Duo 34 Upgrade Project

bleujazz3

bleujazz3

Fractal Fanatic
Hi,

As part of my ongoing quest to improve the effectiveness of my Duo 34 board, some parts were outsourced from eBay and amazon that will hopefully add some features to my Duo 34.

The first addition will be removal of one of the longer access plates aside the Duo 34, and replacing it with a 3-hole access plate. One of the access holes will remain sealed; the outer 2 will house a USB adapter jack, and a ¼" locking TS adapter jack.

Although it'll be like matching up jacks and plates without first estimating which plate will be the preferred access point, my tech buddy and I will be almost literally "in the dark" as to how to proceed.

There are several factors we need to consider, including routing around the existing hard-wired external switches' cables, and the location of the nearest large Duo 34 access hole through which a ¼" cable will be fed.

The USB and ¼" TS jacks will attach to the access plate with screws provided with the plate. I'm hoping the screws will be long enough to secure the jacks to the access plate.

Once the project is complete, a new image of my completed board will be posted in the the Let's See Your FM9 Rigs thread. It may be necessary to swap out my current right angle > straight Mogami instrument cable with straight > straight cable, yet once the access plate is secured it will be possible to determine how the instrument cable will attach.

Images to follow...
 
Exterior / Interior Views. ProCraft ¼" TS Locking Jack & USB Connector.

Buyer Alert for the USB Connector: Although the rectangular USB attachment plate is designed to fit the Temple Audio 3-hole access plate, it's a square peg going into a round hole. The USB jack required sanding with metal sandpaper, and the Temple Audio 3-hole plate required routing a "key" region to allow the USB connector to fit through the round hole. Thankfully, I had a round metal file and some sandpaper that made short work of the aluminum access plate and the plastic USB connector.

My guitar tech buddy "took over the controls" so to speak and did the heavy lifting regards filing and sanding. Once the attachment screws lined up, they were secured. (Note to self: Add a dab of Loc-Tite on the attachment screws, unless folks think the screws will remain in place.)

I've yet to test drive the upgraded FM9, but plan on doing so later this week. The upside of the project was 1) it didn't cost a lot, 2) it provides a safer region where USB connections can be made directly instead of feeding a longer USB cable from computer to FM9 reverse side, and 3) the ProCraft ¼" locking jack securely holds an instrument cable that cannot be unplugged if someone were to kick the cable from its jack. The locking feature prevents disconnections from occurring (read: no audio drop-outs).

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I'm on the waitlist for my FM9, and have been researching a Duo 34 as a pedalboard solution. Interested to see how it plays out.

Quick question, do you know of any RCA plug adapters that are true RCA pass thru and NOT an internal solder connection? Wanting to have SPDIF connections accessible if I possibly can.
 
GuitarEC said:
I'm on the waitlist for my FM9, and have been researching a Duo 34 as a pedalboard solution. Interested to see how it plays out.

Quick question, do you know of any RCA plug adapters that are true RCA pass thru and NOT an internal solder connection? Wanting to have SPDIF connections accessible if I possibly can.
Click to expand...
Good question. I've not yet utilized SPDIF with my FM9. I'm not even sure what you're asking; try asking @mr_fender or @unix-guy. Both these guys have a better knowledge of electronics than myself.
 
So somebody trips over the cable and it's locked so it can't unplug. What happens then?

Seems like either it rips the wire out of the connector, or it pulls the whole thing it's plugged into around

I'd rather it DID unplug I think.
 
Hmm, not sure where you bought that USB jack from, but any standard "D" type panel jack will fit. I bought this one and just reversed the connectors so the "B" connector is towards the outside, and the "A" connector towards the inside. No sanding required.
Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Panel Mount Reversible USB GenderChanger Type AB Black Adapter
 

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Robberns said:
Hmm, not sure where you bought that USB jack from, but any standard "D" type panel jack will fit. I bought this one and just reversed the connectors so the "B" connector is towards the outside, and the "A" connector towards the inside. No sanding required.
Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Panel Mount Reversible USB GenderChanger Type AB Black Adapter
Click to expand...
Yup, it was from amazon, a D-type jack, but it had 2 flanges on either side that held the unit together. Required sanding both the connector and the access plate hole.

I'll check the Neutrik USB on amazon a few minutes...it will save some time and effort next time I might use a new Temple Audio access plate...
 
Robberns said:
Hmm, not sure where you bought that USB jack from, but any standard "D" type panel jack will fit. I bought this one and just reversed the connectors so the "B" connector is towards the outside, and the "A" connector towards the inside. No sanding required.
Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Panel Mount Reversible USB GenderChanger Type AB Black Adapter
Click to expand...
Gonna do it right this time...reordered a Temple Audio access plate from eBay and the Neutrik reversible USB. The one I had ordered originally was the QIANRENON USB B to A D Panel Mount Connector,USB 2.0 Data Connector Solderless Socket, Female to Female Converter Data Transfer Connectors for Audio Video.

THAT one has the flanges which do not fit the Temple Audio as a drop-in. Had I known that, I coulda saved about $45. But no, experience is the best teacher, as they say...one thing I've learned is that if you complain about life, they'll only make you pay more...
 
Dave Merrill said:
So somebody trips over the cable and it's locked so it can't unplug. What happens then?

