Bug? LOUD snap/Crackle/Pop when changing patches

grumpops

Inspired
Ultra II MK XL
When switching to a gain patch (This never happened with the First Generation Ultra I was using since 2009)
Hit the switch to change channels and KAPPPPOW....going to a clean patch, obviously, doesn't do that.

Is it set up? Perhaps input gain isn't high enough and there's too much front end gain on the amp?
(I have no orange on the input display)
 
Really? Drop the MK..I was doing two things at the same time.
It's an FX II XL.
Hope that clarifies.
Don't remodel a house, make an old person's lunch, AND post here at the same time.
 
So had to drop ultra and mk ^^
Which firmware are you on?
Can you share 2 presets reproducing the pop when going from one to the other?
 
I can when I get to my desktop.
It's any high gain patch...switching TO a high gain patch.
Never experienced this before.
But I have noticed my guitar only gets three green LEDs on the input (which I believe is now sofware controlled)
I was wondering about low input gain resulting in the gain being up more than normal on the amps.
 
I don't think the instrument input level would have anything to do with it (there are are others out there whose guitars don't manage to light up all the leds at full input level settings and don't have this happen). The input level leds are just an indicator to make sure you don't overload/clip the analogue to digital converter - a low input reading there does not mean you're losing anything ...... the 'real' gain comes from all the levels in the blocks in the grid and preset output level afterwards. Your guitar supplies exactly the same level to both clean and gainy presets.

Are the gainier presets factory ones or some you've made yourself? If their CPU usage is up around the 92 percent and above then you can get crackles and weirdness (and usually a message flashes up in the green display window).

Are you using a footswitch to change presets? Front value dial? Axe-Edit?

Best bet is as already mentioned, post up a clean preset and one or two of the gainy presets that give probs when switching to them - and tell us exactly what's plugged into the AxeFX at the time.EG Guitar -> front input of AxeF , MFC into AxeFX, Axe-Edit on PC via USB to AxeFX and what monitoring you're using etc.
 
Using a midibuddy to change patches.
External midi control of blocks is a Roland FC300.
As I said...it's never been a problem till recently.
Didn't do it at all with the Ultra I I'd been using till last year when I got this.
Then about six months ago I started to notice it.
Took the midi buddy apart to make sure there were no cold solder joints on the switches.
Moved patches to different buttons to see if was specific to a midi controller...it wasn't.

Guitar > Axe input > Axe out to Fender Champion on clean channel.
Roland FC 300 and Midi Buddy control Axe (same control set up I've had since the first Axe)
 
Presets are factory. Only thing. in the amp block, I mess with is the tone stack (not much) and gain/master vol.
None are maxed. I tend to stay out of the pages with the guts of the amp..I've learned if I start messing with that I don't play..I tweak the buttons all day...lol So, I'm good with Cliff's work as it is and just add cho, dly, reverb, etc...
 
Quantum 6.03 is the O/S ver.
I'll move some stuff around Tomorrow so I can move the Ultra close enough to the computer for the Midi/USB cable.
It's after 1AM here so...off I go.
 
I'd take a stab and say you're probably overloading the front input of the Fender Champion due to the gain presets being too high in output.

The outputs of the AxeFX are line level and the Fender's jack input is I assume instrument level. If you have your presets levels set to be quite 'hot' and your output knob on the AxeFX is turned up too high you could be clipping the Fender's analogue to digital converter behind it's instrument input jack and it's maybe got a limiter kicking in after a short delay. Don't mean to sound like a snob .... but I wouldn't bank on the Fender's circuitry amd components on being 'high end' stuff.

From what I see about the Fender Champion, it doesn't seem to have an FX loop - if it did I'd be suggesting you plug the AxeFX into the FX return on the amp.

Seeing as you're using the front end of a guitar combo, ideally you'd want unity gain throughout the signal chain - IE plug your guitar into the amp at a clean/neutral setting and set the volume and then plug your guitar into the AxeFX with a preset with no blocks in the grid and preset level at 0dB and adjust the front output knob so that the guitar sounds just like it did when plugging direct into the amp. (This might even be the output knob full open)

Then you can add your amp block (and cab block if you use one) and adjust the amp block main level so it isn't adding any increase in volume from the amp. A clean amp model might be best to use first as it would be easiest to hear any unwanted input distortion/clipping with. An amp block adds gain to the signal by default so you will need to wind that back to maintain unity gain. This would be your highest volume preset setting (usually cleans and leads are quite near each other in volume) - so quieter presets will need levelled a bit lower on the AxeFX side.

Once you have all your presets levelled you then add volume when playing by using the main output volume of the amp - not the AxeFX.

The factory presets are more set up to use line level monitoring devices and likely will be too hot in output for the front end of a digital combo unless you have the output level front knob on the AxeFX set very low.

In my opinion, you'd be in a much better place if you had a guitar amp with a proper FX loop - then you could use the guitar amp's power amp section separately from it's preamp section and the input signal strength is much less of an issue as the FX return is likely to be line level rated. .... or use a 4 cable connection setup if you wanted.
 
Certain parameter changes can also cause pops. For example, if you change between 6 db per octave and 12 dB octave slope for the high and low cut in the cab block or the filter order in the filter block, you can sometimes get a pop or thump. I believe Cliff said it has something to do with the changing time constants of the different filter settings.
 
I had the same issue, Mark Day sorted mine, turned out the amp blocks need to be at mute not through when bypassed. sorted my issue out :) Thanks Mark.
 
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