it’s not that hard to forget it’s the original your copying and not a copy I just need to know which power tubes are being used and what pre amp tubes I can re make it"also my Angle Severe 2 went missing where can I get another one to load in"
I think this is the funniest thing I've ever read on this forum.
Oh yah I’ll try it thanksAre you saying you changed settings on the amp block on your preset?
When you load a new preset, select the ENGL amp models, they will be at stock settings and not the differences you made by editing the block on the preset.
Or if you want to change it to stock on the preset you happen to be on, just reset the amp block and there you go, it's back to normal.
if there isn't maybe someone could figure out how to make one
Boy oh boy do I hope one famous guitarist happens to use a TS-7, and then all the people are ready to pay 400 bucks for it. I remember when I bought a TS-7 just for the heck of it really for 20 bucks, it was a very strange experience comparing it to my Maxon OD808 and not being able to tell the difference in front of a high gain amp to save my life.
Not completely. The TS-10 isn't a "standard" Tube Screamer circuit as most clones are. It has an additional emitter follower driving the bypass circuit (which I don't think can make any difference to the tone), and runs with a different common bias voltage (which might just change something). It also has an additional resistor on the input to the clipping amp, which probably changes frequency response as well as reducing the overall gain available. Whether either of these is meaningful is worth asking. As the OP has said, we don't have a TS-10 model to compare directly with in the Axe FX, and you may have put everything else to bed, but I don't think the TS-10 was among them.We doing this “I can hear a difference between tube screamer variants” again?
I thought we put that to bed here?
I don't think the OP is saying his TS-10 is special, just that it isn't modelled in the Axe FX. I've never thought enough of this to care, despite having relied on TS-10s for much of the last 30 years. There might be a little more to it than a simple tone match. I'll try to have a play. You might well be right.If you think your TS-10 is special, tone match it with the unit and you'll find it's easily replicated with the 808 or Maxon models in the box.
That doesn't impact the drive tone.It has an additional emitter follower driving the bypass circuit
You can change the bias voltage on the diodes in the Fractal models.and runs with a different common bias voltage (which might just change something)
Send me one and I'll show you how indistinguishable it is from the others.but I don't think the TS-10 was among them
There isn't. And even then "little" is the operative word here. You're matching the component drift.There might be a little more to it than a simple tone match.
I amYou might well be right.
I've built enough TS-variants in the course of my lifetime now to feel smugly assured in my position that it's all just snakeoil and component drift.
This is excellent news (on the being able to verify their pretty much identical, save some part tolerance differences)!@iaresee, you are absolutely 100% incontrovertibly correct. I took a completely stock TS10 with JRC4558D op-amp and checked its match with the Valve Screamer VS9 model in the Axe FX III on FW 21.04.
Honestly, I'm trying to be funny but it's hard to be funny on the internet.Ian, your smug self-assurance is entirely warranted. There is absolutely no point in even considering a dedicated Axe-FX TS-10 model. Even if was an exact match to one of my stock production examples, it would be completely indistinguishable from the VS9 we already have.
The beauty of the Fractal world is we can tweak this stuff without breaking out a soldering iron! You can dial in just the right amount of sag or stiffness to suit your needs.The only other thing I think might make a very subtle difference is the bias point of the diodes. The stock VS9 model is set at 0.010, and it possibly feels a little closer to my TS-10 at 0.020. I say possibly, but this is when working with 2 drive tones that are beyond indistinguishable from one another audibly. It really is just a "feel" thing, and either very subtle, or completely psychosomatic on my part. Even with the diode bias set at zero, there is no way any blindfold test or comparison of clips would be able to tell the physical TS-10 pedal and the model apart.
It's fine Ian, I got it. I was trying to be funny in my reply - oh the irony! To be honest, if there are any parts tolerance issues beyond pot taper (and I think even that's probably down to them using a different make of pot) I cannot hear or feel them. I'm generally considered fussy about that kind of stuff.This is excellent news (on the being able to verify their pretty much identical, save some part tolerance differences)!
Honestly, I'm trying to be funny but it's hard to be funny on the internet.
Except the TS-10 isn't the Soundtank series - that was the TS-5. The XX-10 series was actually a metal bodied upgrade series for easier battery changes, from the top, with a flip door that couldn't be lost, and improved buffers and switching. They must have invested a bit in tooling for the unique metal case and moulded plastic parts too. XX-5 and XX-7 were the lower cost later versions, but the TS-10 was the ultimate "luxury" version in my mind.When you think about it, the TS10 matching the TS9 and what not this makes sense. With the Soundtank series, Ibanez was out to produce a lower cost alternative to their normal, metal-housing pedals. As much as they possibly could, they wanted the Soundtank versions to sound and behave the same way as their metal-housing counterparts.
It's almost like cheating! I miss getting the soldering iron out to try things. However when I think back on the days of waiting for components to arrive in the mail so I could try the latest tweak I'd heard about or thought of, and then spending evenings disassembling pedals and building strip-boards from scratch... A lot of the time I'd hear the "improvements" in the sound, but I was so invested in the time I'd spent that it's likely it would sound different to me whether there was any genuine difference or not. It at least leaves me with an internal mental "toolkit" of things to try in the Axe FX if a model doesn't sound quite how I had hoped it might.The beauty of the Fractal world is we can tweak this stuff without breaking out a soldering iron! You can dial in just the right amount of sag or stiffness to suit your needs.
Doh! Well that's my bad for mixing them up!Except the TS-10 isn't the Soundtank series - that was the TS-5. The XX-10 series was actually a metal bodied upgrade series for easier battery changes, from the top, with a flip door that couldn't be lost, and improved buffers and switching. They must have invested a bit in tooling for the unique metal case and moulded plastic parts too. XX-5 and XX-7 were the lower cost later versions, but the TS-10 was the ultimate "luxury" version in my mind.