Seems like either it rips the wire out of the connector, or it pulls the whole thing it's plugged into around

I'd rather it DID unplug I think.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I can understand how you might think this. The locking feature is designed to hold both the inside and outside plugs in place. I don't know if there were some kind of defeat mechanism that would allow only the inside locking jack to hold the plug.

I suppose the only advantage of the locking jacks are to prevent unwanted disconnect from your pedalboard. Especially the underside of the board. If the cable got kicked outwards or pulled unexpectedly, it still would remain connected.

I think the real hazard is letting someone close enough to your effects board where damage could occur. Believe you me, I'm a bit obsessive about letting others near my gear without an invitation. Call it an honest over-protective fear for things I own.

I can remember one time an older open-mic attendee once strode past me while I was tuning up, and his acoustic dinged my acoustic's upper bout ever so slightly. It put a little ½" crease in the finish. He didn't say a word, and I was like to myself, "Dude! Do you have any clue what you just did?" But no, I kept silent.

From that point on, I had learned my lesson and am still cautious letting others near my gear. To each his own. There are times when I've let people borrow my former effects board and amp, just so they don't make any major tweaks of things before my turn on stage. Just because my FM9 has not yet seen the stage yet, there is still a reason to be cautious with it.
 
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Robberns said:
Hmm, not sure where you bought that USB jack from, but any standard "D" type panel jack will fit. I bought this one and just reversed the connectors so the "B" connector is towards the outside, and the "A" connector towards the inside. No sanding required.
Neutrik NAUSB-W-B Panel Mount Reversible USB GenderChanger Type AB Black Adapter
Click to expand...
Saturday update:

Currently awaiting parts delivery from eBay & amazon. All should arrive by Wednesday 23rd latest. Currently awaiting notification from amazon that one of my parts due to arrive Monday has shipped. (No gots yet).

Will try standing the Duo 34 on its side an clamping it into my WorkMate Portable Bench. Will do so with caution; don't want the Duo 34 tipping out of its vise clamps onto the floor.

Will be replacing the Temple Audio Mini-Module Access Plate and the existing USB jack. (Images before and after will be provided the 23rd if parts delivery occurs as scheduled).
 
Sixstring said:
I have to wait for mini module punch plates and another power mod so I'm at a stand still :confused:.
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Yup. eBay was the only place I could find the punch plate as well. Thank God I won't need another plate after this one...I got in just when there were 3 remaining in stock. The plates were located in San Jose, so it shouldn't be that much of a wait for you...
 
bleujazz3 said:
Yup. eBay was the only place I could find the punch plate as well. Thank God I won't need another plate after this one...I got in just when there were 3 remaining in stock. The plates were located in San Jose, so it shouldn't be that much of a wait for you...
Click to expand...
None left, oh well hopefully they will restock quickly.
 
As promised, some images of the project.

1) The previous Temple Audio Mini Module Access Plate, with metal filed "key" to accommodate the previous QIANRENON USB B to A D Panel Mount Connector,USB 2.0 Data Connector. This USB connector was deemed less than desirable because of the modifications that were needed to allow the connector to seat correctly within the access plate.

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2) Seated Neutrik Reversible USB connector. The Neutrik connector required a #1 Phillips head screwdriver bit to loosen, reverse, and retighten the reversible USB connector within its housing. It proved daunting because the screw is a hex-star head, and my drill bit set didn't contain a bit small enough to work with this. The Phillips bit to the rescue... Also, the Neutrik plate holes required widening an ⅛" metal drill bit. The Temple Audio small black screws that originally held the module plates in place were a tad too large to fit thru the Neutrik access plate holes. A little ream and drill wobble solved the problem. Note that the red locking tab was positioned towards the center access hole. Reversal of this causes the locking tab to bind against the Duo panel edge, as visible in the image below. Better to position the locking tab towards the center.

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3) Interior view of the project. Note that the USB-A plug went into the associated Neutrik jack. The Neutrik arrived with the USB-A jack on the outside; a quick reversal solved this problem. Also, ProCraft ¼" locking TS/TRS jack. Connects to my StroboStomp directly above the board and the StroboStomp feeds the input of my FM9. Monoprice ¼" Gold right-angle 6" TS cable. Braided USB A>B (M/M) 2' cable. Mogami Gold Right > to Straight ¼" 10' Instrument Cable. The right angle ¼" cable connects to the exterior locking jack, and helps reduce the chance of someone dinging the side of the Duo 34.

WO7a8ip.jpg
 
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Dave Merrill said:
So somebody trips over the cable and it's locked so it can't unplug. What happens then?

Seems like either it rips the wire out of the connector, or it pulls the whole thing it's plugged into around

I'd rather it DID unplug I think.
Click to expand...
I think I solved the trip hazard problem for you...use a right angle plug at the input point with the Duo 34. If you need to, you can feed the connected cable up thru the handle onto the Duo 34 surface, away from kick or trip hazards. Otherwise, just allow the right angle plug cable to sit aside the Duo 34. Here's an image of what I'm saying....

es1tmn9.jpg


The only thing that really poses a kick/trip hazard is the USB, IEC, and XLR connections; but you'll likely not be using FM9-Edit at a gig anyway, so you're safe there. IEC and XLR connections you'll just need to be careful with.
 
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