Any idea the value of this pot?

Can't really tell from the third pic, but it looks like there might be a treble-bleed installed on the volume pot. If so, that might be contributing to the brightness. You could try removing it or changing the value of the cap and/or resistor.

Another thought might be changing the volume pot to a 250ka. While this isn't what most people use for HSS, there isn't anything wrong with doing so.

I'd vote for changing the pickups, though, especially if you've got that set from a DK24. Worth a shot, at least, and won't cost you more than a little time if you don't like them in your Kiesel.
 
Churchhill said:
Can't really tell from the third pic, but it looks like there might be a treble-bleed installed on the volume pot. If so, that might be contributing to the brightness. You could try removing it or changing the value of the cap and/or resistor.
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Funny, I realized after I put it all back together and new strings on that I didn't check for the volume control and totally missed that until you mentioned it.

Interestingly, I last night I realized that the tone gets warmer as I turn the volume down, so if it is a treble bleed it's not doing a great job :)
 
A multimeter is your friend, my friend. They're pretty inexpensive these days too. It'll tell you right away what you're dealing with. You'd have to get a bit technical to figure out the taper though.
 
unix-guy said:
Any thoughts on why these pickups are so bright?

I watched a very well done video by Kiesel comparing all their pickups in the same guitar and they were nowhere near the brightness of mine and are described by Kiesel as "warm"...

Would there be a better choice for the cap than the 22nF to tame them?

I can turn the tone knob down to 5 or so and it's not bad but that seems extreme.
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The cap isn't what rolls off the top end until you get the knob almost to zero.

What happens is the lowered resistance of the tone pot loads the pickup more, damping the high treble resonance spike progressively more as the load impedance drops, then acting with the inductance of the pickup to form an RL lowpass filter. Only when you get the resistance of the tone pot super low or zero does the cap itself make a difference, as the cap is then able to act directly on the pickup and form an LC filter (well, an LCR filter with the volume pot's resistance, really).

All coil-based pickups have internal inter-winding capacitance formed between windings by the two turns of copper wire and the insulation between them, which creates the HF resonant peak - somewhere in the 2-8k region, generally.

The resistance of the volume and tone pots in parallel with the pickup output sets how much of a spike there is at that frequency.
 
Planta Fantasma said:
It's also my opinion that if you have a large company, it's easy to keep your employees from wiring the wrong pot if you don't order them at all.
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Almost everyone uses log (audio) for both and have for years. The overall value is the issues here though because the guitar is over bright. Pickup problem IMO and by problem I mean he doesn't like them not they are faulty.
 
Andy Eagle said:
IMG_6091.jpegIMG_6092.jpegAlmost everyone uses log (audio) for both and have for years. The overall value is the issues here though because the guitar is over bright. Pickup problem IMO and by problem I mean he doesn't like them not they are faulty.
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Ok, mystery solved but I'm a bit confused now.

The Tone pot is A500k and the Volume pot is B500k.

This sounds wrong or at least very atypical. Would you agree?


IMG_6091.jpegIMG_6092.jpeg

I have some other concerns but I'm going to put those into my other thread...

https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/npgd.200312/post-2515747
 
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unix-guy said:
Ok, mystery solved but I'm a bit confused now.

The Tone pot is A500k and the Volume pot is B500k.

This sounds wrong or at least very atypical. Would you agree?
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Not necessarily wrong - audio taper on volume is really up your preference - do you want it to clean up fast from 10-8 then choose an audio taper, otherwise linear.
 
unix-guy said:
Ok, mystery solved but I'm a bit confused now.

The Tone pot is A500k and the Volume pot is B500k.

This sounds wrong or at least very atypical. Would you agree?


View attachment 133950View attachment 133951

I have some other concerns but I'm going to put those into my other thread...

https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/npgd.200312/post-2515747
Click to expand...
You could probably swap them for the short term if you don'tdig the volume pot taper, but if there is adequate room, it is probably better to get full-size 24mm pots to upgrade from the 16mm dime-sized ones. Alsø wik: a no-load tone pot gives you a little extra 'zing' if you dime it, so if you want that, they are easy enough to get online....
 
unix-guy said:
I'm not typically a big volume pot twiddler... It seemed to be working ok. Also, I assume the cap is supposed to be a treble bleed but it did get darker when turning the volume down:
View attachment 133954
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180pF is not going to get real bright until the pot is turned down quite a bit. This will seem like turning it down "too far" based on the rotation angle on a linear pot. Prollyorta swap the tone and volume, as a linear tone can more easily do faux-wah rolls up from full down, and is the same when dimed, but the taper for the volume pot will be better, and the 180pF will start working higher on the pot's physical rotation due to the bigger chunk of resistance being spread across the top half of its rotation....
 
rcm78 said:
Might as well change the treble bleed too. Anderson uses a 680pf cap in parallel with a 150k resistor. Suhr uses the same network.
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Gotta find what works with your guitar cable and downstream gear. In my rig, 180pF on a 500k pot and 390pF on a 250k pot work well. YMMV, not applicable in all municipalities, void where prohibited by law, disclaim, disclaim, disclaim, etc. Sounds like he might want to leave a couple wires hanging out and try stuff until he finds what blows his skirt up.... :)
 
Joe Bfstplk said:
Gotta find what works with your guitar cable and downstream gear. In my rig, 180pF on a 500k pot and 390pF on a 250k pot work well. YMMV, not applicable in all municipalities, void where prohibited by law, disclaim, disclaim, disclaim, etc. Sounds like he might want to leave a couple wires hanging out and try stuff until he finds what blows his skirt up.... :)
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True but I’m pretty sure Unixguy likes his Andersons.
I’ve done a fair amount of trial and error with treble bleeds and have to admit the Suhr/Anderson values just work.
I do use a 001uf cap across the neck volume on my Lp and both PRS 594’s. I really like what it does with that volume rolled down a tiny bit.
 
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