Wish Accurate Knob Dial Position

Is this different from the hardware? In other words, only an Axe-Edit thing?

I don't set knobs based on visual indicators so I never really looked or compared...
 
Is there a specific amp or amps that you're talking about? Posting stock photos is not a great help in getting your point across.

I think what's more important is that you can get the same tones out of a model as you can the corresponding amp. Can you do that? If so, I wouldn't worry about the number on the knob so much. To paraphrase Cooper Carter, use your ears, not your eyes.
 
For me this has the same importance as pot tapers.
As said, you still get all the same sounds from wonky tapers and wonky indication, but that's way too much wonk for one knob. :p

2 = 9 o'clock
8 = 3 o'clock

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This is definitely in line with the pot taper discussion because it directly relates to how we use/interpret/react to the knobs.

Having as close of a parity to the experience of using the real thing is very beneficial, especially when the underlying accuracy of the modelling is so good. It’s low hanging fruit as far as making the users feel the benefit of accurate modelling, because they’re simply using the models better.
 
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Come On Reaction GIF by MOODMAN
 
I have to go with Cliff’s logic on this one. The manufacturer might specify the range when they make their prototype but over the course of the production run the pots themselves might drift as they get different batches, causing the pots and knobs to be in different positions from unit to unit to get the same sound, even though they’re supposed to be identical. We correct that drift by turning the knobs until the units sound the same (and then pop off the knobs and reattach them if we’re so inclined to fix the cosmetic problem) but the fix was turning the knobs so the sound matched.

I don’t care whether the knob positions on the modeler match the reference amp or my amp either. Because of the production drift I know it’s unlikely they’d all be the same, but they’d be close enough and with a bit of fiddling I get what I like. Besides, if I was to want to die on this particular hill, then my banner would be make everything match, positions and ranges, colors and shapes of the panel and knobs and switches, entirely skeuomorphic. But it wouldn’t make the unit sound or behave any better and would burn a lot of development dollars which I’d rather see spent on other things.
 
Greg Ferguson said:
I have to go with Cliff’s logic on this one. The manufacturer might specify the range when they make their prototype but over the course of the production run the pots themselves might drift as they get different batches, causing the pots and knobs to be in different positions from unit to unit to get the same sound, even though they’re supposed to be identical. We correct that drift by turning the knobs until the units sound the same (and then pop off the knobs and reattach them if we’re so inclined to fix the cosmetic problem) but the fix was turning the knobs so the sound matched.

I don’t care whether the knob positions on the modeler match the reference amp or my amp either. Because of the production drift I know it’s unlikely they’d all be the same, but they’d be close enough and with a bit of fiddling I get what I like. Besides, if I was to want to die on this particular hill, then my banner would be make everything match, positions and ranges, colors and shapes of the panel and knobs and switches, entirely skeuomorphic. But it wouldn’t make the unit sound or behave any better and would burn a lot of development dollars which I’d rather see spent on other things.
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But it does makes sense that the position indicators of the knobs match between the hardware and the editor, I think.
 
It's hard to tell visually, but the editor's rotational range looks to be slightly smaller than the actual pot. Most pots have about 300 degrees of rotation. The knobs in the editor look to be closer to 270 degrees. That would explain the slight value offset.

The rotational tick marks are also different. The editor knob shows 13 tick marks about 22.5 degrees apart. An amp's 0 to 10 knob would have 11 tick marks 30 degrees apart.
 
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mr_fender said:
Even on a Tweed Deluxe, 9:00 should = 9:00 regardless of what the numbers are on those two knobs (amp vs editor).
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Yep.
Currently 9:00 will not sound like 9:00 even if the pot taper is modeled correctly.
I think most amp pots have 300 deg of rotation regardless of what the dial numbers say, why the weird choice of 276° in axe-edit?
 
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