Brit 800 2204 vs 2203 thoughts

Fellow 80’s Marshall heavy user 🫡 Thanks for sharing the cool story. The reason for messing around with some many of these tiny details (like guitar cables, meh, I know) is that I’m trying to recreate a certain sound made with exactly this amp (’77 2203 but it’s supposed to be same circuit) and a certain late 80’s cab. You can just lower the treble and play your guitar, but it just doesn’t sound the same to me with many of the high quality guitar cables I use. Kind of the same thing where Hendrix diehards say that the coily cable is a must.

I’ve kind of thought about using a modern hi-fi cable with these amps and it does make sense that these amps most probably were not designed with those in mind. YMMV but I think the high end is just too bright with too high of a guitar signal resonance peak, and it limits your use of the treble knob. The late 80’s cabs are also heavy on the treble. Back in the 80’s no-one except maybe audio scientists cared about instrument cable impedance and just used whatever gear they had. On stage and in studio cable runs could’ve been long, and of course there could be buffers in the signal path but… Again this really depends on what you’re looking from this amp. Hope I don’t sound like a madman, but it can happen when you’re chasing a certain sound for too long 😇
I might be weird, but I got my first Marshalls in '87/'88, and by then would ONLY use cables with Neutrik jacks and Klotz cable. If I was using long cable runs I always made sure I had an effects pedal or multi-fx unit (I was an early adopter of the Boss ME-5) to buffer the run and avoid losing too much top end. We cared... I was very lucky in the mid-90s, and landed a Hi-Watt lookalike cab with Pulsonic coned Celestion G12H30 75Hz speakers in it. It was always my favourite, and did a really good job of warming up the mids and controlling the treble.

[True story: I had asked a mate to check out a Marshall 2203 for me, and buy it if it seemed correct and road-worthy. He called me and said it seemed good, and the seller was offering a 4x12 with it for £50. I said I didn't have room for another 4x12. Seller said OK, £30. I said, no, still don't have room for that. The next day, my mate turns up with the 2203 that I still own, and the 4x12, which the seller had thrown in as a gift! Many years later, when comparing a few of my 4x12s with someone that knows 60's and 70's gear inside out, we wanted to know why that one sounded best. Sure enough, early 70's Celestion greenbacks, with heavy duty magnets and Pulsonic cones. Stupidly, sold that one for really good money at the time, but the speakers and cab handles would make many $1000s nowadays...]
I think the master volume sweet spot with 2203 is around 3.9 or at least that’s where it’s starting to sound the best. I feel like the 2203 model isn’t as bad with higher values as the real amp is. No wonder I’ve been liking the master volume higher with the 2204 as I’ve not tried the real counterpart. Also with enough volume the 2203 starts to compress in a really nice way and your effects kind of blend in nicely into the sound instead of sounding separate. Not sure you can hear it with bedroom volume that well, but in a room with the real amp you sure can.
Agreed, it's a unique experience, but it only really comes together at really quite high sound pressure levels. And it is so very loud at that point, even at an outdoor gig. I spent years only being able to use master volume between 2 and 4, but generally only 2.5, and it needs at least 3 for the amp to meld with the effects. Ended up using a 2203 through a Marshall Powerbrake attenuator a lot of the time. More recently, an audience member described one of my "effects" guitar tones as like "being landed on by a helicopter". That was with a little attenuation from the Powerbrake too!

Honest to god, I spent years trying to find a channel switching amp that would allow me some usable clean headroom, but still allow me the edge of breakup, crunch, "effected", and boosted lead tones of a 2203. Fractal was the only thing even remotely "good enough" until a few weeks ago. It now nails the whole thing completely. I am still slightly embarrassed at how easily @2112 got to where I needed to be. Turned out to be only a matter of weeks before Cliff made it easy for all of us!

Liam
 
Can you all clarify the 'Brit 800' is a new ish 800 offering correct? I don't keep up on releases as much as I should
 
So what is the best method to keep the hard rock vibe of the 800 but have good string clarity for the 'Kerrang' Marshall thing?
I saw Leon lowered the MV in his video
 
So what is the best method to keep the hard rock vibe of the 800 but have good string clarity for the 'Kerrang' Marshall thing?
I saw Leon lowered the MV in his video
Keep the MV down below 4, right down to 2.5-3 is worth trying. You can take the level of the Amp block up to compensate. Gain control needs adjusting to suit your guitar, but the amps are not really gain monsters. They work well with preamp gain turned up high enough to get the power amp clipping (4-5 for humbuckers, 6-7 for single coils), and then use a boost with plenty of mids to drive them over the edge. TS-808, TS9, etc. work really well for this.

Try to keep the Presence control up, and lower the Treble to control top end. Feels like they can "breathe" if you keep the Presence up around 5-6. Wind a load of Bass in for single coils, but keep it down below 5 for humbuckers in general. Be bold and put the tone controls in weird setting to suit your guitar. The tone stack does less than most would imagine, with big changes in settings having a relatively mild effect on the overall EQ.

And if in doubt, just turn it up a bit louder. They were never a bedroom amp, and only come into their own when competing with a loud drummer. The models feel similarly lacklustre unless they are moving a bit of air.

Liam
 
Keep the MV down below 4, right down to 2.5-3 is worth trying. You can take the level of the Amp block up to compensate. Gain control needs adjusting to suit your guitar, but the amps are not really gain monsters. They work well with preamp gain turned up high enough to get the power amp clipping (4-5 for humbuckers, 6-7 for single coils), and then use a boost with plenty of mids to drive them over the edge. TS-808, TS9, etc. work really well for this.

