for intonating or changing strings.

And this may be the issue with my guitars...because I usually don't practice each week (unthinkable!) the strings may sit for a time and absorb oils from cooking or just age and tarnish from being on display. If the strings age, well, they're not being used, but they will still age and lose some of that "new string" resonance or harmonics.

I guess that the answer is you gotta keep putting strings on guitars if you want something to work better with your tuner. I think that if you give your guitars a chance with new strings, they'll put out a better signal that your tuner can read.

It's like when your kid asks for his allowance; you give him a job to do, like putting out the recycle bin, and both of you are happier because the kid did what he was asked and the kid receives his allowance. Not because you tell the kid, I got your allowance 'right here,' but because the kid needed the money, but he needed to earn it.

My point is, if you're going to give your guitars a new set of strings, it makes sense that they're expected to do the job they're supposed to before you can give them something new again. Rewarding good behavior instead of bribing bad behavior.

But since we're neither fathers/kids in this situation, here's a tip I learned from Bryan Ewald of PRS: Bryan said that if you switch to your neck pickup, turn your tone knob to 7 and your volume knob to 10, you'll effectively reduce too many overtones from interfering with proper tuning. You can intonate your guitar with these settings, but it's wise to use a quality stomp box or rackmount tuner that can provide a better read than a clip-on tuner. Since then, I can't say that I've been successful, but it helps do away with burning thru strings too often.
 
All tuners are "accurate". I've discovered that it's the sensitivity that tends to make a 'better' tuner seem to be more accurate. I found that less sensitive tuners take longer to tune with but any that I've used have been 'accurate'.

As far as tuner recommendations, I have a Sonic Research Turbo Tuner, the ST-300 model, and have never looked back. I used the Strobo Stomp for a few years but wanted something smaller and more of a traditional strobe tuner. The Turbo Tuner has 6 different presets that you can edit for drop tunings, alternate tunings or quirky guitars. I found the Peterson 'sweetened' tuning settings online an applied them to one of the TT presets. It's a great little tuner.

There are personal preferences and reasons for using an external tuner rather than the built in tuner. I don't understand why it's automatically assumed that it's because we don't like the built in tuner. It is not a knock against the FAS tuner, it's 100% personal preference. Your choice or preference isn't going to influence me. I've found what works for me, you use what works for you.
 
I don't think anyone is attacking any of the other tuners, just offering our take on the built-in tuner if OP didn't consider using it alone. It hits that 1% accuracy just fine.
 
I was on the phone earlier today to Sweetwater regards the StroboStomp HD for its sweetened tunings abilities. I'd been looking for a tuner that offers alternate or sweetened tunings (specifically James Taylor's modified offset tuning). The StroboStomp offers a wide range of these that can be stored as presets. Most all other brand names don't offer this.

Will be adding one effects pedal prior to my FM9. (That's all the room I've got on my Duo 34 board). Wondering if it would be wise to stay with a 9V battery, or try wiring the board for electrical outlet/Temple Audio EIC jack? I've got one unused small plate opening to the right where my XLR modules connect...

DISCLAIMER: Not affiliated with Sweetwater/Peterson Tuners.
You can change to tuning offsets in the fm9 tuner block to create sweetened tunings.
 
The precision as stated is there. Upon reading the manual you can turn the offsets on and off…
 
You can change to tuning offsets in the fm9 tuner block to create sweetened tunings.
Yes, thank you. When you view Cooper Carter's video on YT G66, he walks you through sweetened tunings. I've posted a separate thread regards this you can view:

https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/more-natural-sounding-tunings-with-offsets.180861/

I've adjusted some of CC's settings to my ear (IIRC, the D string needed a slight adjustment with .009 gauge strings.) for both my PRS McC and SE HBII Piezo. The StroboStomp is more likely to be used for my acoustic with James Taylor offsets that the StroboStomp has programmed into it.
 
Last edited:
All tuners are "accurate". I've discovered that it's the sensitivity that tends to make a 'better' tuner seem to be more accurate. I found that less sensitive tuners take longer to tune with but any that I've used have been 'accurate'.

As far as tuner recommendations, I have a Sonic Research Turbo Tuner, the ST-300 model, and have never looked back. I used the Strobo Stomp for a few years but wanted something smaller and more of a traditional strobe tuner. The Turbo Tuner has 6 different presets that you can edit for drop tunings, alternate tunings or quirky guitars. I found the Peterson 'sweetened' tuning settings online an applied them to one of the TT presets. It's a great little tuner.

