Wish Accurate Knob Dial Position

I have to go with Cliff’s logic on this one. The manufacturer might specify the range when they make their prototype but over the course of the production run the pots themselves might drift as they get different batches, causing the pots and knobs to be in different positions from unit to unit to get the same sound, even though they’re supposed to be identical. We correct that drift by turning the knobs until the units sound the same (and then pop off the knobs and reattach them if we’re so inclined to fix the cosmetic problem) but the fix was turning the knobs so the sound matched.

I don’t care whether the knob positions on the modeler match the reference amp or my amp either. Because of the production drift I know it’s unlikely they’d all be the same, but they’d be close enough and with a bit of fiddling I get what I like. Besides, if I was to want to die on this particular hill, then my banner would be make everything match, positions and ranges, colors and shapes of the panel and knobs and switches, entirely skeuomorphic. But it wouldn’t make the unit sound or behave any better and would burn a lot of development dollars which I’d rather see spent on other things.
those pot variations even out over a production run though so you still end up with a sense of what each portion of a knob should do.

The fractal knobs skew all of that so it’s less like any of the production amps. I can’t really see any benefit to not adjusting it slightly and having everything that corresponds to a real control instantly feel more familiar
 
Thought I saw this explained somewhere but honestly never noticed the difference. I do notice the general clock position on the knobs. They’re off .3 so not a big difference. Just adjust to what sounds best. It’s doubtful this is something that will get changed anyhow. Others peoples amp settings are like other peoples presets. They sound great in a video but rarely sound good on my setup. They get me in the ballpark and that’s about it.
 
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Normal is just a setting on the dryer....
 
Asking for a friend, but what if someone sets stuff at a zero or 180 degrees. It gets fixed in the next release to be more in line with physical amp knob positions. And now all my, I mean my friends, presets look wonky…
 
This just has to be.

If the rest makes sense (authenticity), how can this not make sense? Now that I've seen it, I can't un-see it. Authenticity or Anarchy? I must be getting old, but...

Authentic visual tapers, please... usual "fine" modifiers obviously take care of the rest.
 
I think consistent ways of finding correspondence between IRL amps and virtual ones are super useful, but the idea of time being spent making each one try to match dials rubs me the wrong way. Kind of goes against the utility of the expanded tool set we're offered with the ideal page, and the corner cases (again, don't get me started on the TriAxis, which used jumps in the ranges for specific purposes) seem to preclude this being anything but a tail chase. Do we assume the developers have all the amps on hand, at all times to visually match to the audible?

Maybe if the authentic page is just a view on the ideal, then cleverness might seem more or less containable without promises, but I've no idea how that's handled, so I won't further speculate.
 
I think consistent ways of finding correspondence between IRL amps and virtual ones are super useful, but the idea of time being spent making each one try to match dials rubs me the wrong way. Kind of goes against the utility of the expanded tool set we're offered with the ideal page, and the corner cases (again, don't get me started on the TriAxis, which used jumps in the ranges for specific purposes) seem to preclude this being anything but a tail chase. Do we assume the developers have all the amps on hand, at all times to visually match to the audible?

Maybe if the authentic page is just a view on the ideal, then cleverness might seem more or less containable without promises, but I've no idea how that's handled, so I won't further speculate.
Even though I want 9 o clock and 3 o clock to be consistent, I agree with this.

We don't need to make stuff that goes to 11 or 12 "accurate", because honestly who cares lol.

But I'd wager 90-95% of amp knobs have 9 o clock and 3 o clock as 2 and 8, respectively, with 11 ticks total (one for 0)
 
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