Try to keep the Presence control up, and lower the Treble to control top end. Feels like they can "breathe" if you keep the Presence up around 5-6. Wind a load of Bass in for single coils, but keep it down below 5 for humbuckers in general. Be bold and put the tone controls in weird setting to suit your guitar. The tone stack does less than most would imagine, with big changes in settings having a relatively mild effect on the overall EQ.

And if in doubt, just turn it up a bit louder. They were never a bedroom amp, and only come into their own when competing with a loud drummer. The models feel similarly lacklustre unless they are moving a bit of air.

Liam
Thanks for this. Completely changed how I dial in the 800 - and it sounds huge!
 
I stumbled upon this post from @York Audio about matching a ’77 JMP:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/axe-fx-iii-firmware-24-00-public-beta-1.200279/post-2498047
Next is the Marshall 2204 JMP/JCM 800 comparison. My amp has 6550 power amp tubes, so I changed the model's EL34s to the 6550 Svet on the power tubes page and changed the preamp tubes to ECC803S. Those are the only advanced parameters I changed. The amp and model settings are pretty much the same. This one was also surprising since vintage Marshalls can be wildly inconsistent.

There is a clip as well that I can’t link here. I’m pretty confident we don’t need another late 70’s or early 80’s JCM or JMP. Still wondering about wildly different sounding Plexi 2204 (’81 2204 JMP) model because it sounds so different, but I guess that’s how Marshall’s from this era just are. It’s darker sounding and less gainy. Does not clean as well when lowering guitar volume compared to the other JCM models as it has these ”ghost notes” (?) that I can’t seem to get rid of. Can’t remember the exact term or how to get rid of them, but this has been discussed here before.

So in theory using the new mid 80’s 2203 should be really close to a late 70’s 2203 JMP in stock, since the JCM 2204 is indistinguishable to the 2203 when either turning the negative feedback to 0 in both models or setting it to around 3.6 in the 2204 model to match the 2203. That’s amazing.
 
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Try to keep the Presence control up, and lower the Treble to control top end. Feels like they can "breathe" if you keep the Presence up around 5-6. Wind a load of Bass in for single coils, but keep it down below 5 for humbuckers in general. Be bold and put the tone controls in weird setting to suit your guitar. The tone stack does less than most would imagine, with big changes in settings having a relatively mild effect on the overall EQ.
Just a quick note prior FW 24 I used to crank up treble, presence and master volume with the new 2203 and 2204 models, but the improvements in speaker compression and amp interaction enabled me to lower these down. Also I’m able to cut down gain for about 0.5 with the latest update. I’m pretty sure I was also using a firmware where the negative feedback was off in the 2203 model, so that as well might’ve affected my sound. Updating to the latest FW is highly recommended.
 
Gold plate verb, a few other verbs and drives too I believe. I think the gapless switching is holding up these.
Probably , I suspect that is a major task , Cliff even said implementing it on the 3 was not easy . The good news is that it has been in Beta for a few weeks now , and if it is not released yet then the Beta guys are doing their job and catching things that would be a problem to us
The longer it takes ( although it tough) the more stable it will be
 
The current FM3 "Brit 800" model corresponds to the FW24 Axe-Fx III "Brit 800 2204 High" model.

@aens there's a thread here explaining the Plexi 2204 https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/plexi-2204-question.178464/

Essentially it's a 50W 1987X with a master volume.
Thanks a lot Leon, I must’ve missed that. What a pain to buy Marshall amps from this era since you can’t be entirely sure what’s inside the chassis…

Did you try to get the power type from AC to DC?
These switches off ghost notes on any amps that have them
Not in front of any of my Fractals for a few weeks, but this will most probably do the trick.
 
I stumbled upon this post from @York Audio about matching a ’77 JMP:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/axe-fx-iii-firmware-24-00-public-beta-1.200279/post-2498047


There is a clip as well that I can’t link here. I’m pretty confident we don’t need another late 70’s or early 80’s JCM or JMP. Still wondering about wildly different sounding Plexi 2204 (’81 2204 JMP) model because it sounds so different, but I guess that’s how Marshall’s from this era just are. It’s darker sounding and less gainy. Does not clean as well when lowering guitar volume compared to the other JCM models as it has these ”ghost notes” (?) that I can’t seem to get rid of. Can’t remember the exact term or how to get rid of them, but this has been discussed here before.

So in theory using the new mid 80’s 2203 should be really close to a late 70’s 2203 JMP in stock, since the JCM 2204 is indistinguishable to the 2203 when either turning the negative feedback to 0 in both models or setting it to around 3.6 in the 2204 model to match the 2203. That’s amazing.
My '77 JMP sounded kind of like the Plexi 2204 model when I first got it... dark, flubby, not much gain, etc. It sounded "off" to me, so I took it to my amp tech and told him to do whatever he needed to get it to sound like that amp is supposed to sound. He found that someone modded it slightly and he put it back to the original specs. It got tighter, brighter, and had a lot more gain.

If I remember correctly, the late 70's JMP and early 80's JCM 800 2204 are the same amp aside from the mustard caps used in the JMP, power amp tubes (JMP could come stock with 6550 or EL34), and the head shell cosmetic change on the JCM 800. I prefer the 6550s in that amp for a little thicker low end, more top end air, and less upper mid bark.

Just like the real amp, the Presence knob also affects the amount of gain. I like to set it between 9-10 and then tweak the Treble for the top end response. The Master Volume (to me) sounds best between 2-3, which is still incredibly loud on the real amp.
 
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