There are personal preferences and reasons for using an external tuner rather than the built in tuner. I don't understand why it's automatically assumed that it's because we don't like the built in tuner. It is not a knock against the FAS tuner, it's 100% personal preference. Your choice or preference isn't going to influence me. I've found what works for me, you use what works for you.
Thanks for that info. You were saying that the ST-300 has sweetened tunings as well? Can you edit a preset to include tuning offsets, say by ±12 cents? If so, this might be more useful if the ST-300 is also a strobe tuner.

I just used the James Taylor YT video that speaks about his tuning offsets for sweetened tunings. Will file this away for future reference; thanks for this!
 
Thanks for that info. You were saying that the ST-300 has sweetened tunings as well? Can you edit a preset to include tuning offsets, say by ±12 cents? If so, this might be more useful if the ST-300 is also a strobe tuner.

I just used the James Taylor YT video that speaks about his tuning offsets for sweetened tunings. Will file this away for future reference; thanks for this!
The ST-300 is a strobe tuner and does not come with a sweetened tuning preset.

From the manual:

"The ST-300 has six different tuning settings. The setting currently selected is indicated by the row of six LEDs at the bottom of the display panel. The first setting, labeled "CHRM" is always chromatic, equal temperament.

All of the remaining 5 tunings can be programmed by the user to be an open tuning with up to 9 strings, or set to chromatic mode. Each note in a tuning, be it an open tuning or chromatic mode, may be offset by ±50 cents in .1 cent increments."


I was mistaken that all 6 presets could be edited, preset 1 is static, 2-6 can be programmed.
 
The ST-300 is a strobe tuner and does not come with a sweetened tuning preset.

From the manual:

"The ST-300 has six different tuning settings. The setting currently selected is indicated by the row of six LEDs at the bottom of the display panel. The first setting, labeled "CHRM" is always chromatic, equal temperament.

All of the remaining 5 tunings can be programmed by the user to be an open tuning with up to 9 strings, or set to chromatic mode. Each note in a tuning, be it an open tuning or chromatic mode, may be offset by ±50 cents in .1 cent increments."


I was mistaken that all 6 presets could be edited, preset 1 is static, 2-6 can be programmed.
So effectively, one could create a preset with offset tuning and store that in one of the Cstm 4 - 6 presets.
 
I love the FM9 tuner. And its easier to see than a tu3 or really any of the physical pedals
 
I was on the phone earlier today to Sweetwater regards the StroboStomp HD for its sweetened tunings abilities. I'd been looking for a tuner that offers alternate or sweetened tunings (specifically James Taylor's modified offset tuning). The StroboStomp offers a wide range of these that can be stored as presets. Most all other brand names don't offer this.

Will be adding one effects pedal prior to my FM9. (That's all the room I've got on my Duo 34 board). Wondering if it would be wise to stay with a 9V battery, or try wiring the board for electrical outlet/Temple Audio EIC jack? I've got one unused small plate opening to the right where my XLR modules connect...

DISCLAIMER: Not affiliated with Sweetwater/Peterson Tuners.
You can do the sweetend tunings on the FM.
Cooper carter made a video about it.

Also I have the peterson HD, people ask if I’m tuned to 431 or whatever all the time. Must be the “sweetened”
 
You can do the sweetend tunings on the FM.
Cooper carter made a video about it.

Also I have the peterson HD, people ask if I’m tuned to 431 or whatever all the time. Must be the “sweetened”
Thanks. I've already got the FM9 tunings set for my PRS McC and HBII Piezo. The issue is that my PRS acoustic requires a separate set of sweetened tunings (per James Taylor's YT video offsets) and that the FM9 only allows one global offset tuning. I don't use a modified A440 tuning at all, simply because I don't wish change a reference pitch. That stays the same.

Here are my current FM9 tuning offsets for my McC and HBII Piezo.

Q4cgGVK.png


The StroboStomp will provide the James Taylor offsets per this video. It is necessary to note that you cannot have more than one global offer tuning with the FM9. Hence, the reason for the StroboStomp, which has a library of 106 sweetened tunings available that you can pull up and store as presets with the StroboStomp. It's not entirely a "kitchen sink" answer, but it's darn close.

JT uses these offsets (cents), which cannot be stored at the same time my above offsets are utilized.

(Low) E6: -12 A5: -10 D4: -8 G3: -4 B2: -6 E1: -3

 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom